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Post by trappnman on Dec 20, 2005 10:18:53 GMT -6
Now do you think a toe caught Mink would have been there with a stronger spring trap if it got tangled on the bank?
I try to prevent toe catches.
A mink that has 1 toe in the trap (that is, 1 toe immedaitely when the trap sets) is going to be gone either way.
A good way to NOT get toe caught mink is to not 1) use jump traps (a tippy, weird firing trap) and 2) do not have TOO light a tension. I single out jump traps cause I hate them- but any tippy trap is going to get toe caught animals. Stability is often an understated thing for mink, rats.
Keep in mind- a toe in a trap does NOT mean that animal was toe caught. It simply means that when his foot got down to the nail, he was able to break the nail (toe) and be gone. A weak trap allows the mink to pull down to the toe (s).
A stong trap will hold the mink where it was caught. A slim, wet tapered leg in a weak trap, spells disaster.
Saying that, everyone should use what works for them.
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Post by primetime on Dec 20, 2005 10:25:41 GMT -6
I agree, but some traps do work better and that is just plain fact.
Also after having a trap set for 2 months and not catching anything, it's easy to get sloppy on trap placement and stability. That could have been a problem with this trap along with silt build up on the trap pan and jaws. At first you really pay close attention to stuff like that, but after checking it 25 times you begin to just pull it out shake off the silt and toss it back in. Figuring you won't get anything anyway. Goes to show you that a Mink trap if left long enough will sooner or later connect if in a good Mink area.
This particular trap always gets covered in silt and or the bank slides down onto it or around it. A lesson learned would be to reset a trap every time like it's your first time.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 20, 2005 10:46:54 GMT -6
lesson learned would be to reset a trap every time like it's your first time.
On every check, I pull most traps, rinse them off, and put them back securely. On many sets with longsprings, I put a stick through the spring to hold it secure. Maintenance is as important as originally setting the trap. It does no good to have traps that aren't 100% ready to go. I can't change the elements, but I can do all I can do to be ready for that next mink.
I never lose confidence in a mink trap. I've had too many set for a couple of months- then 2-3 mink in a row. Knowing that a trap might be in place for a long time, I still make sure that it is set the best it can be each time.
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Post by Wright Brothers on Dec 20, 2005 11:02:22 GMT -6
I learned a lesson like that long time ago. Took a partner who always would fool around with the sets, like he expected action every time. In no time at all I noticed he was right and the catch increased. Move the trap here, put a guide there, wedge the trap tighter, etc, it works. Then I had to "unlearn" that when land trapping. Meaning leave it alone and check from distance.
I always liked those pinch pan traps. While others didn't like them because they read something about them, I was catching fur with them, while partners shiney new trap was untouched. I still have a couple but they are pretty beat.
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Post by lumberjack on Dec 20, 2005 13:41:26 GMT -6
I didnt mean to imply that I use junk,unaceptable traps,just ones that have" toned " down in strength a bit after a couple-few years of use. New 1 1/2 cs traps have quite some strength to the springs. I find mink one of the easiest animals to hold,they seem to have almost no pulling power,especially in water.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 20, 2005 13:56:19 GMT -6
I'll use bigger traps that have toned down for mink- but have never worried about new 1.5 traps being too strong.
lumberjack- where do you live? I ask that in only that my experiences with mink seem to be quite different. I think that a big old horse mink has a lot of pulling power. I've tossed male mink out into fast water and deep water- only to have them sink to the bottom, then immediately swim back to the surface, and head right back to shore. I've seen where they tangle and tear up an area exactly like a coon- and I have had way too many mink toes in smaller traps over the years to ever use anything smaller than a 1.5 coil again.
I find them to fight and roll with a trap similar to how otter do.
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Post by lumberjack on Dec 20, 2005 15:18:34 GMT -6
I live in Pa,and am thinking real hard here and cant recall any mink that tore up a set for me like a coon does.Most are in a couple inches of water,most are dead without their heads underwater or chain pulled tight..I had a female once in a #2 coil that killed her instantly and never tipped the trap over. This is with 1 1/.2 coils (mostly victor)with 3-4 ft of chain and 2 prong grapples. I think Pa mink are real wusses-to be honest,ive seen where the struggle and fight was way more in a 110 conibear then foot trap,why,I have no idea.Maybe because the trap is lighter and they have all four feet to use? Maybe an improper strike with a 110 is just an inconvience (Thick,powerful neck muscles) to a mink till it eventually tangles and drowns?
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Post by mustelameister on Dec 20, 2005 15:25:54 GMT -6
"On many sets with longsprings, I put a stick through the spring to hold it secure." So . . . this means the trap is on a hard substrate, and you can't "work it into" the bottom? So you put a stick through the spring to hold it secure . . . I'm trying to visualize this Steve, and either I'm too tired or too dumb to figure this out. The stick is . . . horizontal??? The purpose of the stick is to keep the trap from wobbling around??? Please explain. Thanks.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 20, 2005 21:01:49 GMT -6
In certain locations- there is not enough room to properly bed the trap. So- I take a stick and with a cocked spring, run the stick trough the spring and under the trap- providing a platform of sorts for the trap to sit on. This really works well with the #2 dls, but just as well with te old 1.5 ls.
Funny how mink in different locales are different. One thing that might contribute, is 80-90% of my mink are males- and some big males- many stretching 34+ from nose to end of tail.
I just shake my head at the way NL securs his traps- and he takes a fair amount of coon- yet for him, it works well. I'd be looking for traps all over if I used his methods here. Yet for him- is works very well.
Thats like I'll never set a mink trap in less than a foot of water, and even thats rare- I much prefer 3 feet or more. A big male rear foot caught can and will be able to stand on the bottom in 2 feet of water with his nose out. I've seen it.
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