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Post by rn on Apr 26, 2007 10:15:16 GMT -6
This question has probably been asked before, and I realize that while snaring one can not totally rule out snaring a deer.
What are some of the methods used to miss deer, other than "Just dont set deer trails".
We have a small deer here in MS and looking at the Breakaway devices available, it appears to me that 220 lbs and above would be to stout to allow a whitetail deer to escape.
I ask because I have only snared beaver and this season I may have need to snare racoon and bobcat on beaver damns and trails.
Also due to hunting dogs, house dogs pets ect, that the residents of MS allow to rome free, and the reprecussion of killing a dog here in MS if caught, the 220 body grip is also out.
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Post by robertw on Apr 26, 2007 11:00:14 GMT -6
RN, With the size of deer that you have in your state it IS NOT possible to use a BADS and expect to hold coyotes and release your deer. The use of a deer stop is the most important thing that you can incorporate on your snares to keep from catching deer by the legs or feet.
The other most important tool that you possess is your mind, exercise good judgment in where you set your snares.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 26, 2007 11:33:40 GMT -6
Y ou can run slightly smaller loops than usuall, like 8" and 8" up helps, hoe out side trails off deer trail and lure them. Use dive sticks to some degree. ive more gone to blind trail sets with traps when snaring deer is a no-no. they can be gang set pretty fast so you usually have some open traps when coyote comes thru. turd one side of jaw and larger stick on other slows some coyotes down and double guides some deer step over the whole deal.
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Post by robertw on Apr 26, 2007 12:41:54 GMT -6
Rich;"smaller loops than usuall, like 8" and 8" up helps"
If you could see the size of deer that they have in Mississippi, especially this year with the drought....Well lets just say that you would probably think they could be snared in 8" loops!
In all honesty, your yearling deer in Nebraska by November are bigger than Mississippi adult does. Most of the adult does in central Mississippi weighed 90-110 pounds this winter with the guts in them! (They do not field dress deer in south until after they are weighed).
When you realise the actual size of southern deer you can start to appreciate the role bobcats play in impacting deer herds in the south.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 26, 2007 14:01:43 GMT -6
IC, maybe a bigger loop would miss more deer then?
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Post by markymark on Apr 26, 2007 15:45:10 GMT -6
Put a deer stop on.
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Post by bobwendt on Apr 26, 2007 16:13:56 GMT -6
I`ve neck snared button bucks and does in 6" loops set a few inches off the ground in briar thickets ,like tunnels for coons. and in dig unders and about every conventional and unconventional set known to mankind. the sob`s must walk with their heads dragging the ground. foot snaring almost never happens, it`s their heads that get in, just like any other animal. and stops won`t help that. the jump sticks etc etc have been miserable failures too, as have bad`s. for the most part I`ve just quit snaring as who wants to keep replacing bad`s even when they do work, and looking over your back all the time is no fun either. deer and dogs, both giant pains in the keester, #s 2 and 3, only behind human beings.
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Post by Woodsmoke on Apr 27, 2007 6:16:48 GMT -6
I have to agree with RobertW on this - deer stops and common sense will eliminate a large % of deer catches.
During my pre-stop days, I caught some deer by the feet - since going to the stop I haven't caught 1 by the foot. You can tell when you "missed" the deer though, as the loop is pulled down and out.
A trick for snaring crawl unders in barbed wire, where the deer are using them too, is to go up to the next wire and use a stout stick or some wire to create a "deer door" in the fence that will be more convenient for them than crawling under. Obviously you need to clear this with the landowner, and probably not a good idea in fields with stock in them, but does work.
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Post by bobwendt on Apr 27, 2007 6:24:15 GMT -6
bet none of you can say you havn`t had any 4 legs up ,around the head, stops or not. not saying anything wrong with that, just that t is so. deer or coyotes either one are pests that do not deserve any protection at all. wild goats and wild dogs would not be tolerated, lol, unless f and game made $ off them too. and they say they don`t like the commercialization of wildlife, uh huh.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 27, 2007 7:38:04 GMT -6
coon and cat sized snares I have more foot snared, problem w/ deer stop it eliminates the option to kill the intended catch. Jump sticks to work a lot better on coon/cat loops than coyote though.
Using a lower loop w/o a deer stop, a duck/jump (cats and coon duck pretty easy, low enough deer step over) and a 110 lb breakaway, serves me pretty well these days.
If I was still into snareing coyotes bigtime, I'd have to come up with something different, which probibly wont happen with a 50% or higher throw away rate.
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Post by Rally Hess on Apr 27, 2007 10:00:08 GMT -6
Don't build any bridges over your snares. Both small deer or winter stressed deer have their head close to the ground and even small sticks, cattails tied over snares,and small sticks in numbers will cause deer to duck. They do it all their lives. Use light blocking like single cattail stems, handfull of light grass, pine bough etc. If a deer can see through it they will most often push through it. Like Bob posted some seem hell bent to crawl down trails in thick cover and by putting "duck sticks" it is directing them into the snares. I have a customer that traps on an exotic farm where deer are raised for racks. They wanted the predators gone but were worried about losing deer. This guy used an apple extract placed on cotton balls and put one up about chest high adjacent his snares. He claims it caused the deer to raise their heads in the vicinity of his snares and he caught no deer but took out several fox and cats. He said he caught some coon, but also had several climb the trees to get the cotton ball. I've not tried this, but seems to make sense. My only question would be if this would draw more deer to the location than would be normal. He also used deer stops and had several knock downs, but still didn't catch any deer.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 27, 2007 11:18:31 GMT -6
I use bigger the better all the time for a dive stick on coon/cat snares, if 15-18" off ground, i cant say Ive ever had one crawl under by a deer. Coyote size and height, different story. I prefer something with some branches on it wired to a tree beside trail, more limbs above seem to detour them around whole thing, but I wont hesistate to wire up a single 2-4" log as long as not too high, and have no probs with deer catches on such set ups. Works for me.
