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Post by Bob Jameson on Feb 1, 2011 17:24:22 GMT -6
A clean gland formula will have a lighter shade from tans to brown colors.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Feb 1, 2011 9:01:48 GMT -6
I dont know any serious live market trapper that uses a 4 coil trap for live market work.Conners add on springs if really needed for some larger jawed traps but in most cases that isnt needed with good pattern covering techniques.This topic has been hashed over and over.Rubber padded traps will give you the best and most consistent results, that combined with a short check time and efficient running.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 31, 2011 14:04:41 GMT -6
Some formulators dont clean or strip the feces from the glands prior to grinding.As a result the bacteria in the feces will work through out the gland blend and alter the natural cat odor. Some add foot pads and other parts to increase the volume of the glands also. All of the extras will influence the end result odor.
Clean handled glands formulated with clean cat urine will produce a brown colored gland lure, if it is black to grey it is usually a result of the above condition.If castor is added to a formula this can at times change the product color also as castor can range from brown to almost black at times.But the odor will only reflect the castor presence there will not be any sour odor.
Sour/contaminated urine combined with feces in a gland formula will only continue to manifest throughout the batch and hold that odor after being fixed and preserved.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 22, 2011 7:48:20 GMT -6
Would it be fair, acceptable and prudent to say I would take the pint of fox urine and a few drops of skunk added for my choice.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 21, 2011 14:58:33 GMT -6
In my experience you can use too much lure/odor at a set.I have seen it enough to believe that more is not better.
In the big picture we all must settle with what we know works best for us regardless of anothers experiences.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 21, 2011 13:41:59 GMT -6
Its the "prescence" after affect skunk scent that is most attractive in my opinion in a formula.Too sharp, or too much isnt as good as the subtle scent of skunk.Just enough to be a carrier but also just enough to be enticing.
Some like harsh odored lures I prefer a middle of the road amount in a hole or ground level placement lure. Now for LDC call lures etc to be suspended for use in cold temps,a good dose of essence mixed with some other essentials will fit the bill nicely.
I agree with CoonDuke.There are better things for canines under avg weather condition use.In very cold temps a moderate presence of skunk will hold more interest than a mega dose and have less walk byes,roll ons and refusals as a result of too much odor push.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 19, 2011 12:03:26 GMT -6
I havent used a bit and brace since the new technology of cordless drills came about at the turn of the century.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 19, 2011 11:38:17 GMT -6
I agree with Steve.I run as short of a pan travel as you can get with minimal travel prior to firing. Just some conditions of rain, filtration or freeze combinations particularly sand soils will prevent some firings of a trap. Useing peat as a buffering agent around and under the pan will most likely prevent 99% of your misfire problems caused as a result of pan restriction.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 17, 2011 13:15:14 GMT -6
I set as many walk thru and blind guided trail sets as the situation will allow. Then fill in the sides with wind assisted dirt holes/or cubbie type walk thrus.This combo allows for fewer misses less passes and more catches.Hole sets account for alot of cats but I have seen alot of walk byes also due to just being a cat.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 17, 2011 11:11:29 GMT -6
I believe I had my input to the use of screens a while back.In essence I worked with them for a part of a season and began a Kansas trapline using them for cats one winter. I had several misses,( throw outs ) toe catches and pull outs as a result of poor catches.
Never before that in my lifetime have I experienced such a poor result. And I am no spring chicken.LOL The explanation was easy when you evaluate the reason for this.Principally a screen makes the pan as large as the screen.So any pressure on the screen whether the foot is centered or not, or positioned away from the kill zone, the trap is fired. Thus resulting in poor catches and throw outs when the foot position is not just right.It isnt hard to figure this out once you analyze the increase in firing position area.
Traps are designed to have the pans configured in their specific positions for a reason, this is to allow for firing to occur when the foot is positioned properly to ensure a good jaw closure.Using a screen method only facilitates and promotes improper foot placement thus causing a higher probability of poor catches and throw outs.This has been my experience.
Some praise the screens, I curse them.I do just fine with my methods and have very few misses and marginal toe catches.I will stick to my guns on this one. Those that do well with that system I am glad that it works for you.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 17, 2011 10:31:40 GMT -6
Personally I dont recommend or use screens . Learn to work a system without them first then as you learn you can experiment with them to see if they are the direction you wish to go.My experiences with screens were not positive but some like them. Dont mean to confuse you or make something ,more difficult.Use one easy method and perfect it. Then you can experiment with other methods in the future.Too many concepts can only serve to complicate matters in some cases.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 17, 2011 10:25:58 GMT -6
Some would argue the point of wanting a faster closeing round jaw configuration.I also prefer square jaw design personally. But both work so the bottom line is getting the job done and using what you like best.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 17, 2011 8:34:38 GMT -6
Curiosity interest primarily.An odor that may represent a means to an end.Delusions of the potential promise of some bootie at the end of the rainbow etc. Bored with not much else better going on in their life at the time of intersecting or detecting the odor.Bottom line, CURIOSITY.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 16, 2011 22:04:11 GMT -6
Peat moss filled inside the jaws and under the pan will do just fine as a pan cover void fill material.I have done it for years. If you dont have or carry this fill material you will need to find another suitable material of your liking.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jan 4, 2011 18:31:08 GMT -6
Sure seems to help the confidence level when you use some pre conditioned traps. You put them where they run and the rest comes easy.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 31, 2010 17:31:55 GMT -6
If they are coon from dog hunters he will get knocked from the get go if they realize this.Call Calvin Calp in Hoisington Ks,he is an old timer and established fur buyer. He will tell you the scoop on the sale most likely and the prices out there. 620 653 7668
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 29, 2010 21:09:56 GMT -6
Looks like a burn mark or oil leak.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 28, 2010 14:21:14 GMT -6
You sure have a mess of fox tracks there. I havent seen that many fox tracks in the snow since 1978.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 28, 2010 13:26:53 GMT -6
thats alot of pee for a marking fox.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Dec 27, 2010 15:09:22 GMT -6
I dig up sod chunks and place/plant them in the water upside down so you can bed a trap just under the water level and lure them up with some Magnum Marsh Call or any good rat lure you may have.You can simulate mock feed beds or resting spots and clean out.Lure works very well in these areas in my experience.
You can make artificial shelves out of plywood and lathe and lay your traps in at the right water level etc. Pick your locations, particularly sheltered type areas if available if not you will have to improvise.
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