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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 4, 2010 8:31:00 GMT -6
All those type stakes are too large in diameter IMO. Too hard to drive and pull. My stakes are cut from 1/8th pipe 2" long. Much easier to drive , hold very well but pulling is still rough in some ground.Pulling the cable from the ferrule on pulling a line has always been a problem for me.I am working on a chain set up that should eliminate that problem but most likely increase the pulling tension due to surface area created by the chain.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 1, 2010 10:11:35 GMT -6
I am working on a better attachment system this winter on so called cable stakes that will hopefully make losing a disposable stake due to ferrule release a thing of the past when pulling a line.It will either come out without popping off or you will have to detach the trap from the staking system. No more failures in attachment points.I pop off 15-20% of my cable ferrule ends each season so this will save me some work and $$ but may increase my back pain as a result.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 1, 2010 7:36:56 GMT -6
Steve I dont think a pick axe would pull but the easy stakes that I have to pull in many conditons here and in the west where I trap.I am sure the handle would break before too long. I cant remove some cables with 2 men on a rough one at times and that one usually pops from the ferrule under that kind of force.My puller is a simple 1" thick wall tubing with a T bottom and 2 hooks with a reinforced belly angle welded on after years of pulling with it. It developed a belly and wasnt getting any better as the years and seasons moved on.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Nov 29, 2010 6:12:40 GMT -6
Is it the cable breaks or the ferrule releases the cable? I have never seen a cable break in my days from pulling and some I have had on for 25 years or more and still using them. The ferrule is usually the weak leak where the cable is crimped or hammered on.I lose some on every line pull. I just keep adding new ones as needed to each trap.
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perlite
Nov 28, 2010 16:36:34 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on Nov 28, 2010 16:36:34 GMT -6
Styrofoam beads from craft stores and foam packing sheets pre cut will work in the snow also. Have used both effectively. They all need to be pinned down or covered to support the cover in high wind situations.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Nov 26, 2010 18:15:56 GMT -6
I mix alot of it 50/50 with dry sifted dirt and use it straight in bedding.I transfer all for storage in the truck and for carry in sets. Have saved cat litter plastic containers and buckets with wide mouth lids with a rope tied to the handle for shoulder carrying to keep the hands free.Just carry what I need in the truck as far as containers for a few days. Then get more containers as needed.Has worked for me for a long time.Too much contamination potential in my truck in carrying a bale open. Had some blood spatter, broken and cracked lure and bait containers, urine leakage from catches etc get into the peat and open dirt containers many moons ago.Now I can throw and go again with things better protected as far as contaminates go. Things end upside down and thrown around when you arent expecting a badger hole and a dirt apron on the prairie or slamming on the brakes when you are caught gauking everywhere but looking at the road as you should be and somehow you unexplainably find yourself running over a hill.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Nov 25, 2010 15:25:58 GMT -6
I sift thru all of my bales then dry. I try to buy the premium always but still alot of rough stuff in the bale. I bet I get 5-10- gallon of what I deem unuseable sticks, bark and roots.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Oct 12, 2010 6:16:17 GMT -6
Beav you need to start learning how to take a few photos to post for us on here so we can have a little support with your descriptions and your trips to AK.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Oct 5, 2010 17:24:58 GMT -6
Just ordered a pair a while ago. They look good in the pics . Had a pair years ago till a dog got a hold of them a few years back and they became a chew toy before I knew they were missing. My old pair was all leather. Guess they had too much odor for Rover to pass up.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Oct 4, 2010 14:31:59 GMT -6
I tested and used JB weld epoxy many years ago. Sounded good on the package description but performance wise it didnt work for me on any application.Didnt work on an oil pan leak,radiator perferation or trap bonding. Maybe it will work better for you.I wont buy it again.Short term only holding ability.Cant beat a mig weld spot.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Aug 30, 2010 5:15:39 GMT -6
My traps are stock 2 coils with a set of jc connors taos springs added. Makes them plenty strong for my needs.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Aug 29, 2010 17:51:48 GMT -6
The last bags I bought were $29.00 per 50#.They were purchased in Kansas in February.Locally they charge alot more.They have a big supplier in St. Louis that freights them all over the country.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Aug 29, 2010 13:11:48 GMT -6
I have several dozen #2 bridger that I padded with Carlis Stevens pad kits. They have performed very well with cats and coyotes East and West. I imagine the commercial made are as good as the ones I have done myself without the work involved in putting them together.For the price they are a good trap and more economical then the MB's and not over powerful if only adding the conners taos springs.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jul 22, 2010 5:14:33 GMT -6
Just keep in mind most animals are opportunists by nature.
"Anything that stinks will catch a coyote. Some better than others but anything that stinks."
This quote is very true.
Most any unusual,different from the norm or something that suggests an odor/food potential will cause attention to be directed to that source of odor by most wildlife on the prowl. Varying degrees of response can certainly be expected. Some baits and combination odors in that bait including taint factors will influence the degree of reaction. Then it is a all matter of where you place it.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jul 12, 2010 18:45:57 GMT -6
I have used a mineral spirits bath. Soak them good, then stiff brush them and rinse.Then cook well in walnut hulls or logwood dye to deodorize the rest of the way. Pour off the top of the skim top water so as not to pull the traps back thru the impurities that will surface to the top.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jul 11, 2010 14:58:29 GMT -6
Bobcat and beaver are one and two in my book for meat baits. Taint increases odor push and interest. Finding a good taint for your basic needs is the key to a good bait. A good solution makes good on many types of meats.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 30, 2010 13:01:36 GMT -6
About 15 of us did the demo construction in about 4 hrs. One of the best demo sites I have seen but since I had a hand in its development I suppose there is some bias involved.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 28, 2010 6:32:02 GMT -6
Cattle find most any new odor in their grazing pastures attractive so finding the magic lure and bait isnt the answer. They all find smells interesting in a pasture. Once they find it you might as well move your set. Salt is a definite no no in pastures with cows and sheep until they find it you are ok but afterwards its a blow out,lick out area.
Like bob says finding some dozer piles or structure areas within your chosen set up area is your best opportunity to attempting to block them out. They are so strong and determined at times it turns out to be a stampeed area on that one return. Just takes too much time to find a protected spot in pasture/grazing areas.You may get a few nites without interference until they roam back thru the area again depending on whether you are trapping east or west areas.
Stacking bales or setting tight to round bales helps some but they still get at them sooner or later.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 27, 2010 17:48:01 GMT -6
Newt has been around a while and has accumulated considerable inventory over the years and replenishes what is sold as we all do as needed.I havent been to his place for a while but he has adequate room for a good operation imo.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 25, 2010 15:18:28 GMT -6
Newt is a one man show so he has to split time on the road trapping, shipping/packing orders and conventions. You happened to order from him when on the road with conventions and turtle trapping.
He will take care of things when he returns. I have the same happen to my business when I am on the road trapping or doing control work out of state. We make a living doing both trapping and lure sales. Newt doesnt have anyone to my knowledge shipping for him.
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