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Post by mac on Aug 21, 2007 4:53:15 GMT -6
Many do not favor body grips for mink. I know it is speculation but considering the mink is not particularly elusive, say as a coyote, what is the deal?
Do you think they see the trap as some thing unnatural and just go around or what?
Your opinion would be appreciated.
We don't have a lot of mink in Maine and most I have caught have been in foot holds. I have caught mink in body grips but am slowly attempting to learn more about body grips. I say slowly because when you only trap mink for a few weeks a year in an area with out a lot of them it is or seems to be a slow process.
There are a lot of guys that snare, like Marky Mark. What are the thoughts you snare guys have concerning the body grip?
Thanks
Mac
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Post by trappnman on Aug 21, 2007 6:15:11 GMT -6
I don't think it matter mac- its just whatever your style is. I set few 100s- well, I guess I normally have out 30-40, but relatively few, but more importantly, my eye goes to footholds, and the best locations are set up as footholds for me. I know a local guy (JimB) that uses almost exclusively 110s in pockets and does well.
never set a mink snare
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Post by mac on Aug 21, 2007 6:55:48 GMT -6
Thank you
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Post by lumberjack on Aug 21, 2007 6:59:40 GMT -6
I use 110s and 160s exclusively and dont think the frame is noticed at all by mink after the set is made. The trigger is a different story. I use 4 way triggers and leave one prong down the other is bent horizontal (on 110s). A trip wire is put on the bottom of 160 triggers. This gives him or her 2 smaller squares to try to fit through on the 110 and I believe that most of mine are caught pushing up with their back or down with their stomach on the horizontal prong and that only works on a 4 way trigger (on land). Under water I like the old 2 way trigger. I am sure I get aversion but couldnt tell you a number I just dont know in the hard soils/rock and spotty snow.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 21, 2007 7:20:15 GMT -6
lumberjack, I think you askedo n anthoer thread what the confiduration of the 22 triggers was- I beleive the classic V.
But even in 110s on land- start the triggers. If a mink is small enough to not touch a trigger wrie, then shes free to go. When the traiggers are started, there is no pushing or straining to make tem fire- just brush them a wee bit, and they snap. And no, misfires don't happen, they an only fire through the trigger.
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Post by lumberjack on Aug 21, 2007 7:31:28 GMT -6
I do use the classic v in bottom edge sets. I should do as BK does and put them together, off to a side for debris. I also feel a mink can oftentimes make it through any trigger configuration, on land, at times. Mink being wedge shaped, I feel my chances are better him pushing up or down, or sideways rather than against. Yes, starting the triggers helps. I really think a person has the edge, using 4 way triggers, no matter what shape you make them.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 21, 2007 7:49:14 GMT -6
never tried the 4 way.
will be trying some wooden pans this year.
Did do the loop of wire thing and that made no difference.
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Post by lumberjack on Aug 21, 2007 9:04:35 GMT -6
In a roundabout way, the horizontal trigger wire is the pan, only to be triggered by the belly or back, not the feet. I tried some 110s years ago with mesh pans and found a couple "jumped" the pan, instead of landing on it. This was in blind set situations, but I am sure they work good in cubbies with bait. Tracks in the mud showing they jumped it at a few sets and I quickly scrapped that idea. I feel the need for wire loops on 160s, Im sure they add several weasels and many mink for me a year. There is too much room for the horizontal trigger on a 160 for a mink to make it through.
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Post by primetime on Aug 21, 2007 9:17:58 GMT -6
I don't know what it is. Maybe the triggers, maybe the steel. I don't know, but I do know that I do much better using footholds. I try a couple dozen 110's every year, but do not have very consistent success with them. I'm going to try a few 160's this year to see how they do.
Under water (Bottom Edge Sets) I've taken Mink in 110's more consistently then out of the water.
But 110's must work. Many people take A LOT of mink in them every year. If you go out and use only 110's and forget footholds I'm sure you will have decent -to- good success with them. I just give up to quickly and put in some 1 1/2's.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 21, 2007 12:09:08 GMT -6
the secret of using the 110s mike- it to put them in the #1 spots. I like footholds better, so the footholds go in those posts. The 110s go in as after thoughts. They have to produce less.
Two 110 spots I'ver never did wel lwith that are highly touted:
beaver dams- yes, the crossover...but between the crannies where water is coming, not so much. I think this is part of the old investigate every hole school of thought. No food there, so not much action
Square box walkthrough culverts with a couple of inches of water in them. Figured out why on this one.
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Post by mountainman on Aug 21, 2007 12:28:02 GMT -6
I never had any luck blind setting the crannies on the bottom of beaver dams and didn't use bait because of coons. About everything uses the crossovers. For mink I would only use the abandoned dams to avoid most of the beavers and narrow those sets down real good.
We don't have anything like those box culverts here. I would look for the mink to cross over any where it was easy for them too.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 21, 2007 12:32:18 GMT -6
yeah- to a mink it seems. They all went over the top. Snow is nice at times......
I'm becomng convinced more and more, that mink, given the choice of pssible foos vs no food, take the psosbile route more times than not.
I think most times, a moving mink is a hunting mink, at times more dedicated than others, but always looking, always seeking the opportunity. When they are denned up, they are either full or tired.
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Post by mountainman on Aug 21, 2007 12:52:53 GMT -6
Steve, you have run those creeks so long you are a mink.
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Post by Kyle on Aug 21, 2007 13:23:51 GMT -6
Two 110 spots I'ver never did well with that are highly touted: Square box walkthrough culverts with a couple of inches of water in them. Figured out why on this one. Why didn't they produce?
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Post by trappnman on Aug 21, 2007 14:58:44 GMT -6
the advantages of getting older....
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Post by mac on Aug 21, 2007 15:47:55 GMT -6
Thanks for all the great replies
Mac
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Post by Steve Gappa on Aug 21, 2007 16:44:40 GMT -6
kyle- snow showed me that they were going over the road to ther top. Grassy banks on the few such I have here. I think if bare banks or big highways they would go through- but not that I could see as a matter of course......trappnman
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Post by BK on Aug 21, 2007 18:52:04 GMT -6
I plan to do two things different this season with my Conibear traps set for mink. I plan to use a few more 160's in my BE sets as a test , and am gonna try Circle triggers on some of my dry sets, just because I respect JL so much. The way they talk about mink prices I think this could be a good year to try new things. (Steve I wish my name would show up red like yours, I would post more often.)
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Post by CoonDuke on Aug 21, 2007 19:24:59 GMT -6
It seems like the big problem with mink and conis is the trigger. People do not seem to have problems with mink entering a snare.
I never tried this but...
Take a 110. Cut the one trigger wire off and cut the other short. Add a double ferrule to the short trigger wire and crimp the one side on the trigger wire.
Then take a short snare loop with thin cable, and thread the one end into the ferrule and crimp on a stop.
In theory, the mink goes through the snare loop and pulls it tight, which in turn trips the trigger and the bodygrip kills him. It would be worth a try...
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Post by psb1011 on Aug 21, 2007 20:30:27 GMT -6
I think that,and haved used wire,or monofiliment between the wires would be simpiler than snares on a trap.I tend to believe simplier is better.
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