Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Nov 25, 2006 21:49:55 GMT -6
I think I can sum-up what everyone has said: buy the best binonoculars that your wallet can afford. Like everything else, you get what you pay for --- but you also have to be practical depending on your own budget.
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Sept 2, 2007 12:58:54 GMT -6
Hard to say what he actually did. A deer at 500 yrds would certanly give you the time to dial in windage and elevations changes.
None the less, 500 yards is a long way for anyone to shoot a deer and elevation is only part of the game; dont forget windage. A 10 mph wind would require about 5 inches of correction. That doesnt seem like much but, for a deer and aiming at the shoulder or just behind it, being off 5 inches could be a gut shot or a non-lethal chest hit. Given the amount of swirling winds, angles etc, never underestimate the important of windage.
The average hunter has no business shooting at an animal 500 yards away..but, in most cases, the animal would be safe!
RD
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Sept 1, 2007 21:12:42 GMT -6
Where its zero'd determines how much elevation is needed -- but assuming a 100 yard zero, he's actually correct.
The .308 shooting a 168 gr boattail hollowpoint (2,700fps ), will require about 11.75 MOA at 500 yards, using a 100 yrds zero. In terms of bullet drop, that 59.9inches.
RD
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Oct 4, 2006 21:40:09 GMT -6
doubt that it is bobcats...I would guess more likely red fox. There was a series of mutilated house cats found in the Salt Lake City area. Everyone thought it was some kind of ritualistic sacrifices...folks jumped to all kind of crazy conclusions...was even in the local newspaper on numerous occasions. Finally, someone saw a red fox running across the yard with a cat it its mouth.
I have heard others state that the fox will clean up the local house cats.
ShockLung
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Apr 3, 2007 19:08:01 GMT -6
Steve and wiley
Interesting topic. I have often wondered about the utility of information in "older" books say, for example, Bill Nelson and others from that era. These men were giants in the history of coyote work -- and I mean no disrespect in the comments that follow.
I agree with Wiley that overall the construction and location of sets is pretty basic. However, the idea of coyote behavoir changing over the years is interesting. I mean, today, people are everywhere and their scent is everywhere. The avergae coyote today must be exceedingly unconcerned with the smell of humans...in the correct place, that is. So, Does this means coyotes have become less wary and suscpicious..and/or do our methods change with their behavior?
Look forward to comments
thanks
Randy
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Jan 13, 2007 18:30:22 GMT -6
Tman...how fine is the coal dust you use? and what do you think of the charcol idea?
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Jan 13, 2007 16:19:47 GMT -6
Do you think crushed charcol or simple charcol powder would work? It would be much easier to come by (for most) versus coal dust and you could crush it to the desired particle size that works best for your conditions.
In fact, charcol (powder form) could probably be purchased from a variety of industrial vendors and, therefore, avoid the step of crushing. My guess is that it woud also be lighter to carry compared to coal shale.
any thoughts?
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Jan 21, 2007 19:34:46 GMT -6
At first this surprised me, but we have all seen dogs consuming the dropping of other dogs. I doubt that such behavior is for sustenance but the eating of cow manure may be -- especially in tough times.
Anyone know about the nutritional content of manure?
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Jan 21, 2007 17:50:31 GMT -6
Very interesting post.
I would like to hear more about dairy cattle manure as a coyote attractant. Am I correct in assuming that this is a source of food? Have you seen them eat this? ..or are there other reasons why this is an attractant? Thanks
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Dec 20, 2006 21:17:01 GMT -6
excellent!!
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Dec 3, 2006 10:50:59 GMT -6
You cannot mechanically separate speed and power. The overall "power" of the springs is directly translated into the speed of the jaws. More powerful springs, faster trap speed.
Of course the benefit of this power is that you can bed and cover the trap with more dirt, sand, etc. Out west here where the wind never stops, you need alot of cover, yet want that trap to come up through the cover fast. Snow is also a factor.
I have seen a few very strong traps - that honestly, I thought were much too strong for most conditiones except snow. The rational for the strength was the use of waxed dirt and a really deep cover of this waxed dirt over the trap. Can't argue with that logic and the experience that went with it.
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Dec 3, 2006 10:36:14 GMT -6
I also shoot them in the head. For most land animals the mass of their brain is directly underneath the ears, (they lack the large frontal cortex of primates), so I aim just under the ear and try to get the bullet to pass ear-to-ear. I use .22 shorts or CB. Still bleeds alot but is a very quick dispatch. Lung shots will bleed as much than head shots.
