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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 2, 2011 22:28:22 GMT -6
The old fart buys Duke DPs and they are way cheaper then any of the other DPs. I would hate to buy some daggers, my numbers would escalate and I wouldn't be able to get out of fur shed.
I bought DPs before Carlis came out with his trap I learned how to use the traps I have and I'm very happy with the results.
I tweaked some of my DPs to make them more efficient. Any way in my opinion.
What i did was hole saw a I" hole directly across from the trigger. Then I installed a sliding hatch that covers the hole. Now I can slid open the hatch and bait my trigger. I have altered the trigger so It's better at holding the bait. This hatch allows me to slide In a special bait plug that fills the bottom of the tube. I like to tinker and In most of the cases It increases my catch.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 3, 2011 7:21:54 GMT -6
missed this first time around-
By saying you catch rats at pipe sets has no bearing on the Dagger with push pull triggers what so ever
if you are going to quote me, then please do 2 things- include the entire quote, and include the context of the quote......
Cd stated that he can't get rats to investigate smells or bait so he wouldn't worry about catching them in dps- and I commented, to that comment, that I catch a lot of rats at pipes showing they certainly DO investigate coon lures and baits-
the comment had nothing to do with daggers.
secondly- my comment to you about little experience in them, was not to deny your fun, but to point out, that those with many years of experience on just pull triggers, at least in the northern zone, have few if any of the problems you are experiencing with cleaning out traps, etc..
therefore, your conclusions that they are 'wasting efficiency" have no merit.
as in many things- the trapper makes the trap.
using a liquid lure- has shown ME, that the pull only trigger, is no detriment to efficiency. other factors a well come into play, such as making sure the dp is SOLID and stable.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 3, 2011 7:53:12 GMT -6
Tman if you read beavs post he states in one breath he buys Dukes because he is happy with them and are way cheaper.
Then the next breath he states he does things to them to make them mor efficant. That is where I'm on on the subject of DP's.
Dukes retail for 139.95 and Daggers for 164.95 talking 25.00 more per dozen, your getting for that 25.00 IMOOC far more value and no need to "tinker" as Beav suggest to make the duke a better trap.
I break it down as 25.00 a dozen stock out of the box on 10 dozen if the daggers net me 10-12 more coon on 120 set traps I made the differance in no time and I have zero "tinkering" taking place with the dagger. Which again IMO using some of both for my limited time the dagger to have a more soild staking system, a better designed trigger and a different take on holding ability as we have already discussed.
I agree with rats and lure smells but change out your 1.5's for duke dp's and see how many rats you catch out of every 50 set. Again being efficant the 1.5's are going to take far more rats than the dp's no matter what brand you choose correct?
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Post by trappnman on Dec 3, 2011 8:09:46 GMT -6
heres how I "tinker" my dps-
Add a tube to the trigger.
cost about 1 cent if that, time a few seconds.
so, I can outfit about 2500 traps for your 25 dollars
but all these are side issues-
the point being- that if you are having problems with just a pull trigger, then by all means, you should indeed, use a push/pull in whatever trap design you like.
by the same token- if ONE DOES NOT HAVE THE PROBLEMS YOU EXPERIENCE- then adding a different trigger would accomplish nothing.
using a tube, liquid bait- I HAVE NONE OF THE PROBLEMS YOU EXPERIENCE
therefore- adding a trigger or switching brands of traps, WOULD DO NOTHING TO INCREASE EFFCIENTCY
you miss the point entirely about the rats and my comment on lure to CD-
the reasoning behind WI regulations, has been made over and over by several on here- if you disagree, write the WI dnr. Until I trap in WI, I don't care either way. I agree rat take would be slim- but so what? its a regulation WI put in that ALLOWS WATER TRAPPING FOR COON 2 WEEKS BEFORE FOOTHOLDS ARE ALLOWED. and to be honest, if a trap is capable of taking protected incidentals before season, then if I was a strict foothold trapper, I'd be more than pissed at the "free" season extention granted to those using other traps.
a PULL trigger does just that- eliminates almost 100% of incidentals in water.
does a push trigger, do the same?
who knows?
not I, and not you.
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 3, 2011 9:18:06 GMT -6
$25.00 difference So now you know what I pay for traps. LOL Lets see 10 doz traps at a $25.00 savings Is $250.00. In my opinion that's a huge savings. And my cost Is even lower so now that savings Is even more beneficial. 39 I tinker because I like to do It. And a loading or clean out gate on any trap would be a improvement. And If you go back and read my post you will see I only TWEAKED A FEW. To see if It improved the function of the trap. If people didn't tinker we wouldn't have any changes In the way we trap and the equipment we use. CARILS Is a tinkerer And look what he came up with.
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Post by mustelameister on Dec 3, 2011 9:50:47 GMT -6
Speaking of tinkering . . . thinking down the road on these enclosed trigger traps. How long before the spring goes too weak to hold the really big boys? 5 years? 10 years? Just a thought here.
