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Post by Steve Gappa on Sept 29, 2006 17:28:10 GMT -6
do coyotes tend to get hung up, go, get hung up usually fairly quickly then stay in one spot? Or the longer they ae out there, the farther they go?
my thoughts are on 48 hour checks, will the coyote go twice as far?
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Post by ohiyotee on Sept 29, 2006 17:53:44 GMT -6
obviously i have no experience with 48 checks but the coyotes that i have dragged seem to head for cover as soon as they can, so the terrain would dictate how far they will go. Once they are in cover they tend to not fight so much and lay low. greg
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Post by Stef on Sept 29, 2006 18:30:32 GMT -6
When the drag stop and the chain get tangled up good... they will stay there.
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Post by Bob Jameson on Sept 29, 2006 18:38:00 GMT -6
It all depends on what kind of area you are in as to how far and if a drag is even a consideration. I have had them hang for a while then move a little more then stop , break lose again and hang up again. Have had a couple go so far I thought it was a theft problem. Had to make some real big loops to finally find that average size yote.
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Post by Stef on Sept 29, 2006 18:39:20 GMT -6
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Post by Steve Gappa on Sept 29, 2006 18:54:53 GMT -6
Really want to use these drags. Never dragged a coyote before only a wood drag, only coon set incidentals and a few on purpiose early on on wooden drags.
THey are heavy digger type drags made by clefus, with 10 feet of #3 chain on them. Only have a few, so should be able to set them in the middle of entanglement somewhere.
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Post by gunny on Sept 29, 2006 19:11:54 GMT -6
If you are trapping in sagebrush country, the longer they are out there, they further they will go.
Often they will chew down the sagebrush the are tangled in, get hung up on the next one. I've had them chew down 3-4 sagebrushes. But ususally they don't go far. All dependent upon the brush and terrain in the area.
Watch out for the exceptions; when they don't head to cover and go straight down a road for 1/2 mile, then hang up. Like Bob J. mentioned sometimes you will swear someone stole your coyote.
The best thing you can do is to pre-tangle your drag around a tree, bush, etc.
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Post by trappnman on Sept 29, 2006 19:36:45 GMT -6
thanks for advice- it wil lbe sagebrush.
do you worry about covering drag? or just a few feet near the trap.
also- am taking out flagging tape to give me general location and metal detector...just in case of a white surprise.
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Post by nvwolfer on Sept 29, 2006 20:19:32 GMT -6
I tie a couple 2 foot long pieces of surveyors tape to the chain. This does a couple of things it will usually fall off the chain so when you find it you will know what direction the animal went. The biggest reason is if you latch on to a deer, antelope, elk they will take off with your trap and drag and usually not leave much of if any drag mark. Eventually they will step on the chain with their off leg and leave the trap but it could be a long ways away. With the tape on there it gives you something to look for, Another thing if you use wire screen check the screen to see what kind of teeth marks are on the screen. You can spend a lot of time looking for a coyote that is not there. Someone stole the trap, an ungulate took off with it ect. I looked and looked one day for a drag and my dogs kept hitting on a lodge pole pine but I couldn't find anything. I looked up the tree and there is the trap chain and drag. I had caught a bobcat and he climbed the tree and jumped out and was suspended from the tree and some how pulled out. Drags are great and I use probably 95% drags but I got good dogs and good drag country but nothing is more frustrating than looking for a trap and drag that are long gone.
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Post by thebeav2 on Sept 29, 2006 20:21:37 GMT -6
if your going to hook up the drag at the set you might as well stake the trap solid. The only reason I would use a drag, Is If I couldn't get a stake In, or If there was a big problem with theft.
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Post by trappnman on Sept 29, 2006 20:46:09 GMT -6
I want to use it for one reason only- cause I think its going to neat to follow a drag. I like following coon drags, a coyote wil lbe "more better"
I'll keep that in mind wolfer- while I can't take cats and won't set for them, I'd sure like to catch one and take pictures.
Surveyors tape for sure. Zagman told me about that.
I have a good nosed dog- but don't know if he will work coyotes. A good beagle is good o nfox also, so he might. OIf I work him a littleo nthe trapped coyotes...dead ones....hes not a ruffian like Zag's pair...LOL...he might trial one. That would be cool, my beagle baying down a coyote.
btw, Buddy has a real nice mouth on him, a deep long head down bawl. Real point worker, you see his a$$end and not tat spinning crap. Track to rack dog and real calm. I can see why my field trial buddy -LOL- wanted to keep him. He has derby wins and his doubleFd CH mated. I think if a guy wanted to, he could easily finsh in the little male class. I might get a bug up my butt and run him i na few trials next year. I do miss beagling..knew Hern;s dad then and bought collars from him.
ok guys- leaving for WY monday, will be setting traps wed- any last minute advice?