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Post by bobwendt on Apr 27, 2007 12:10:12 GMT -6
I have plumb blocked the whole trail so deer just go around both blocks, while the fur bearer being smaller goes right back to the trail- with limited success. I still see no way to not catch deer in deer country if doing any amount of snaring, although common sense and all the tips will help, but dang , even everything right and a guy is dang near afraid to run them some days.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 27, 2007 17:21:35 GMT -6
Another thing I try to do with a single pole, is angle high where resting against tree where trail sucks close to a tree, and angle down to ground at around 45 degree or so. I can get most deer stepping over low side and critter ducking the tall side of the stick. Kinda got to have the right setup. Works real well on high bank coon trails that cats seem to gravitate too. Lot of times coon trail is right at creek bank edge, and deer trail is a few yards out on separate trail. Now here is a deer release trick that DOES work. Give them enough cable that they flop over edge of tall verticle bank. Then they pop breakaways real good falling to a dead drop to end of cable. Not sure how the deer like it, but at least they are usually free with no hardware on them. Like everything else, it fails now and again. Had a huge doe couple years ago flop off a 50 ft straight down bank, and didnt pop a heavy breakaway, hanging there off cliff. ive popped off more than a few deer off this bank over the years and never had one hanging, this time I did and its about 200 yards from the bridge. Was there before dawn so no one saw it, but had a hell of a time pulling back up prolly 8 ft off cliff edge. I always laughed I disagree off when I'd pop one off this cliff onto the frozen river, at the tracks the poor bastard left slipping and sliding down the ice after its 50 ft drop. Think it cured them from coming back on that trail again. This year I ran kill poles and heavly grassed the pole and support wire and made a good jump over for deer out of that at this cliff. Prolly could use Roberts snare support the same way to some degree. Ran with some 110 lb breakaway on these snares. This is a beaten down coon trail right next to cliff edge in 4 ft wide grass strip, deer usually stay out in milo stubble for me here. ya know, come to think of it, I squirted a lot of urine off in milo to see if it would keep them out in field too, like mentioned above. Forgot all about that till now, but remember doing that to keep a repeat from happening along with the kill pole jump stick deal. Luring high w/ sweet stuff just might have some potential. I dont hunt deer any more, what are the better smells for deer? Apple oil, sweet corn oil?
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Post by Hornhunter on Apr 27, 2007 19:51:58 GMT -6
Took this out ofthe "Alaska Wolf Trapping Manual". I can picture places to make this set like in old skid trails with the sides grown thick with fur and spruce. Difference would be the size for coyote. And the center should have brush so a deer would step through and the coyote would take the side trail through the snare. Bet it would make a good blind set for a trap also.
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Post by Rally Hess on Apr 27, 2007 20:15:53 GMT -6
Rich, The set up you described with the stick wired to the tree is a sure deer slayer in snow country, just ask the guys in Mi. Horn hunter, I'm betting that set up would be 50/50 at best with deer. Moose are alot taller and would avoid a tight spot. Winter trailing deer would most likely use the trail most tracked up. The log over the snare also makes a great place to hang the deer if caught.I used to use make a large "Cubby" type set with snares. I'd arrange three or four Balsam/Spruce/pine/Cedar trees in a makeshift corral and then cut out openings for snares and put baits in the center of the "Cubby". Had considerable trouble with deer browsing the trees but needed the venison pretty bad in those days. Same thing with walk through cubbies with snares for cats. I wouldn't recomend using any type tree that deer would browse for fencing or cubby material in deer country.
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Post by Hornhunter on Apr 28, 2007 6:24:17 GMT -6
When we were snaring an x warden who had snared coyotes since the 70's showed how to set snares in a deer trail to avoid deer and catch coyote. A pole set straight across the trail with the bottom not over 16" from the ground. Deer stepped over coyotes go under. I found it worked real well and you didn't need deep snow for this set. But it didn't take "much" new snow to put you out of business! The set above would have to be made so the poles would be nearly as low as the set I mentioned. Brush in the middle seems to me would cause the coyote to go left and right. Deer being too tall hopefully would step over the brush.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 28, 2007 7:07:21 GMT -6
Ok- I've never snared a deer. What do I do when it happens?
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Post by bobwendt on Apr 28, 2007 8:05:13 GMT -6
say, oh chit, do I "cut" and run, hide it in some brush, or eat it? is anyone watching? has anyone seen it? oh chit again, there are footprints around it and there is a green truck 3/4 mile out parked on the road. I`ll get the binocs and ck him out. oh chit again, he is looking back at me with binocs. revert back to first 3options and make choice.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 28, 2007 8:18:48 GMT -6
LOL- yes, that is my plan.
Are we required to report a dead deer? What about live deer? How do you release them.
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