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Post by possumpincher on Feb 19, 2006 13:24:53 GMT -6
I have no problems with the duke traps but.I prefer sleepy creek or victor . I also modify all my traps so that makes it a different situation all together.
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Post by Possum on Feb 19, 2006 14:15:57 GMT -6
I like my Duke 220s because they have weak springs and I don't have to be a muscle-man to set them. They still kill the coons.
I don't like any of the other Duke traps I've tried because you have to fool around (modify) with them to make them usable.
Give me a Sleepy Creek anytime. Pull it out of the box, dunk it in some F-1 and slap it in the ground. I'll let you know if one ever breaks or wears out. Hasn't happened to me yet.
Cost? Lose one or two animals to an inferior or improperly modified trap and you've made up for the higher initial investment. Have one trap break and become unrepairable and you've made up the higher initial investment.
Mind you, I don't drive a Mercedes -- but I'm not a Yugo driver, either. I just want what works the way it's supposed to work.
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Post by trappnman on Feb 19, 2006 15:40:58 GMT -6
First of all- any 220 that has stronger springs than a 220 Duke- is not for me. I get a hernia setting them now.
Secondly- you do not have to modify the Dukes. This talk about the pan and this and that means nothing. NOTHING on the line.
For example, replacing the pan bolt. I've never done it , never worried about it, never will do it. Why would I? I use my 1.5s as coon land traps, and as primarily a mink trap. I want the bolt to be loose. If I do adjust- it is to loosen up the pan. My amount of snapped Dukes with this practice is minisule. When set, the pans have NO wobble on a short notch. Never replaced any J hooks ethier and have held 20 or more coyotes in them over the years- 2 this year.
And trimming down the pan. Must have a lot of extra time and nothing to do- cause thats all you are accomplishing is busy work. Might as well carve a picture of a duck on the bottom for all the good you are doing. In a trapline situation, IE an animal stepping on a trap pan- the PAN DOES NOT GET CAUGHT UP IN THE LEVERS. Take a fox foot or a coon foot and set and snap the trap until your hands get sore- it ain't going to happen.
Regarding 1.75- my ONLY modifications are to short notch the pan, and recently changing the chains (I had 2 break in 2 days a few years ago, a first after 15+ years of usng Dukes).
I did no other modifications, and have caught a lot of coyotes with them.
I've just used Duke traps too long and too successfully to entertain any thoughts they are inferior to other production traps. In many cases, they are better.
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Post by sbhooper on Feb 19, 2006 17:44:50 GMT -6
You cannot argue with a company where the boss goes to conventions and doesn't just send a flunkie to show off his stuff. I had a good visit with Bill at the FTA last summer and he is a decent guy. There may be better traps if you want to put out the money, but Duke is a line of perfectly usable traps that a guy can get into without mortgaging the house. I haven't trapped a lot of critters, but the Dukes that I have work fine. A baseplated #2 held a coyote for me that may have been there longer than he should due to a deep snow storm. He was waiting when I showed up with a perfect front-foot catch.
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Post by Craig Todaro on Feb 19, 2006 17:46:28 GMT -6
Well said trappnman. For the life of me. I don't understand why when someone complains about the pan wedging between the levers. The first comment is "CUT THE PANS DOWN" If the trap is tuned right it will never happen. Now someone will say that they can buy brand XXX and they don't tune them. Well I've used duke, sleepy creek, victor, montgomerys, bridgers. They all need tuned to an extent.
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Post by thefoxtrapper on Feb 19, 2006 18:53:26 GMT -6
as many of you know ive been primarily beaver and otter trapping the last few seasons, i own about 50% duke 330s and 50% bridger 330s, see no difference, duke 330s rock and roll, my traps do the talking for me and duke are right there at the top, also own a few dozen duke #5 dbl, great traps and they are strong holding machines, try them out and make a decision but recommend catching enough fur to make an informed decision, w
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Post by 17kiss on Feb 19, 2006 20:26:07 GMT -6
Mars , are you stiff? LOL I know I am. ;D Lugging all that fur caught in them Dukes this weekend. Oh yea and remind me to not load fur behind my axles when running with you. Dang truck was all over the road on way home.Nuff said.
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Post by fishadict on Feb 19, 2006 21:07:27 GMT -6
OK, Steve. Bring one of your un-tuned 1.5 Dukes (LOL) to Marshfield. I'll bring a tuned one. We'll compare and discuss over beer. I'll buy.
fa
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Post by RiverRat on Feb 20, 2006 3:22:45 GMT -6
I should point out that the only time I replace pan bolts are on the #4's as I want heavy pan tension to avoid muskrats an coon during beaver season.
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Post by thefoxtrapper on Feb 20, 2006 5:28:08 GMT -6
pa hilljack, yeah my shoulders are stiff for sure, but my dumba$$ is going back for more today in the snow, hehehehe, did the other guy get home with his treasure he found? maybe we should ask on the other forum, hahahahaha, w
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Post by trappnman on Feb 20, 2006 6:27:21 GMT -6
Better how?
