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Post by trappnman on Aug 10, 2006 7:24:56 GMT -6
What does tighten my jaws is he spit out some BAD information, that in itself can set an aspiring young trapper back.
you mentioned this before, and I've asked you then- enumerate. I've seen nothing in the book I would consider BAD info to the point it would hurt any chances of success for an aspireing mionk trappers.
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Post by BK on Aug 10, 2006 8:44:31 GMT -6
Steve, I gave my copy away several years ago under the condition no young trappers would read it, so I'm at a little disadvantage here as I can't leaf through it,........... Once I figured out the guy didn't have the miles or the mink to back up what he was pushing I tried not to "learn" from the book. I do recall this his Conibear sets, they were a joke,.......... His take on mink boxes was out of some book,.......(I have one that really does work),If you wish to jump through those hoops. Wishbone triggers,........... where are whey sold TODAY ?................(There's a reason for that) How many elbow sets did you make last season?............................(I thought so) And of coarse the Mr. Twisters on the trap pan, :-*LOL You made a lot of those sets last year too,.............? The wife is gonna eat spagettios I couldn't catch a second trout that would have had red flesh, (she's picky)
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Post by Steve Gappa on Aug 10, 2006 8:56:34 GMT -6
yet- many mink are taken each year by elbows, there was just a thread here about rubber crawfish (and to be fair, Rich said he didn't use them, but others had), don't know aobut his conibear sets being jokes, but I set about the same was as do a lot of the mink trappers out there, wishbone trigger kits are sold at many dealrers, and just the past day I responded to a thread where people were advocating such triggers (I feel they are worthless)..
Some advice might be old news to us, but any book contains that. I just don't see any information in the book that will hurt or decrease a catch, and many, many things that will help it.
The real value of this book is its scope. Something no other mink book I've ever seen tried to duplicate.
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Post by oldmink on Aug 10, 2006 9:01:13 GMT -6
Gee Bob, I could send you my copy but first I'd have to move the plant. [yup, it's still there]
Look, some guys will always complicate things. Take anything simple and they will find a way to turn it into WWIII.
Case in point, bodygrip traps.
A very simple, straightforward trap. All you got to do is adjust the trigger wires and you are good to go.
But no. Some guys got to be modifying the trigger and filing here and there, filing, filing everywhere all in the name of improving the trap. It pains me to say I shouldn't be surprised if some swivel and rechain these traps too. I hope not, but I know how some guys are. Like the guy who puts #2 machine weld extension chains on his mink foothold traps. Wow! We all know how powerful mink are.
Hello? What's with this? The manufacturer knew what he was doing when he made the trap and it's good to go.
When I bought those 20 dozen BMIs the other year all I ever did was adjust the trigger wires a bit as I set them and that was it. I had a very good year that year. A very good year.
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Post by Steve Gappa on Aug 10, 2006 9:09:57 GMT -6
is Rich the only guy that tinkers with conibears/ not according to the threads. My advice on a recent forum post- set em and go.
but tinkering ISN'T going to give you less of a catch...
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Post by musher on Aug 10, 2006 9:22:10 GMT -6
Shaggy: Don't boil off the wax. If a trap is tough to set just heat up the contact points with a lighter.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 10, 2006 9:24:01 GMT -6
I think I should write a mink book.
It would be a one pager
Cover common sets,blind sets and pocket sets.
"And the formula". Have a trappable mink population
Have a minimum of 500 traps in the water at all times
Have 5 loops: Move traps on the 6th and 7th days
Spend at least 3 months In the water.
Be dedicated,leave home in the dark and come home In the dark.
If you follow these simple Instructions you can catch 300+ mink
I know It can be done.
Gary
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Post by BK on Aug 10, 2006 9:29:35 GMT -6
Steve that fat boy is a wanna be,..........hell I heard he's giving instructions? We all have just so much time and effort we can devote to catching mink. I could more than likely catch a mink with a piece of plastic on the trap pan. But let's get real here,a young trapper would be best served by listening to you,........ Gerald Schmidt, Ken Smyth, OldMink, NL., JL, The Beav. myself, and who knows how the hell many more better than all of us. And he's beating on HIS chest? Give me a break,..............where the heck is Bob Jamison when you need him?
