Strong Springs and Mink

[primetime]

I'm running (2) different traps for Mink this year and I'm starting to wonder if some of my traps have just to much pan tension to be good Mink traps.

My favorite trap and the ones I'm catching the most Mink with are some Old Victor 1 1/2's. They have the old what are called "Pinch Pans". No bolts on the pan, sort of the same idea like on most Long Spring traps. These traps go off with the slightest touch and have been my best Mink traps by far.

The other traps I'm using are some new Duke 1 1/2 CS traps that I just got this year. I'm not sure if I've caught but maybe one Mink in these traps, but I've got a lot of them set. I've taken a decent number of Rats in them, but not many Mink. I've got the pan so it's loose (falls under it's own weight), BUT since the springs are so strong it still seams to go off very hard.

Are these a poor choice for Mink traps? I've had baited sets that looked to have been visited, but the trap never went off. Could be Mice or Shrews visiting the sets - I don't know.

I set them on as much as a hair trigger as I can, but I still feel I might be missing Mink with them. Anyone else using "New" traps like this with success, so I can maybe just rule it out.

Later - PT

[markymark]

File the top of the dog just a few strokes, it seems when they shear them there is a little burr on the top. Then bend the last half inch of the dog down just a hair.

[trappnman]

well, let me see... most of my mink traps are Duke 1.5 coils. All are on a short throw just like my coyote traps. Only trap I like better than these is the #2 double longspring. I even prefer the old Victor and B & L 1.5 longsprings over the Victor coils.

My traps I use are on mink are mostly 1) Duke 1.5 coils and 2) #2 dls 3).... then #1.5 longsprings 4) other 1.5s (these are at a minimum) 4) Duke 1.75

Gerald Schmidt uses mostly Duke 1.5s on his mink line....800+ mink in a season, they must work.

While I've caught 100s of mink in them, and countless others have taken untold numbers of mink in them- the #1 longspring is a very poor mink trap- to light, too low a hold (read that as toes)

fwi- given the choice between a Victor 1.5 and a Duke- I don't even hesitate. I find the Victor in that model to be a poor trap. Only thing worse for water trapping is the 1.5 jump traps. I'll NEVER use either for coon - too many empty traps at the bottom of slides with such traps.

Out of curiosity- what trap did that mink this morning pull out of?

[CoonDuke]

Marky posted the fix for them if you think the tension is too much on the Dukes.

[primetime]

I'm not telling.....

;D It was a Victor 1 1/2 CS, but when they can get to deep water, I really love this trap. There was ice between the trap and the water, so the Mink could not go out to deep water, so it just tangled under the bank or stayed under the bank. I tighten the chain/wire, so the only way they can go is out.

Now I'm not saying a Duke 1 1/2 isn't a GOOD Mink trap in general. What I'm asking is this. Does a NEW Duke 1 1/2 CS have to much pan tension? I have no actual Pan tension set, and I also set on as much of a hair trigger as possible, but with the Strong Springs it 'feels' like almost to much tension for a light footed mink.

[trappnman]

If your pans are falling down on their own, then they are not too tight. If the trap fires hard, then Mark gave the cure.

also- always have the free edge of the pan towards the bank with mink.

[primetime]

My free jaw is always towards the bank. I can just feel a drag on some of my traps as I'm trying to bring them down to hair trigger. I spent a lot of time filing down the dogs and pans right away, but maybe I still do have some burrs or something.

Putting just a little downward curve in the dog would probably be about perfect. Otherwise the traps are great. I'll try that tomorrow and see how it feels.

[markymark]

While your at it drop a teflon washer in the pan screw. I was turned on to those washers by another trapper and he was right.
If it takes you 1 minute to work that dog you'll see it's just asking for a minks foot.

Gerald Schmidt uses mostly Duke 1.5s on his mink line....800+ mink in a season, they must work.
He also bends his dog down a little.

[primetime]

Thanks

I wonder if I've missed any Mink because of this? Actually I don't want to know!!

Note: I am in no way saying that this has caused me to miss any Mink that I know of, but the pan "Felt" a little strong right before the breaking point and the trap fires. I like the traps with a little weaker springs, because they don't put as much upward pressure on the dog and fire easier.

