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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 15, 2014 19:34:23 GMT -6
Well OG can use nothing at all or waxed paper but each has its own issues. I know what Glen Sterling used at least years back and it wasn't nothing or waxed paper. Nothing at all depending on soil conditions is a risky deal IMO.The sterling has a micro short throw with proper tension, I have found that in the PIT pans as well, heavy tension with a fine tuned trigger like action. The PIT pans have 1/32 in of throw. But that coyote needs to be there and by that I mean 3.5-4 lbs of his weight needs to commit to get them to fire. I bought my first sterling Mj 600 used from Mel Fluth at M&M fur in 1991 and never looked back continued to build my inventory of these fine traps. Bought many of them at one point I owned close to 80 of them. Some with the old Calvary picket pins on them, white painted pans, the large OG modified ones etc. I found them to be a real eye opener and to think one day I would get to meet and take over the area Glen Sterling worked for a living and call him a friend? WOW. I still just smile about that in my life. Prior to that I was using junk comapred to sterlings and other traps I have used in the last 23 years. Everyone has a system I agree and mine just differs from some and others I know like the PIT pan system. Others like you and 1080 and Tman like the dog less traps with screen. My search was for a trap that parts are easy to get, check. easy to maintain pans check! Consistent pan tension check bullet proof build on trap Modified Bridger check. Fast and strong check. I always used sterlings for coyote trapping until someone else was buying traps They bought me some sterlings but more Bridgers due to price after working them up I started to notice advancements in catch rates and holds. It has been a process of 10 years but I feel I am where I need to be with the Bridgers worked up the way I do them at least for me. I make no bones about my use of coffee filters for many years, in my system they work very well. can take water they are made for that and my setting techniques keep them operating in everything except frozen in traps. Part of the reason I like a pan that is larger all the way around. The 3 montgomery is known by many to be a good coyote trap and the reason one will pay a good price "generally" for them but I won't bother looking for them as parts harder to come by and I have the same spread on a 3 Bridger, welded up with a 5/8" jaw when I am done makes for a great trap as well. I Get them with ease and the best selling coyote trap on the market so will be around for awhile.
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Post by bogio on Dec 15, 2014 21:21:02 GMT -6
Not sure without looking for it but think that I recall Glen using canvas or denim but I might be incorrect. I have been lucky in that I have never needed parts for one of my montys. Any damage, generally John Deere in nature, has been repairable by myself.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 16, 2014 6:22:21 GMT -6
Nice looking trap, just think of that pan extended out E-W out pass the levers A little but? if they added another 1" on the south end of the pan closer to the hole in the frame? Your lugging is like that found on the coyote cuff in a cast jaw.
What are the inside dimensions of that trap? Also pan size length versus width? Thanks.
PIT company came out with a S.S Round dog that are excellent coyotes just can't wreck them and are harder than the galvanized ones. I bought a few dozen of the galvanized to have on hand as they work well too really, the price was great as closed out as they are going to all SS round dogs not making the galvanized anymore in the round.
Just seen (4) 3 montgomery step ins on ebay starting at 55.00 plus 15 shipping on 4 traps.
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Post by bogio on Dec 17, 2014 5:55:41 GMT -6
I'll have to get a tape out on one to get the measurements but realize that once the screen cover slides in, the pan becomes everything you mentioned.
Jaw spread is going to lack that of the Bridger by a small amount but my catches are consistently deep, I see a fair amount of double foot catches and my misses are infrequent enough that it is not a concern to me.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 17, 2014 6:19:02 GMT -6
Bogio yes when you get a chance I am curious as to the dimensions of those traps.
I agree your stiff black screen in effect does what my PIT pans do, increase the kill area by enough to warrant such. Wd just have different ways of achieving the same results. My misses aren't a concern either.
yes I am thinking they are super close after I do my inside laminations to the same jaw spread? I just might have a tad more jaw to reach a tad higher up is all.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 17, 2014 10:03:18 GMT -6
the nice thing about screens, is that they eliminate the need for a pan cover or something under the pan.
I wish the montanas had a lower pan- I envy those with montys that do have that lower pan, so a heavier screen can be used
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 19, 2014 20:22:36 GMT -6
The screen is the pan cover, just a different material. Tman do your pans not,sit this low?