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Post by trappnman on Aug 10, 2006 9:36:35 GMT -6
I simply cannot see what the debate here is.
I could care less about Rich Falers mink prowness.
I believe his book is the best mink book out there- it trulyi s a mink encyclopedia.
I've offer to deate any page as to its merits in mink trapping.
Yes, Geralds book is a good book- and his video is very good- but it doesn't have the in depth coverage that the Mink Book does.
Beav over simplfies a tad- and he knows it.
Mink mystify the begining mink trapper. Remember when mink were a throphy when you were a beginning trapper? many, many, many water trappers take 2-6 mink a year and are awed by it.
Now granted, I was a mink trappers of 40 years before I read the book- so te crawfish and stuff like that I let slide- just like tin foil on a coon set- that stuff works but such low % why bother.
but his line management, his set up on lines, his ideas of mink theroy- is all right on.
no matter if it was original thinking or parroting.
A beginning trapper could learn much from the book.
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Post by BK on Aug 10, 2006 9:58:44 GMT -6
They say Hemingway was high most of the time he wrote.
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Post by oldmink on Aug 10, 2006 10:38:33 GMT -6
How many times have I posted on message boards that sets, in themselves. [for the most part] are meaningless?
It doesn't matter one iota how you make a pocket set, blind set or BE set, make it at the wrong place and you aren't gong to catch diddler's squat.
When I want to judge a mink man's prowess, I want to know what he knows about mink. Not about sets. Even a guy who never gets closer to a mink than the computer keyboard can easily learn about mink sets. But the mink himself is another mattter. Information gleaned from years and years of getting wet boots, crawling through weed and briar patches and being attacked by swarms of mosquitos while looking for tracks and droppings.
Even when you find tracks, then what? Why was he there? What was he probably looking for? Why not over there? A successful minker can answer those questions.
Think like a mink isn't just a cute saying.
The more I study mink the easier they are to trap.
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Post by shagnasty on Aug 10, 2006 11:40:22 GMT -6
one idea i have is finding the nastiest trash pile or blow down, or cut up in the bank as close to the road/vehicle as possible at each stop, my guess is if any mink running that waterway, he will investigate this area whether to feed, hide, rest, or look for a female, also thinking dry ditches that cut the main road may warrant blind sets as too much trash would likely be caught in baited or lured sets.
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Post by lumberjack on Aug 10, 2006 11:52:32 GMT -6
Oldmink I tend to disagree with some of what you are saying. About the only requirement I look for in a mink pocket is ease of digging, which isnt always easy to find when making pocket sets in my area. If I knew mink that well, I wouldnt need to make a pocket set, I would blind set him, and catch him the 1st night. Some times I catch one on a bank top trail, and next week catch one at a pocket 3 feet below- which was the "right " spot ? I rely on a pocket to pull him in at least a little distance, anyhow. I believe a baited pocket set on any stream worthy of a mink population will be found by a mink if enough time is allowed. When I see mink tracks in the mud I can honestly say I have no idea what he is doing there, or where he is going, can anyone?? I feel after 30 years of trapping mink, it isnt really any easier, I just think I work harder at it. and have a better line out.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 10, 2006 12:02:54 GMT -6
Beav over simplfies a tad- and he knows it.
And now I'm being called simple LMAO. Where will It end.
Setting and mainting 500 traps Is far from simple but I know where your going.
Gary
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Post by oldmink on Aug 10, 2006 12:06:39 GMT -6
Lumberjack, that is a huge variable. What passes for a good mink population in southcentral Pennsylvania might be scoffed at in western Minnesota.
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Post by shagnasty on Aug 10, 2006 12:28:36 GMT -6
baited pockets here will get plugged with coon unless super cold and that is not the norm here. coon run about all year except for our cold snaps which usually only last for a few days to a week at a time, but have lasted for weeks, but that is unusual.
