New to this site, need beaver help

[Missourian]

Hello all! I'm new to this site. Glad to be a member and have already learned a lot just by reading previous posts. I will be trapping beaver for the first time in a week or two. I only have a couple footholds at my disposal(no conibears). I'm planning on using castor mounds, and could use some imput on trap placement. Any tips/advice would be great. Thanks a bunch, Missourian

[Stef]

I'm sorry, but don't have much experiences with foothold and beavers but i can tell you that any good lured sets guarded with a #330 work well for me and I can get them where I want most of the time.

On ground, half water or under water.

Stef

[Edge]

What size footholds,my friend?Are you looking for front or back foot?

For a back foot catch,I offset my pan from the center of the mound about 4 inches and I want the trap in 14-16 inches of water....lure both sides of the mound.
The deal with mounds is that flattails want to cover it,which makes front footing a bit of a problem.Due to the fact that they are bringing an armful of goo with them.
To combat this,you make a shallower bed in front of the mound,and employ poke sticks(doesnt have to be sticks,just a term,but sticks work)that make the beaver not swim over the trap,but stop,and then put a foot down to continue,then,you are skinning.
Dont consider footholds a limitation,you will fill boards.


Edge

[trappnman]

Edge- buzzard told me a trick of making a ridge in front of the trap, say 3-4 inches high. Works much better than the sticks to get a beaver to stop and walk over.

[Edge]

Yeah,that works but here in spring the water changes rapidly,thats why I use stickss or rocks jammed into the mud.Any ostruction will work.......Ol Buzz prolly has more beavers before luch than I get all day!

Edge

[yota]

Missourian,

Hopefully I will not disrepect Edge, but the variables in back foot trappin beavers are so different it's hard to tell you on paper. There is no set standard on what you must do. My only adivse would be to look at the appropriate set and image. You have to image the beaver coming up to the set with his front feet tucked and finally placing them down. Where is he going to drop his back feet? This is something you have to answer not anybody else. Front foot catching beaver is very very easy............back footing them which insure that he will be there can be more difficult. My suggestion, stick with front footing and the method that Steve told you, keep back footing in your mind and think about it when you make your sets. It will come to you, at first it will be trial and error as your mind in thinking and your guessing...............but you will get the hang of it if you stick with it, it's quite easy once you know what you're lookin at.

[Missourian]

Thanks for the help. It's much appreciated. I will have a #3 coilspring, a #4 longspring and a #4 underspring to use. Besides castor mounds, is there any other good foothold sets for beaver? Thanks, Adam

[Edge]

No offense taken,Buzz,it is a by guess and by gosh technique;but once you start connecting,you keep connecting.When I like the front foot set is when I have smaller traps available or simply cant judge a back foot approach.

Missourian,
Unless the underspring is very strong,prolly best not to use it;yours may be strong enough,the ones I have would not hold an enraged muckrat.
The #4 I would consider to be the very Smallest trap for a hind foot catch,so I think you best follow Buzz's advice on the front foot;which is perfect for a #3,by the way.
There are many sets you can utilize;like the feedbed set,or blind sets,but as a relative newbie,you will get the most action out of castor mounds;especially in the pring when the beaver are MOVIN.

Edge

[Bogmaster]

Mo,If you want to really catch beaver,get some 330s.
You have way less variables ,and it is much easier for a new beaver trapper to enjoy the fruits of his labor.
Placement of footholds is so critical,I get more calls and e-mails from people having sprung footholds,and beaver toenails--than you can shake a stick at.
I use 330's and set them in front of castor mounds I have made--your laws require total submersion of a 330,but that in no way changes their effectiveness.
I know you don't have any 330s--and the other gents gave you great advice for footholds--but here is something to ponder.
The 330 has made poor trappers into fair trappers.
The 330 has made fair trappers into good trappers.
The 330 has made good trappers into great trappers.
The 330 has made great trappers into something unexplainable lol.
Show up at Columbia for the NTA convention and catch my demo,then you can ask questions for 4 days .
Sorry to get carried away with the 330 thing--but it is the only tool I now use for beaver.And limiting yourself to one tool--makes you come up with differant ways to make it more effective.
Are'nt you guys glad I did'nt go into my whole spiel---lol.
Tom

[RdFx]

If you do use the footholds an important thing to remember to use a GOOD swivel in addition to where trap chain swivel is attached... put swivel one or two links away fm trap original swivel and then attach trap to drowing cable or wire... you can use a swivel attached to end of trap chain as a drowning lock also... Stake or use enough weight to keep bvr down under water... bvr are strong so dont skimp on weight, 30# isnt too much if u use bags. Good Luck..... after you catch a few bvr in yr footholds you can sell pelts and buy some 330s to use also....

[Missourian]

Thanks again for the advice.

bogmaster,
While I wish I had a 330 or two at my disposal, I'm only 16 and extra cash is hard to come by. I hope to do like rdfx said, and catch a few beavers in footholds and buy a 330 with the fur money(all this depends on success though, lol). I have to use what I've got....

[dj88ryr]

Tom,
I am with you on the 330 thing, Beaver were my bread and butter up north, 15 or so a night. I caught all of them in 330s. You are 100% correct, you find ways in addition to the obvious to use them, and then you feel great and give yourself a big pat on the back, or a sip or two from the flask ;D ;D

[yota]

Hahahaha..........my turn to disagree !! But then again its personal prefference. I believe one can do more with a good snare than any 330.......but also they are not legal everywhere.........

different strokes for different folks

[dj88ryr]

I think you may be on to something there Buzz, but I am not as proficient with them as I am with the 330s, but once I learn a little more....... ;D

So, that means I may be bending your ear a little at the PTA...you are coming up right?? Oh, and by the way, I don't want to be catching them by the back foot ;D ;D

[Stef]

Buzz i agree with you on that but only for ADC usage on land

I explain, here we can snare everything from weasel to bear.

Snares for beavers... its deadly! Its a great tool but only where you can drowned your beaver like if you would set a foothold trap or under ice where they really shine.

On land, they are great too but at NAFA, they don't look as good as in the snares

Stef

[yota]

DJ,

I really do have to attend the PTA.........its where its at this year, 15 miles from the Ole homestead........maybe we can go for a ride and could show ya some of the old line.........

Stef,

you are using the wrong lock iffin your snared beaver are downgraded that much.

[Stef]

Graded Slight to damaged all the time Buzzard.

Beaver snared and drowned = no problem.

Stef

[yota]

ever tryed the Rhienhart lock Stef ??

[dj88ryr]

Looking forward to it Buzz

[Stef]

No