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Post by braveheart on Dec 20, 2014 5:19:06 GMT -6
I am 100% screen but use the no. 4 Victor Montgomery.I think if you would grind the casting burr on the inside of the off set jaw it would get the pan to sit lower yet.I have no lamination just off set and they cause almost no foot damage even on fox in a no. 4.I have them base plated and run 2-2 1/2 foot of chain on them.They lock up real good and are strong and fast for a 2 coil trap.Will someday 4 coil them with Taos coils from JC Conners.I got mine from Gerald.
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Post by bogio on Dec 22, 2014 20:57:45 GMT -6
Coyote dental floss!
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Post by trappnman on Dec 23, 2014 8:53:01 GMT -6
that's a nice looking coyote-
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 26, 2014 22:47:50 GMT -6
Hey Tman just for the fun of it here is what a Montana would look like with a PIT pan on it .
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Post by trappnman on Dec 27, 2014 8:23:32 GMT -6
I can't see how that is all that much bigger- looks like more empty space than with reg pan, or at least close enough
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 27, 2014 8:38:20 GMT -6
No way your Montana pan is covered up by the PIT pan , your increasing the kill area by more than you think. There is over 1/2" inch on each side E-W over the rectangular pan found on the Montana, a coyote with even a little guiding would be hard pressed to get a foot inside of the jaws without the trap firing period.
Dimensions of Montana pan 1 3/4" wide by 2 13/16 long.
Dimensions of PIT pan 3" wide and 3 7/16" long. When looking at the sq inches inside the jaw it is more than just a tad bit.
Your gaining 1 1/4" in width on a frame width of 5 14/16" that is a lot! 20 percent or so.
N-S your jaw width inside is 5 10/16" your gaining over 1/2" N-S over the Montana pan
Again just to show there are different ways to achieve the same results is all, do as you wish and works best for you.
But the increase kill area is there and makes this type of system work for me. Specially considering my 3 bridgers even have more sq area inside that your Montana's and I still have noticed a major difference over standard rectangular Bridger pans in efficiency.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 27, 2014 8:49:04 GMT -6
just not a fan-
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 27, 2014 8:59:59 GMT -6
That's fine I like them a lot. Notice how thick these pans are and double legged system makes them rock solid and the most consistent pan tension trap to trap i have found.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 27, 2014 9:03:21 GMT -6
I don't know how you could possibly have more consistent tension, than with dogless.
all I know, is once I went dogless, I never looked back-
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 27, 2014 11:53:31 GMT -6
Because your relying on your filed notch being the same, I am relying on the spring rate of my traps and I run my dogs straight no bend for 4 lbs of pan tension for coyotes and cats. The dogs are all the same 1/32" of throw. Super consistent. Not side wobble of the pan, which your stiff screen helps you, I rely on the double legged pan crimped to the spring pin, there is zero side wobble with that setup. fires like a gun trigger with zero creep. A 90 degree hook up.
Again just showing the difference between the two setups both doing the intended purpose.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 27, 2014 11:59:38 GMT -6
Tman for more reference to size this is a 3 Bridger pan which is larger of course than a 3 Montana pan and it shows the added kill area of the PIT pan versus even the larger 3 Bridger pan. Again when we talk sq inches inside the jaws this makes a difference for sure. Plus these pan are twice the thickness of a 3 Bridger pan very stout metal.
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Post by rionueces on Jan 5, 2015 19:49:45 GMT -6
I used waxed paper for awhile, but I went back to screens after seeing prints on either side of the pan. I use old Montgomery #4's and # 3 Montana's. I may get a few toe catches, but I don't see tracks inside the jaws anymore...
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Jan 5, 2015 20:06:12 GMT -6
exactly my point if those dogless traps had more east to west pan material the need for screen would be a smaller point. Each person has a system they tend to use,the rectangular narrow pan is then made better with the use of screen to enlarge the kill area somewhat, I choose to use a pan that doesn't allow the foot inside the jaws with weight to leave tracks either. The larger circle style pan that eats up more sq inches inside is my way of handling that issue. Yet to big not good either like the old o'gorman style pan on the sterling mj 600 more toe catches for sure.
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