|
Post by BK on Aug 12, 2006 16:33:19 GMT -6
Again ,............no mater who you were or how set you were in your ways,........... it made you blink at some point.
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Aug 12, 2006 16:45:22 GMT -6
Not me BK- I'm a know it all, don't cha know...
agreed. It WAS the definitive mink book.
|
|
|
Post by BK on Aug 12, 2006 19:13:08 GMT -6
Perhaps many of us couldn't agree on certain aspects or parts of the thread, or parts didn't necessarily pertain to your personal trapline,....... but as I remember no parts had to be deleted, nor did anyone get nasty.
Given the length of the thread and the passion poured into it that says a lot,....... let alone the solid information it contained.
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Aug 12, 2006 19:22:44 GMT -6
Agreed!
|
|
|
Post by fishadict on Aug 12, 2006 21:56:13 GMT -6
Ok, Steve, which one was it? On here or Trapperman?
fa
|
|
|
Post by oldmink on Aug 13, 2006 4:43:04 GMT -6
We are talking about the one on Trapperman. It was lost when that site crashed a couple of years ago.
|
|
|
Post by markymark on Aug 13, 2006 6:36:12 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by seldom on Aug 13, 2006 7:20:13 GMT -6
Yes Fishadict, as OldMink mentioned, it was on Trapperman and a precursor to the group's T&PC article. While the thread was going I made a hard copy of specific segments that pertained to my observations and conditions but that’s all. The thread started on about 1/27/03 and finished around 1/31/03. Tman, OldMink, Minker, BK, & Computer Hater were major contributors. The thread started off on BE’s and then just kind of exploded. Tman even showed off his artistic abilities with a couple of colored sketches. ;D I remember emailing Steve a year or two ago and mentioning this particular thread and wondering how many folks that were following it actually realized just how important it was at the time and took advantage of the info being offered.
|
|
|
Post by thebeav2 on Aug 13, 2006 7:29:48 GMT -6
markymark With your last post you have just become my hero. I couldn't agree more.
|
|
|
Post by markymark on Aug 13, 2006 8:05:54 GMT -6
Well Gary I know we always don't see eye to eye on modified traps, but now we have broken bread on this issue. Hal is a detriment to trapping. I advise all trappers to stay away from him and not even give him the time of day. He is not in it for trappers as a whole, just what he feels is right for the rest of the community. So I will say this one more time, please do not buy a thing from this wingnut. I'd put him in the same corner as Hillary Clinton. On a lighter note I do use machine chain on my mink traps. ;D
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Aug 13, 2006 8:16:30 GMT -6
we agree yet on another thing Marky
|
|
|
Post by thebeav2 on Aug 13, 2006 8:43:37 GMT -6
And the Mutual admiration society grows with leaps and bounds LMAO
Gary
|
|
|
Post by markymark on Aug 13, 2006 10:12:41 GMT -6
we agree yet on another thing Marky
What on laminated, baseplated, machine chained Northwoods 1.5's round jaws for mink?? I knew you would see the light someday.
|
|
|
Post by fishadict on Aug 13, 2006 11:13:45 GMT -6
I re-checked my old computer files and did not save that one. Seldom, would you send me the pieces that you saved?
I did copy a couple of other ones and put them on Tman. They are in the Water Archives.
Marky - why do you find it necessary to do lams, base plates, and machine chain to a mink trap? I am curious. I find the 1.5 Duke coil, 1.5 Victor coil, and the 1.5 Victor LS to be about perfect without those mods.
fa
|
|
|
Post by musher on Aug 13, 2006 11:47:39 GMT -6
I bought a dozen 110 bridgers yesterday. I was going to do the carriage bolt thing. Since then several trappers have told me they didn't like them modified that way. No real reason. Before I start drilling rivets on new traps what do you people think?
|
|
|
Post by BK on Aug 13, 2006 12:00:02 GMT -6
Don't fix what ain't broke,................ I'm not at all sure if you turn that trap with the spring up for example you haven't lost some of the deterrent to avoid mink going around your trap, dry or underwater.
|
|
|
Post by coyotewhisperer on Aug 13, 2006 12:26:35 GMT -6
I saw in the new cumberlands mag that they have a new support for the 110 like the carriage bolt but with a bend in it so you can set the 110 the normal way. Looked like the ticket for me I'm going to try a dozen. If you bought a really long carriage bolt and put it in a press that might work too.
Jeff
|
|
|
Post by BK on Aug 13, 2006 13:00:26 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by markymark on Aug 13, 2006 14:03:29 GMT -6
Marky - why do you find it necessary to do lams, base plates, and machine chain to a mink trap? I am curious.
Do I feel it's necessary, IDUNNO I don't think I have set many un-modded traps in the last 15 years. The ones that I did for mink this past fall were Duke 1.5 give aways and gave I did. So I guess in a few spots I will set the Duke 1.5's once again give aways. It can't hurt if you do have a modded trap, and the Duke 1.5 can be a nice trap when laminated, with a new chain setup. Mr. Gappa sells machine chain #2 for a relatively reasonable price. I like longer chains so when they are tossed in a barrel they are allot easier to pull out than twist link.
As for the Bolt in the 110 don't do it. I did up a few 110's like that when the ground was soft. But when I went to pull some of these traps and the ground was frozen you'll need a bolt cutter or bend it back and forth to get it out.
|
|
|
Post by seldom on Aug 13, 2006 17:24:25 GMT -6
Musher, ALL of my 110's and most of my 160's are modified with something that has replaced the outside rivet. The majority of my 110's have a 1/4" bolt welded to the end of a 10" piece of 3/8" rerod, nutted and cap-welded. These I use horizontally in my BE's and vertically in rat runs. Since I always use a stick stabilizer, I don't belive I've had trouble with "go-arounds" with either setup.
The balance of my 110's have the same 1/4" bolt but it's welded to the side of a 3/8" redod stake. This configuration allows me to use the trap only in the horizontal position, with triggers pointed up or down, and allows for whatever ground clearance I want for trail sets.
My rerod seldom freezes in due to the warmer earth near the waterways I'm trapping, plus I've usually got snow cover that helps keep the banks insulated and frost shallow.
What I've found that works well for me in my part of the country may not work for others elsewhere.
|
|