Was thinking about the Duke DP in particular, since that's all I've run so far. Not that I suspect the spring will go weak in time on this particular trap, but it's all I've really used and thought about this season.
What if a fella burred up the inside of the cylinder that the spring bar brings the paw to? Sort of making it look like a cheese grater. You could drill tiny holes into the outside of the cylinder into the inside and where the drill bit enters it would mushroom a little. Do this in rows and columns and you'd have that cheesegrate feel.
Just a thought
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 3, 2011 10:36:20 GMT -6
Mike I'll get right On that Issue. I'll have a add on beefer spring designed In the next couple of weeks .LOl But then you could just add a shock spring On the trap like they have on the Crap master. Or you could take some of that non skid boat paint and spray the Inside of the trap. We need to tinker with the trap NOT DESTROY IT LOl I have already figured out how to make your DPs mouse proof but I won't be able to sell the method within 300 mile radius of Oregon WI. But I will share this with all of you. Just set them on stabilizers In 6" of water. There that's the last Idea I'm going to share with you. Oh well just to help out 39 you could also use that same stabilizer and stage your traps about 6" above the ground and that In It's self should deter any mouse activity. You have to be thinking all the time. IT"S NOT THE TRAP THAT CATCHES THE ANIMAL IT"S THE TRAPPER> OR THE TRAP IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE TRAPPER SETTING IT> THERE TAKE THAT TO THE BANK
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 3, 2011 11:21:50 GMT -6
beav I was compairing retail to retail not what some inside in any company can get them for. We are talking common trappers buying them at the going rates. New not used published prices.
I know a guy who got a steal of a deal by buying Dukes in larger QTY but that is not the norm for most trappers. There going to pay somewhat close to retail the prices I listed.
My point isn't about tinkering you thought you could improve on the trap so you tinkered, I don't see anything I "need" to tinker with on the daggers, just like sterlings or jakes for coyotes no tinerking needed, I like that. Time means different things to different people know doubt about it. I;m not out to build a trap is I was I would do as others do and build a trap most don't need to tinker with to get great results and super high catch ratios.
I just love tinkering with the duke 1.5 coil to remove the burrs LOL.
The Duke is a good DP trap, but IMO the dagger is far better.
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Post by motrapperjohn on Dec 3, 2011 16:24:40 GMT -6
Hey Beav if you if you had a GOOD trap to use coon trapping you wouldnt have time to tinker, you would be to busy skinning, HAAA! sorry couldnt resist that one. Hey give me a call!314 283 7186
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 3, 2011 16:38:06 GMT -6
I don't need to be trapping I have way to many coon and rats In the shed to even think about setting traps. Carlis I'll be getting to your 17 rats some time tomorrow The devil made me do It buddy.
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Post by thorsmightyhammer on Dec 3, 2011 17:52:52 GMT -6
I don't need to be trapping I have way to many coon and rats In the shed to even think about setting traps. Carlis I'll be getting to your 17 rats some time tomorrow The devil made me do It buddy. Whose coon and rats. That little pile you caught must be done by now lol
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Post by mustelameister on Dec 3, 2011 18:24:36 GMT -6
Mike I'll get right On that Issue. I have already figured out how to make your DPs mouse proof but I won't be able to sell the method within 300 mile radius of Oregon WI. But I will share this with all of you. Just set them on stabilizers In 6" of water. There that's the last Idea I'm going to share with you. That might work that day, but tomorrow you'd find them completely submerged, or even on dry ground the way this river pops up and down. Keep thinkin' Grandpa!
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 3, 2011 18:56:58 GMT -6
Very simple grass hopper just attach a little life jacket to each trap water rises so does the trap. Do I have to do all the thinking
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Post by mustelameister on Dec 3, 2011 21:30:34 GMT -6
I am not worthy of such advice . . .
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 3, 2011 22:01:51 GMT -6
Whose coon and rats. That little pile you caught must be done by now lol
I think I have put up about 3000 rats not counting my own. Did some coon but I'm trying to get the rats done first. Did 200 today and just threw out another 100 to do tomorrow. Got another 150 to do after that and then I have a another 700 to do. It isn't as fun as trapping but the money Is good with not much over head. They have a bunch of carcase rats but I rather not mess with them If I don't have to. Frozen wet rats are a pain to work.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 4, 2011 10:25:07 GMT -6
I don't know if my hands could take that much rat skinning. Both thumbs constantly ache from setting traps and skinning- part of getting old i guess
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Post by RdFx on Dec 4, 2011 11:23:25 GMT -6
Naw Steve your not getting old your just getting worn out bodily and physically......so i found out shingling my house....!!
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 4, 2011 11:42:51 GMT -6
It's all skinned stuff that makes It pretty easy. I must be very lucky because i have very strong hands and skinning and setting traps has no effect on me. And I'm In my seventies
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