For those that are not old enough to carry a rifle, the new barrel-break pellet rifles have sufficient velocity to do the job. I shot a large coon yesterday (was in a snare) with my .177 pellet rifle and he was dead in 30 secs. However, with pellet rifles, shot placement is much more important.
good luck
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Nov 12, 2006 10:18:18 GMT -6
BrianKRoberts....good info on your post.
How is your steel screen cut in terms of fitting under the loose jaw? Thats the real issue. If the screen is too stiff and under the loose jaw, downward pressure on the loose jaw can fire the trap and that could throw the canines foot out of striking range.
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Nov 11, 2006 15:39:49 GMT -6
Lots more guys on here with more experience than me...but... I have fooled around with steel screen (heavy black screen from OG) and had every problem you could imagine. I think it is a big pain in the ass, but if it is cut exactly correct, it wont buckle.
It needs to be cut exactly to fit tightly into the crotch of the jaws, so the jaws hold it down and flat.
I have found (for bridger 3s) that the screen should just touch the inside of the free jaw. I dont have the screen under the free jaw like some describe, because it will push the free jaw up. Also, with the stiff black stuff that OG sells, when the screen is completely under the free jaw, the damn trap constantly fires when I am trying to bed it.
I have switched to heavy waxed canvas and love it. I bought some really super heavy duck canvas on-line (the kind they make tarps out of; very cheap, too), dipped in wax and ready to go. They are lot easier to work with than steel, do the same thing and are as water-proof as most other methods. They dont provide the same degree of stiffness as screen, but with a heavy coat of wax it is very close. In my experience, you need to have the canvas in the hot wax for a minute or so, so it absorbs a good amount of wax. When I take them out, just give a good shake over your wax pot so the external waxdrips off.
They are great for using with the MJ-600 and traps of similar design,. When both jaws are held down, getting steel screen to work is frustrating.
Hope this helps
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Oct 13, 2006 19:41:17 GMT -6
Speaking of fast....has anyone tried the new Thompson snares with his BAD?
Its similar to the orginal Thompson lock but has channel instead of the top hole where the cable passes thru (simialr set up as the mini lock excpet with the classic Thompson shape). A shear pin holds the cable in the lock and offers virtually no resistance as the loop closes. With the loaded 1 x 19 cable they close quickly and the lock really stays tight.
They are a FAST closing snare!! I have always been a fan of "classic" designs and really like this new Thompson set up. Once they rust abit, I dip them in some Forumla One (brown) thats been diluted and it makes them close even better.
ShockLung
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Rod17
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Post by Rod17 on Sept 10, 2006 20:53:21 GMT -6
My neighbor was having a problem with one. Used cut up apples covered with honey, set trap at the base of the tree that he had been work on. Got him the first night the trap was set.
Luck..maybe?
ShockLung
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on May 16, 2007 19:37:50 GMT -6
we had a robin doing the same thing for 10-12 hours aday this spring. made a mess of the window and my porch. All day long, just fighting the window (of course his relfection in the window).
A well placed BB ended that problem
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Jan 6, 2007 13:09:17 GMT -6
I am looking for a lightweight, small caliber centerfire for fox and coyote. I know the .17 Remington is a great round but I dont reload (yet) and from what I have read, reloading is required for maximal performance.
Therefore, I am looking for something that has a reasonable availability of factory ammo. How fincky is the .22 hornet when it comes to factory ammo? whats the avialability of facotry ammo for this round?
I live in the mountains in NE Utah. Most shots would be well under 150 yards given the scrub oak, junipers etc etc.
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Jan 6, 2007 11:39:30 GMT -6
SgtWal
Have you used your .22Hornet on coyotes? What is your opinion on bullet size, and limits on range? What kind of exit hole?
We are all interested in minimizing pelt damage. The popularity of small caliber rifles has grown rapidly over the past few years, there is, collectively, much more epxerience regarding the performance of these calibers on coyotes. Many swear by the .17 Remington as good fur gun, while many claim too many lost wounded animal.
How does the 22 Hornet stack up performance wise with the .17 Remington?
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Rod17
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Posts: 229
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Post by Rod17 on Dec 4, 2006 17:00:50 GMT -6
I appreciate the feedback.
thanks
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