I also don't like traps that fire almost by themelves, so there is a fine line that needs to be found.

[jim]

My mink traps are very sensitive, I always have some that spring when I am nestling them into their bed showering me with water and mud and that is the way I want them. A lot of find tuning and waxing. I carry a small file with me to fix one once in a while that just won't stay set. Jim

[JWarren]

Why do you guys want your traps so sensitive? I would rather not set traps prone to firing on their own. I even filed shallow miles triggers in my #1 longs to prevent checking empty fired traps. I only got about 10 mink this year but I never once thought I missed any because of too high a tension, if anything a prematurely fired trap caused me to miss one. Is this another hocus pocus thing perpetuated by old time mink writers or is there really an advantage to having a trap fire if you look at it crossways? Seriously, I'm just starting at the mink game and wondering.
Another thing, alot of folks say you need wire between the triggers of a #110 but I seemed to have no problems catching them in #220s on land without wire and without starting the triggers, what do ya'll think about that?

[trappnman]

lots of folk's including me this year, use 1.75s for mink.

JW- unless there is snow, you will never know how many walk through the wires. I read a study where a female mink went through a set 110 many times before firing it.

[primetime]

I don't want a trap that goes off to easy, but I also don't want it to drag or have much of any pressure. I want a nice smooth, crisp fire. On my traps I could feel a little drag or almost increase in resistance that last 1/32 of an inch from firing. Almost like it was hanging up a bit.

Anyway If I put that slight bend in the dog I'm guessing that will totally take that away and leave me with about exactly what I want.

[rk660]

Mark, I like that teflon washer idea, bet pen moves nice and smooth no matter how hard you tighten, think I saw a box of them laying around somewhere. Now that you mention it there are nylon and polyethilyne washers too, which would probibly work well also, maybe cheaper than teflon too.

[fishadict]

Mark hit it above. I used Duke 1.5's for the first time this year and really liked them. I hit the dog lightly a couple times on the anvil to flatten the burr on the top, then squared with a file. I shortened the notch to the depth of a Victor and adjusted for level pan at half notch. I replaced the pan bolt with the proper size and they were good to go.

Almost as good as a Victor - right Steve - LOL.

fa

[lumberjack]

Ave mink = about 2 lbs
Divided by 4 (feet) = about 1/2 lb on pan IF he isnt near the dead spot (as long built as a mink is in build I doubt it is even that much weight)
Add water and the weight is less.
We are not talking much weight here.
I reserve my older,weaker traps when setting specifically for mink.

[CoonDuke]

I have witnessed mink stand with both front feet on the pan at streamside dirtholes. I really feel you can miss them if attention is not paid to keeping the pan tension to a minimum.

[primetime]

Last night I did a little tinkering and set my traps as they were and could feel more pan tension then I'd like (This was all Spring Tension on the dog).

Took the traps over to my vice and hammered a very very slight downward curl on the dog and set the trap. The trap fired very smoothly and with no hang-ups or drag. I really think this will help on my Mink line. If nothing else it's one more thing I can rule out on why I'm not catching Mink. Thanks for the Help!

[trappnman]

b]I reserve my older,weaker traps when setting specifically for mink.

[/b][/quote]

I have to strongly disagree here- unless one is using big traps- like #2 and #3. A bigger trap acts like a bodygrip, and even if leg caught will be high up.

Weak traps have cost me a lot of mink over the years-

A big mink can easily swim around with a 1.5 on his foot, and if given any opportunity to roll up in grass, tangle, etc- you will end up with toes or a snapped trap.

A trap that has 2-3 lbs tension at the dog- will often have way less than a lb at the free edge.

All my traps have short notches- the best way in my mind to have a quick firing trap.

[primetime]

Steve, I shortened my notches also like you showed me, but I think when these traps are being manufactured the dog is stamped out and gets a slight (very slight) upward bend to the dog.

Know I've got a very strong spring trap that fires like a weaker spring trap just by putting that ever so slight downward curl in the dog. I think you are right that in a 1 1/2 size you want some strong springs. Especially when dealing with those large males.

Now do you think a toe caught Mink would have been there with a stronger spring trap if it got tangled on the bank? I doubt it, unless the original catch was further up and it pulled out down to the toe and then pulled off it's toe.