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Post by oldmink on Aug 10, 2006 12:46:49 GMT -6
Are you talking about mink traps here, Gary?
If so, to catch how many mink?
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Post by lumberjack on Aug 10, 2006 13:25:24 GMT -6
OK, heres some questions, We have all had mink sets connect the 1st night-no matter what the set type. Weve all had sets that sat 3 weeks to 8 weeks and finally make a catch the day we pull. Same trapper, did he loose his mojo on the set that took forever or is that just how mink trapping is? Was that set that took forever to connect a good set?- if not,how do you know when to move it? Would moving it 20-30 yards one way or the other have helped? If so, when do you move it? the 3rd day, the 5th day, the 2nd week? What is the criteria of "knowing" your mink entail?- When do you know you know mink? Catching him within a certain time limit? Knowing where he is going? Certain catch numbers per year?
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 10, 2006 14:33:15 GMT -6
500 traps 300+ mink.
5 loops 100 traps or so In each loop. Two days to move traps to other locations. Lines were laid out well before the season, traps were stashed along the route. Some were even placed at set locations. You did what you had to do. I was very blessed that I had very little competition.
Mink were worth big money In the late 70s and early 80s and gas was cheap. It would be tougher now since our check laws have changed. Back then If the trap had dew on It you didn't have to check It. But maybe not, now our season runs through Feb.
Haven't set a mink trap in many years but thinking about running a mink and rat line this Dec, might just be fun. 200 traps and 3 day checks. BK and I have been talking about bottom edge sets and I'm going to give some a try, but most sets will be blind sets a lot less coon that way, rats will be welcome. We are blessed with 100s of water ways and I doubt there would be much competition.
I have good friends that still break the 300 mark each year. I haven't got the drive to do that again. But 40 would be nice.
Gary
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Post by trappnman on Aug 10, 2006 14:50:06 GMT -6
mink trapping is like fishing. You can go out 4-5 days and have only a couple days where you catch fish- but your daily average is high. So to speak.
We have all had mink sets connect the 1st night-no matter what the set type. Weve all had sets that sat 3 weeks to 8 weeks and finally make a catch the day we pull. Same trapper, did he loose his mojo on the set that took forever or is that just how mink trapping is?
Thats just how mink trapping is. I've had sets sit for weeks and take 2-3 mink in subsequent checks.
You could probably run 2/3 less traps and make 2/3 the same catch- but its those extra traps that make the difference.
Was that set that took forever to connect a good set?- if not,how do you know when to move it? Would moving it 20-30 yards one way or the other have helped? If so, when do you move it? the 3rd day, the 5th day, the 2nd week?
I never move a mink set once set unless weather conditions force it. If its a goodl ocation, and I assume it was or you would not have set the trap there- leave it there. You find a better spot of 2 nearby- set another trap or two. Thats how mink trappers get out 200-300 mink sets.
Wouldm oving it 20-30 yards have helped? Perhaps. I've seen it happen more than once. But o nsome creeks, one spot is as good as another- always assume you are using structure and interest points that you know will push the mink to the creeks.
Yes- mink run the tops and sides of the banks- but there are certain, and to me obvious freatures, interest points, whatever- that funnell most mink to certain points.
THATS blind setting.
What is the criteria of "knowing" your mink entail?- When do you know you know mink? Catching him within a certain time limit? Knowing where he is going? Certain catch numbers per year?
As any criteria scoring system, its hard to quantify.
Mink knowledge ranks righht up there. Someone comes ot a creek with me and says- "right there" and it IS right there- I know he knows mink. And I firmly believe te more oyu know mink- and know those places and reasons why he hits the water or cuts overland- the better minker you will be.
Numbers are hard to tell. Guys on the flats and the priares sometimes have huge mink populations- where 500-900 mink years are if not common, obtainable on a regular basis. Here 100+ mink is good. Some places 50 mink are good.
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