your coyote traps and why...

[Drew]

guys, newbie to coyote trapping and I am ready to buy my traps for the upcoming season...however, after reading and searching I still am not sure on what to buy.

I'd like to get an idea of what everyone else uses and why..

[trappnman]

I use more Duke 1.75s than anything else- and have caught a lot of cooytes i nthem. But they are far from the idela ooyte trap-everything has to be "right on" to have them be effective. I have about zero problem holding cooytes i nthem, but do get a lot of instances when I get misses- that is, coyotes visit the set but fail to step on the pan.

Good guiding is a must, as is making sure the trap doesn't fire when a cooyte is half on the pan and half on a jaw- this is taken care of, at least the way I do it, but packing solid inside the jaws using a trappers cap.

Short chains and double stakes are mandatory- although cable disposibles work too.

Severla years ago, I tried using Bridger #2, 4 coled modifed, and while I like the trap vis a vis holding and catching coyotes, its too much of a pain to get it smooth enough to not leave cuts.

Tried the Montana #3 last year, and am very impressed with it as far as catching coyotes. Being able to use a screen o na larger trap is a for sure bonus.

Others like even bigger traps.

The 1.75 is a good choice if you have a lot of incidentals, both domestic and furbearers. It can be used without modifcations and is kind to all animals.

Bigger traps need more modifcations if you have incidentals.

[Traveler]

I use Bridger No.2's,4-coiled,jaws laminated base plated and center swiveled with the dog also reinforced.For a chain set up I have a crunch proof swivel coming off the base plate and 18" of no.3 machine chain with either one or two more crunch proof swivels in between with a double stake swivel on the end.The reason is simply because this works for me in my conditions and soil type.Our average coyote weighs in at 32 lbs. and I've taken many in the 40 pound range.I've never had this set up fail me.One reason for the 18" chain length is to take a little pressure off my stakes if the ground gets soft(and in this country....when is it ever not soft) plus it gives me a little more room to clean a trap up after a catch.

[blakcoyote]

After using the #3 montana this past season,I sold all my traps and switched over to all montana's.They bed nice,hold well,and there dogless.My previous set up was,the #2 monty dogless,and the 1 3/4 NW fully modified,they work well,but like Steve mentioned about the problems with misses.My chains on the montana and my others traps before,are a nail swivel off the baseplate,4 link of #3 chain,crunch proof or nail swivel,then 4 link of chain,then a MB crunch proof swivel.I used to go smaller traps beefed up with the idea that it was easier on incidentals,such as dogs,but after using the modified #3,I can see it being just as easy on incidentals as well,but not compromising it's effectiveness on coyotes.

[Rainman]

Last year was my first for canines and I used Duke 1.75's OS with a 3/16 baseplate, blakcoyote's chain setup, bubbled jaw tips, and a laminated dog. I only caught 2 'yotes in these traps last season, but they held well and caused little to no damage. I aslo staked with Berkshire disposables. The traps sustained no damage. Hopefully, if I get off my lazy duff this year, I'll be able to get a better grasp on their durability.

[Mallard]

Bridger #2 Offset with base plates and inside lams here. Haven't 4-coiled them, and don't see the need. Once the initial filing of sharp edges is done, they are a solid reliable trap, and to date have been user friendly on the fox feet as well. Have sold the rest and now run these exclusively, aside from a handful of #2 monty RJ's. Not much faith in the 1.75's as far as holding strength, and as well agree with the above statement about all things needing to be right on. have had pullouts on 3 different manufacturer's of 1.75's, and think a #2 (not the older Vic Square jaws) of any make can be tuned into a fine coyote trap. I would most likley use pure montie #2 round jaws if I could get my hands on any before DJ gets to them. ;D

[vttrapper]

Bridger #3 offset, full mods,, 20 inches of #3 machine chain with 3 coyote proof swivels either cable staked or grappled. Big kill area, solidly built, and for me the best affordable coyote trap. I do all my own modifications.

frank

[chub618]

drew your going to get alot of answers on this one. cost effective wise and ease of bedding i would steer you to the 1 3/4 duke and if that seems to small go with a #3 montana. personally i like traps that you can no longer purchse new like the #2 montgomery RJ.

[Bubber]

We use #3 longsprings.

We do not have fox around this part of the state so we can get away with using a larger trap. We also catch cats with the same trap. Plus even the most inexperianced yuppie could figure out how to turn their dog loose from a longspring.

[K9Wolfer]

Hmmmmmmmmm what do I like........... LOL

[chub618]

[walkercoonhunter(Aaron L.)]

i use 1.75 duke rjawed traps for my land line...we have far more fox than yotes here and a bigger trap is not so animal friendly when your talking grey fox..so i just stick with the 1.75 trap..it does a fine job for fox,coon,and a fine job on yotes for all the more we have in my part of pa....i think the ideal all round best trap for the average trapper is a 1.75 size trap...now if your targeting just yotes and have a high ## catch every year like bob and them i would probally use a bigger trap..but then the pan tension would be higher so i didnt catch alot of non targeted animals...

[Possum]

I use #4 Sleepy Creeks which are the same size as a #3 Bridger. In my state they have to be offset to be legal. I offset and laminated the first batch I bought and that worked great. I've bought another couple dozen factory offset which work perfect right out of the box but are a bit harder on the foot than the ones I laminated with 3/36 square stock. I trap in sandy soil and have no need for 4 coiling. In over 200 catches, only once did I have a coyote hooked long enough to make a catch circle and then escape.
If you like fiddling with your toys, buy a cheap trap then spend 5 or 10 bucks plus your time modifying them. I'd rather buy a trap and plunk it in the ground with confidence. One other point, the cost between a dozen cheap traps and a dozen good traps is about one good coyote pelt. How many coyote pelts are you going to loose because you used a cheap trap? How many are you going to gain by using a better-built, slightly more expensive trap?

[Drew]

keep the good advice coming guys! I think I may run up to a trapping convention and pick of a couple of several different kinds and sizes, to experiment with and see which ones i prefer.

[17kiss]

For stright cat or coyote work , a Bridger #3 wins in my book , hands down. Laminations and powered up are the least I would do if planning on holding 99% of catches.

[briankroberts]

Bridger No. 3's are about as good as it gets for a good dependable Coyote trap, if you do your part with these traps you'll have very few misses and almost zero losses.
Top notch coyote trap if used right.....B.....

[Smitty]

3 traps ...#2 offset Sleepy Creek.....#2 montys...and cold weather tactics...#2 K-9 Wolfer..all coil springs..all short chained and double staked.........nuff said

[mostinterestingmanintheworld]

For coyotes I still prefer a 3n over any coil spring made.

Maybe old fashioned but I just know how to catch a coyote in a longspring.

Cats are a whole different story although a 3n is one of my favorite cat traps as well.

Joel

[3n]

[Creek]

Bridger #3`s here also.
I use to use nothing but Montgomery #3 until I tried the Bridgers. Sold all the Monty`s