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Post by SteveCraig on Aug 21, 2007 21:26:26 GMT -6
Just use the snare! Alot simpler.
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Post by mustelameister on Aug 21, 2007 22:29:40 GMT -6
I attempted, years ago, to run a dryland mink line with #120s. The catch wasn't enough to warrant a repeat the next season, but tracks in the mud & snow revealed that few mink were refusing the traps or going around them. And the #120s were doing the job dealing death blows to the mink.
The triggers were bent in a bell shape, very close to the jaws. The very ends of the triggers I hammered flat, drilled a small hole through, and wrapped picture hanging wire through each to form a small "happy face" . . . .
On the jaw where the dog would lock on, I took carpenter's crayon and greased that area up good. I've found that doing this creates a "sticky slippery" spot that allows one to "start" the triggers moving the dog up just a wee little bit without firing, yet fire quickly when moved again.
The traps were divided up into two groups: some painted flat white with rustoleum for snow and the other half brown, then hit with camoflage paint for trails before winter.
I also ran some 30-40 pound test monofilament across when the wire broke, which was often. That seemed to hold up better, but . . . the mandatory daily trap check and the few mink I caught didn't cause me to repeat the next year.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 22, 2007 5:16:57 GMT -6
I don't believe its the triggers at all- I believe its the square. THe triggers are nothing more then a thin weed stem.
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Post by seldom on Aug 22, 2007 5:33:28 GMT -6
Yes, I agree! That's why it's been my experience and observations that when using a 110-size trap, you need to give the mink headroom. First, by lifting the trap up a couple of inches or a little more seems to take the "square" out of the equation. Secondly, in order to help minimize the "square" further, some sort of camo either paint or onsite stuff to help break up the outline. Camoing with paint has been my choice and works for me rather then take the chance you will be setting in a location where there is enough natural stuff to camo & blend with.
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Post by CoonDuke on Aug 22, 2007 5:42:15 GMT -6
Just use the snare! Alot simpler. Steve, You are right, but a lot of states don't allow snaring. But, I doubt these states would allow a snare on a conibear trigger either...
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Post by BK on Aug 22, 2007 6:51:48 GMT -6
Sucked in again here,...I've posted about this in the past but I guess I can't shut up. The very best trigger set up I've used for dry land mink is one wire 2/3 of the way off to one side. My traps go off easy, I can count on one hand in the last 30 years where I've seen that a mink made it through. Judging by the size of the track in those few cases I'm glad they did, I was money ahead. I strongly feel the single largest reason mink avoid dry Conibears is too much crap used to try to "hide" that nasty trap that they have all seen in trapping publications. JL feels circle triggers hold a certain draw to mink IF I understand him correctly so I'm gonna try a few this season. In closing here let me offer this,...........many trappers feel mink care about things that they don't. The path of least restance leading where they wish to go is key here. One can see this when the snow is 6 inches deep. No chance of having my name show up red Steve?
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Post by trappnman on Aug 22, 2007 6:54:26 GMT -6
and also in the snow, one can see where they went around a bare 110.
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Post by BK on Aug 22, 2007 7:01:28 GMT -6
There is an art to picking the correct location to make your set Steve.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 22, 2007 7:08:30 GMT -6
really? thanks! ;D
the point being, that to say that mink won't avoid a uncamoed 110s, is something that I disagree with.
which is why I seldom make such sets- because time has shown me that quite a few, go around if they CAN.
two theory's have been made as to why- triggers in the way, or bulk of the trap. I feel that it is the trap itself- it looks odd, so why not go around.
Something as simple as a stick to the outer side on a sheer bank, or a log leaned against the bank, eliminates this problem.
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Post by musher on Aug 22, 2007 9:08:44 GMT -6
Mink around here run up the leaning poles I showed a pic of. They go right into the box to get snapped.
The problem with wire on the triggers is the tangles. You put your BG in the bucket with the others BG's and they get snagged. You jerk it free and the wire undoes. It's a hassle.
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Post by BK on Aug 23, 2007 5:56:06 GMT -6
So help me with this one Steve if you feel mink understand traps?
I have pics. of mink crawling in and out of plastic pails to get minnows, and in boats eating minnows left on fishing polls.
You saw these pics. ,.......... so were they just like really stupid mink? Or do you feel they were really smart mink and understood there were no traps involved? If you recall we had fun teasing Ninny with the pics.
(Your not gonna make my name show up red like your's are you?)
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Post by trappnman on Aug 23, 2007 6:03:49 GMT -6
going into buckets to get minnows- perhaps they wanted the minnows and know that minnow buckets contain such?
is that the same as going through a bare 110 placed in their path with no reason to GO through them?
Of course they will....most of the time.
but tracks don't lie- they also GO AROUND more than you think- remember my qualifier- if they CAN (go around)
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Post by BK on Aug 23, 2007 7:01:36 GMT -6
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Post by trappnman on Aug 23, 2007 7:55:22 GMT -6
Not really sure exactly where we are disagreeing.
You have never seen were mink have gone arond a 110?
I'm not saying its the norm, but I see it happen a couple of times a year anyways.
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Post by mountainman on Aug 23, 2007 12:05:28 GMT -6
Maybe its not really disagreeing, but looking for the direction to go with bits of info that can possibly lead to a significant conclusion. Sometimes all we get are bits and pieces of info. Just though I would throw my oar in.
I don't see that camoflaging traps and the path of least resistance are conflicting with each other, but rather two things that work hand in hand to varying degrees depending on the location.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 23, 2007 14:25:01 GMT -6
mntman- BK and I have this thing where on the phone or in person we are like peas in a pod on mink... but on the internet one or both of us is always confused.....
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Post by mountainman on Aug 23, 2007 16:31:43 GMT -6
Well thats pretty much what I figured trappnman. I believe that confusion or looking at the different points in depth like y'all do sure brings up some interesting questions and IMO helps towards finding answers.
What type of set would you call a 110 dry set out in the open that is fenced with sticks, blended in with long dry grass both in the fence and over the trap so there is an inviting opening that gives the mink the illusion of the path of least resistance? It works
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Post by trappnman on Aug 23, 2007 16:50:42 GMT -6
What type of set would you call a 110 dry set out in the open that is fenced with sticks, blended in with long dry grass both in the fence and over the trap so there is an inviting opening that gives the mink the illusion of the path of least resistance?well now...thats a BE set.....
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Post by livefreeordie on Aug 23, 2007 19:06:37 GMT -6
The very best trigger set up I've used for dry land mink is one wire 2/3 of the way off to one side. I use this same system, and I use it on my water sets for mink as well, I still use both wires, but just squeeze them together. I think mink are face sensitive, and they can tell the difference between a bendable twig or root and a wire, with this set up, they are already in the trap when the side of their body fires the trap, and the tiny females may fit through.
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Post by HappyPlumber on Aug 23, 2007 21:31:12 GMT -6
On small creeks where the water level doesn't fluctuate like a river, the bottom edge sets have worked the best for me . When mink are traveling in bad weather they are checking out all the hiding places under water. Pools with minnows in them need a trap on each end of the pool. These sets produce better in all weather. HP
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