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Post by trappnman on Aug 15, 2015 7:25:15 GMT -6
with obvious surface rust I wouldn't, more I think now for the aesthetics rather than worth.
but your point is valid insofar as, there is going to be rust EVEN IF YOU CANNOT SEE IT.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2015 9:24:47 GMT -6
with obvious surface rust I wouldn't, more I think now for the aesthetics rather than worth. but your point is valid insofar as, there is going to be rust EVEN IF YOU CANNOT SEE IT. That's right. The hot wax pulls the surface rust off the steel on immersion and then it is suspended in the molten wax. When the trap is removed from the wax there is rust particulate in the wax coating! I know because I've done it and was extremely unhappy with my molten wax having become "orange-colored" wax!! Orange-colored wax is rust-colored wax, if the wax is rust colored then there has to be rust particulate suspended in the wax to give it that color. If rust is suspended in the molten wax then your waxed trap has to have rust particulate in the coating!! Are the rust particulate and the gas it releases sealed in OR is the wax itself smell of those very gases since wax is believed to absorb odors so readily?? When I removed the wax block from my pot there was particulate that had settled to the bottom BUT the wax was ORANGE! It could only become that color if rust particulate was still suspended in the solid!! So, someone reading this thread might wonder how does this rust business relate to whether or not dye contains tannins or if it's just a coloring agent? If the logwood dye is only a coloring agent your wax will become black BUT what is black is still rust except you've changed the color AND will still smell like rust! If there are tannins in the dye, your wax will turn black BUT the rust has been chemically altered to a neutral compound that is no longer rust. If the compound is no longer rust, there is no rust odor!!! I find it interesting that most folks reading this thread don't seem by their silence, care or want to think very deep about the fact or fiction of decades of perpetuated reasoning of waxing and dying. We've all heard how you shouldn't have your traps close to just about anything and everything that has an odor to avoid contamination of the wax on the trap because wax absorbs odor like a sponge. Yet, no problem waxing a rusting trap!! So they must think wax seals AND absorbs at the same time?? If your waxed trap smells of something(rust, urine, oak leaves, pine boughs, etc.) and you bury it in a trap bed, why wouldn't the wax absorb the odor of dirt just as readily?? Come on now, you can't have it both ways!! I know this was mentioned a couple posts ago about not waxing traps. My testimony to this is that from 1970 -1987 I NEVER waxed a fox trap and I always used logwood dye MIXED with sumac.
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Post by aaroncurtis on Aug 15, 2015 20:30:42 GMT -6
In the past yes I would of been comfortable just waxing the rusted traps......now I wouldn't be so inclined. I can't recall ever waxing traps that had not been dyed first, its possible I did somewhere along the line and just don't recall it. But after thinking more about this I wouldn't wax rusted traps that were not dyed at this point.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2015 17:27:27 GMT -6
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Post by trappnman on Sept 16, 2015 8:45:40 GMT -6
I talked to Gerald this weekend, and asked him about the specs of the red dye. He didn't have a sheet with him- but he could tell me this- the red dye IS imported from Argentina. so that would make you think it IS still a logwood product
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Sept 17, 2015 17:19:00 GMT -6
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Post by springhillranch on Dec 22, 2018 16:06:56 GMT -6
tannic acid is posionous to horses...fall oak leaf has to be cleaned from standing water tanks as tannic acid builds in strength as the leafs degrade in the water...and turns the bottom of the tanks black.
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