To keep things simple- I am going to set up 2 lines, 20 locations each having 3 traps. That should be no more than mornings run- even with my grandsons helping. Will be bringing snares, don't know how many I'l lset.
so- the advice given here and elsewhere has been taken to heart- I'll gladly accept any more....trappnman
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Post by mostinterestingmanintheworld on Sept 29, 2006 22:29:50 GMT -6
I've dragged hundreds of coyotes in the sagebrush and only one that I couldn't find. Most 72 hr checks.
You don't need 10 feet of chain in good brush. I use 7 or so.
I used the old Mike Ayers drags and some I made from tater conveyor belt rods.
Those drags aren't as aggressive as the ones being made now days.
Most of them don't go far but occaisionally one will chew down a mile of brush.
I wouldn't leave them showing, a lot of coyotes won't get caught if you do. For cats I leave them showing to keep the coyotes out.
Joel
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Post by mostinterestingmanintheworld on Sept 29, 2006 22:35:36 GMT -6
One other thing, if you can't find one, go back and look around real close for a cat.
I can't tell you how many times I seen the chain then the trap which I thought I had a pullout at first, then lo and behold a flattened out cat materializes.
You can walk two feet away and not see them.
Joel
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Post by lynxcat on Sept 29, 2006 23:00:45 GMT -6
Joel...AWSOME points...the cats being RIGHT THERE...in PLAIN SIGHT in front of you...OH man...dont know how many times I'm "soiled the jeans".. I make my own drags...2lb or so...work AWSOME.. I put 4' of chain on my drags...plus what's on the traps..7' or so!! NEVER had a problem...however cats WONT fight a set...coyotes will fight till you get there!! Had a lion last year that PLOWED about a 150' ROAD with a drag...could have drove the PU to him w/ OUT hittin a sagebrush..in HEAVY BRUSH!! MY issues with drags(good ones) is that the critters DONT get away from a LARGE % of the sets....farm land excluded. For cats..a drag is an ANCHOR cuz they NEVER leave!! lynx
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Post by Bob Jameson on Sept 30, 2006 7:40:37 GMT -6
Depending on the brush and whether there are some small trees in the area those cats will climb and hang on a limb or behind one and you just wont see him unless you make an effort or stop close to where it gets nervous and makes a move or rattles a chain etc. Had many hold fast while I walked by a few times and looped back and then realized how close I walked by the first couple of times.
I use metallic mylar reflective tape that is used in bird control work as a chain and drag tie on. I put on about 3 to 4 feet it is very durable. This stuff will reflect in the sun and flutter very easily with little wind assistance. You can usually buy some at the Walmart in the garden center around the bird seed and mouse and rat products.
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Post by lynxcat on Sept 30, 2006 8:29:57 GMT -6
Good idea Bob...I know when I come up on a set I FREEZE...sometimes I'll stand there for 2-3minutes JUST looking around if the animal is not immediately visible...AMAZING how sometimes you'll see the chain...follow it with your eyes...find the drag...then WOW...where'd HE come from!! lynx
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Post by mostinterestingmanintheworld on Sept 30, 2006 9:28:39 GMT -6
That's exactly what I do Lynx. When I see the trap gone I just stop and spend a little time surveying the immediate area.
I look for chewed up brush first, pan cover next if I used one and drag marks.
Sometimes I've walked right past the cat on the way in.
I also keep my ears open because a coyote many times will move and make the pan or chain clank.
Joel
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Post by MickMcLaughlin on Sept 30, 2006 9:46:44 GMT -6
I have never used drags, just can't bring myself to do it.
There is nothing worse than coming to a set and seeing a trap missing.
Steve, I would bet dollars to donuts that your beagle will atleast trail a yote, if you have never broke him.
I have a buddy who trailed a yote over a mile with a rat terrier.
Dogs are drawn to coyotes, and there is something about one in danger that will just turns a dog on.
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Post by rionueces on Sept 30, 2006 10:08:14 GMT -6
My experience tells me that they won't go to far. Even in fairly open country yotes tend to get hung up in the nearest patch of brush. A good dog will help. Your dog will probably work just fine. Let him fool around with a couple of them first, and he will catch on to the game real fast.
I really like using drags, the tracking of the animal and clanking of the chains out in the brush adds a whole new level of excitement to the trapline. Using drags down here is a necessity since the ground is too often hard or rocky to pound a stake.
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Post by Stef on Sept 30, 2006 10:22:02 GMT -6
Here's 2 pics where you can see that coyote can really chew the brush...LoL Stef
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