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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 1, 2010 15:26:20 GMT -6
I am always looking at traps and like to research them so I bought a few of these brdiger #2 offsets and added PIT to them and a few other extras to try out, the twist is instead of welding on the "keystock" I used JB weld "quick weld" looks like this will hold nicely and will keep the PIT dogs from getting bent up as much. Seems quicker than welding to me and sets up in 15 mins hard as a rock. Will test them out and see how they hold up. I ordered the PIT pans from F&T and they have 2 sizes for the 2&3 bridgers this is called the medium pan and centers better between the jaws of these #2's versus the "standard" 2&3 size PIT pans.
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Post by crichards on Oct 1, 2010 17:54:03 GMT -6
you must use rebar.......no 2 bridger is my go to trap
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 1, 2010 19:55:38 GMT -6
yes I do and also the chestnut ring is good for drags and even cable stakes, they are very versitile. But hard to break away from rebar all together. You can quick link chain and a drag and you keep good swivel action with this chain setup.
A larger jaw spread trap is my preferance for coyotes, but I want to test these out on a few different critters and see the performance compaired to my old stand by's. I like to keep things interesting and learning.
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Post by GaTrapper on Oct 2, 2010 17:59:56 GMT -6
I had a dozen #2s with the PITs on them but I just took them off. All of them sat way up above the jaws. Back to a regular nightlatched pan.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 2, 2010 22:10:20 GMT -6
ga trapper 2 things needed to get them below the jaws close the slop in the dog eye and bend the back frame forward, you can get them plenty low as with the PIT system they go off very quickly when the right pressure is applied and very little pan travel with them.
The built in tension makes the critter commit enough weight that I have had no issues with shallow catches on my #3 bridgers with them at all.
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Post by crichards on Oct 3, 2010 7:54:16 GMT -6
My main beef on posi-trip is the spring pin will move out of the groove and needs repositioned........but guess one could use the holddown clip JC uses on his taos springs
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 3, 2010 8:21:25 GMT -6
I never had much of an issue of the pin being moved out of the groove but all mine are 4 coiled traps, I have had coyotes knock them from one side or other but a quick tap with the hammer and things are square again, they take more abuse than a standard pan IMO. Plus easy to have pan tension and no monkeying around filing dogs or pans
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Post by freepop on Oct 3, 2010 10:07:43 GMT -6
That JB weld is pretty brittle, be interesting to see if it holds up.
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Post by robertw on Oct 3, 2010 17:49:34 GMT -6
I think it will be gone after one season if that trap see 3-4 catches.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 3, 2010 19:11:58 GMT -6
time will tell. I ain't out nothing if it doesn't hold.
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Post by freepop on Oct 3, 2010 19:15:37 GMT -6
Might be out a trap dog but you would've anyway. Remember to let us know if it works.
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Post by bfflobo on Oct 3, 2010 21:57:07 GMT -6
Think I would just go ahead and weld them NOW and save your self some troubles.
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cmr2
Demoman...
Posts: 115
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Post by cmr2 on Oct 4, 2010 0:24:31 GMT -6
the trouble will be cleaning it off to weld ,the arc don't like the J B at all
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 4, 2010 5:34:21 GMT -6
the point is to test things out and see if it works or not. if they break off I will use them as they came and buy replacements and weld the keystock on the next go round.
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Post by seldom on Oct 4, 2010 5:35:26 GMT -6
time will tell. I ain't out nothing if it doesn't hold. Nothing ventured, Nothing gained!
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 4, 2010 5:40:22 GMT -6
here is the ratings for this product . again I'm no enginner but looks strong enough to hold a trap dog together against a coyote. We shall see, I'm others guinea pig.
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 2100 Adhesion: 1800 Flex Strength: 7320 Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 Shrinkage: 0.0% Resistant to: 300° F
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Post by trappnman on Oct 4, 2010 7:58:25 GMT -6
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 2100 Adhesion: 1800 Flex Strength: 7320 Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 Shrinkage: 0.0% Resistant to: 300° F
under lab conditions- the strength of the bond is going to depend on a lot of things outside the lab.
BUT- on something like the dog, i'd guess it would work more than I think it wouldn't. the weakness of "instant" weldings etc is in movement- vibrations, etc are hard on it, but just chewing shouldn't loosen it-
keep us posted
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Post by Bob Jameson on Oct 4, 2010 14:31:59 GMT -6
I tested and used JB weld epoxy many years ago. Sounded good on the package description but performance wise it didnt work for me on any application.Didnt work on an oil pan leak,radiator perferation or trap bonding. Maybe it will work better for you.I wont buy it again.Short term only holding ability.Cant beat a mig weld spot.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Oct 4, 2010 16:03:07 GMT -6
I have used the waterproof varity on a galvinized pipe and it has held and leak proof going on 4 years now.
Exactly what I want to test Tman, all it has to do is keep the dog straight and take some chewing will dye/wax them and soon enough I will know.
Never said it would replace a mig weld and I wouldn't use it for jaw laminations or base plating but in this case I found it faster to mix and apply than channel locks and a mig weld on each dog "IF" it works out will be a time saver, "IF" not, oh well.
I tired moving the key stock with a vice grips, "no dice" held firmly in place, I will see after dying and waxing and use how long it will last for this application.
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Post by freepop on Oct 4, 2010 16:57:49 GMT -6
As with any epoxy, the materials should be rough sanded and then cleaned very good to get the best bang for your buck. Proper preparation will yeild a huge difference in results than basically no preparation at all. I've had it work quite good for me in some applications but as I indicated, I saw that it seemed to brittle for some applications.
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