Better results?
How?
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Post by terminator1 on Feb 20, 2006 6:47:28 GMT -6
Steve if your talking about better traps.
1 3/4 machine chain better swivels swivel in the center of the chain center swivel on trap and #6 j hooks
#4 swivel in the center of the chain #6 j hooks
and Dukes are the best trap for the money
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Post by trappnman on Feb 20, 2006 8:22:04 GMT -6
Hes talking pan bolts.
The ones in the 1.75s seem to adjust just fine for me, and the 1.5s never have been a problem by any defintion FOR ME.
On my Duke 1.75- the only thing I change is the chain. And thats only been last 3 years. For 20+ years used the stock chains w/o any problems (read that as chain breaking, losses)
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Post by gunner on Feb 20, 2006 8:32:33 GMT -6
I don't want to be the devils advocate but if Dukes are the best bang for the money then what is the true cost of a duke if all these mods are being done when comopared to the cost right out of the box for many of the others...Like Chain and better swivels etc...some of the others already are being sold that way and don't need as extensive mods for your use??? Are we comparing apples to oranges( sorry Bob) had to get that one in there?
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Post by Zagman on Feb 20, 2006 8:44:33 GMT -6
First Duke 1.5 I held in my hand, I dry-fired it and it broke.....not a great first impression.
However, I can certainly see the value in running these for mink, coon, and red fox-only areas.....
If I had to stock up on several dozen traps for bridge trapping, or red fox-only trapping, can certainly see no reason to go elsewhere.....
A young lad in SE PA caught quite a few fox this year and ran into some coyotes along the way......as would be expected of ANY 1.5, the coyotes dismantled them and were gone.
If I thought I might run into a coyote, I would modify them and hope for the best......
Or, if I could only use 1.5's, go to the old Monties or new Montanas.......but you are doubling the cost.....
Not a Duke basher, nor a Duke lover.....guess I am a Duke respector.........many good trappers across the country rely on them as their workhorse, and that's good enough for me.....
Zagman
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Post by trappnman on Feb 20, 2006 9:05:29 GMT -6
DUKES IN THE 1.5 AND 1.75 SIZE NEED NO MODIFICATIONS.
Chain? Most mod freaks replace the chain on ANY trap expcet the very high ends ones- and probably even those.
Worse traps I've ever had "out of the box" were bridgers. Victors are terrible right out of the box.
So much of the misinformation on Dukes, comes from those who haven't used them.
I heard there was a trap out there that broke when dry fired. So it was a Duke huh?
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Post by mike692 on Feb 20, 2006 9:10:29 GMT -6
Like Chain and better swivels etc...some of the others already are being sold that way and don't need as extensive mods for your use??? All of the mass produced "American made" traps that I'm aware of come with the swing set chain and garbage swivels. I would have to change it on them as well. If you want to see a poor excuse for a trap, take a look at the Victor "Pro" 4X4 canine trap. For $164 dollars a dozen you get thin jaws, junk chain and swivels. I wouldn't pay fifty bucks a dozen for them. All you're paying for is the Victor name.
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Post by upcoyote on Feb 20, 2006 10:11:22 GMT -6
The Duke line seemed to improve from about 10 years ago, especially the coil springs. I like the #3 offset for 'yotes, never had a problem with them. Only modifying I do is center swivel the chain. I really like the 110's, a bit cheaper and I cant see a difference between theirs and the other brands.
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Post by primetime on Feb 20, 2006 10:31:32 GMT -6
I used almost 90% Duke's this year. 1.75's for coyotes, 1 1/2's for Coon, Mink, Muskrats, and 220's/330's for Coon and Beaver. I had very little problems and I didn't modify anything that shouldn't be done with any trap and that was check pan tension and dog length. Only trap that got destroyed was one that got frozen into the ice and I tried to axe it out. It didn't come out so well... I held 10 coyotes no problems. Only thing that I had happen was the pan bolts stripping out on 2 or 3 of my traps. Must have been a bad run of bolts. NOT 100% dukes fault. I work for a company, and we get bad things in from other suppliers and sometime they get put into products. Not the norm, but the exception and that is what I feel happened with these pan bolts. Will not make me stop buying dukes. Bodygrippers had everything DOA. I took some large beaver with them and they were all head caught DOA. NO COMPLAINTS. WAY MORE TRAPPER ERROR THEN TRAP ERROR THIS SEASON FOR THIS TRAPPER. Maybe I should get some modifications done to myself???
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Post by Maineman on Feb 20, 2006 12:43:09 GMT -6
DUKES IN THE 1.5 AND 1.75 SIZE NEED NO MODIFICATIONS. WOW, pretty bold opinion...but it's yours...OK... As for mine, the 1.5 Duke is my #1 fox, coon and muskrat trap and IMHO the trap needs modification...Would it catch something without modification ? Sure...Does it perform better when modified ? Absolutly... Debate on...
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