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Post by Edge on Apr 8, 2004 20:11:09 GMT -6
HMMMM,foxes,foxes,foxes.......oh yeah,little red furballs;I remember them vaguely.That might be a go depending on when...I need someplace to be during nov 15 to nov 23,24.Its the orange invasion here and I am getting old;I can no longer trust my self not to shoot back. If I can make gas money,liscense and a few extra bucks thats good enough for me. That,and being able to trap from the truck....no walky-walky for me..its like running,but slower,yuck.
Edge
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Post by dj88ryr on Apr 8, 2004 20:27:54 GMT -6
That would be prime time for foxes here. I took half of my seasons total take between Nov 1st and Thanksgiving. We can talk about it when you come down, and we can do a walkabout, or rideabout over the territory and see what you think. I have about 10,000 acres give or take of farms that I have sole permission to trap on. I didn't even scratch the surface last year. Had visions of getting 300 traps in the ground LMAO, the most I could keep up and running were 80.
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Post by MChewk on Apr 9, 2004 6:06:17 GMT -6
Four coiling ISN'T necessary BUT the springs on the trap better be strong enough to close the jaws NOW. I use alot of #2 with #3 music wire springs on them. If I laminate I usually four coil. we got into a 4-coil craze there for a while and I truly believe more animals were harvested because of it. Guys some trappers do not do a thing to their traps besides clean and dye them. In their mind if it worked last year it SHOULD work this year. To me adding spring strength be it costly, unnecessary, or not adds to odds to catch and hold the majority of my intended animals.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 9, 2004 6:16:22 GMT -6
"Guys, some trappers do not do a thing to their traps besides clean and dye them."
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Post by dj88ryr on Apr 9, 2004 8:10:23 GMT -6
;D
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Post by dj88ryr on Apr 9, 2004 8:13:37 GMT -6
Wonder how long it will take the area you scrape with the brush to start rusting?? I think I will continue replacing the trap.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 9, 2004 22:16:08 GMT -6
Good post. Stef sayes he 4 coils all his no 3's. I too have found 4 coiling to be a big advantage on larger traps too. The bigger the trap, the more power it needs. I dont go hog wild if 4 coling, J.C taos springs or used 1.5 springs seem plenty to me on No 3 coils. A lot has to do with ground conditions and trap check intervils. Subzero temps and moisture 4 coiling would be a big advantage. power on both jaws help when stuff gets frozen in. 3 day checks out west 4 coiling would be a big advantage. On no 2 bridgers I put no 3 music wire in and do pretty good. I do lose an occasional hind foot coyote in them here and there and I suppose 4 coiling would save me a coyote or 2 every year. 4 coiling can be hard on critters you need to let go so that enters into the equation too. I cant see really needing 4 coiled traps on stuff under a no 2 size. Music wire upgrades should give all the power you need. Thicker lamination will nessecitate more power on a trap too. 4 coiled traps can be awful hard on the fingers too. I also hate trying to get my big clumsy thumb under the pan of 4 coiled no 2 sized traps when setting them. Another mix into the mess would be trap chain length. Depends, depends, depends i guess. Didnt really give any good answears I guess did I? Just more questions to ponder. ;D
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Post by trappnman on Apr 10, 2004 6:17:55 GMT -6
I agree- chain length is directly tied to the need to 4 coil.
and... just as or more important, are guiding and tension.
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Post by trapper92256 on Apr 10, 2004 7:28:38 GMT -6
I 4 coiled all 5 of my bridger # 2s. I just like the reassurance that i can sift a little for on my trap bed and my trap is still going to pop up. And idont have to worry as much about freezing as much either. I got a duke 1.75 to try next year and its 2 coiled. I cant wait to see how the bridger and dukes compare!
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Post by trappnman on Apr 10, 2004 8:33:25 GMT -6
Those are the 2 traps I currently use, set up the same way.
The 4 coiled Bridger allows some leeway in setting, conditions, etc.
The 1.75 do not.
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Post by lonetrapper on Apr 14, 2004 18:02:50 GMT -6
just recieved bridger no #3 4 coiled bought before i read this post ,never went for coyotes before in leg holds,i thought you had to 4 coil ,that is all you read about so i bought them.anyway what else do i have to do to them to hold coyotes,not looking to do anything extra to them unless i have to ,do i have to base plate ,laminate,the chain is factory with swivels at beginning and at end of chain.
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Post by 17kiss on Apr 14, 2004 19:06:50 GMT -6
Pull the extra springs off , add a swivel in middle and adjust pan. In 2 years put your 4 coil springs back on.
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Post by Stef on Apr 14, 2004 19:11:55 GMT -6
Think you're from Canada so the Bridger #3 "WILL" need to be laminated ΒΌ" round rod inside and 3/16" round rod outside, 4 coils, center swiveling. It is needed for 2007.
Stef
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Post by 17kiss on Apr 14, 2004 20:35:23 GMT -6
OOPS! Did not see that Stef. With lams def. power up.
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Post by Zagman on Apr 15, 2004 5:30:58 GMT -6
Laminations aside, when I think of four-coiling, I think of mud and snow and dirt and ice.....not holding the coyote.
Ever notice that when you get banged while setting a trap that's already got sifted dirt on it, it does not sting as much as when you get hit on the work bench?
That dirt takes some of the POP out of the trap.....
Now, put some mud and snow on top and how much of the POP is gone?....
I wont even get into bedding your traps deeper, more dirt over the traps and the positive reasons for doing that.....that is CM's forte'......
In my area, I am money ahead (and I have proven it to myself enough now with enough coyotes) that I know a large, powerful trap suits me best.....
I will use the Montana's, but they WILL be four-coiled, even though I know DJ has stated they will hold any coyote alive 2-coiled......I just gotta break through some crap before I grab a paw.....
Zags
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Post by z on Apr 15, 2004 6:28:56 GMT -6
I say the montana needs stronger springs......But, their is no room. A replacement pair of music wire springs do not fit. The pin does not sit in the groove with the extra "wrap" of the heavier, stronger, music wire springs.
Steve, You use that trap 2 coiled with the stock chain I will bet you whatever you wish you will have foot movement in the trap. Some will say end swiveling is the way to go, maybe with short chains.........
I'll still center swivel all my land traps, And I don't care who says what..........Zz
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Post by Zagman on Apr 15, 2004 6:39:41 GMT -6
I think a "weak" set of JC's helpers will do the trick, like the one's Mr. Wendt uses on the softies.....
Z and I agree, on a dogless trap, they are easier to set/grab the pan to engage it with the jaw, if it is NOT 4-coiled, as the extra coils "block" the edge of the pan and it can be tough to grab.....
So, on all my #3 Dogless Monties, I have 2-coiled them with new, strong #3/#4 Monty Music wires, and they seem fine....
I was hoping to do the same with the Montana, but Z has my traps and tried it, and it won't work.....they won't fit....
So, we either 4-coil or just go with the modified version.....
I have no interest in experimenting with the stock trap, plenty of guys on here will be doing that and filling us in as to the results....
Zags
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Post by trappnman on Apr 15, 2004 6:45:27 GMT -6
Yes- I'll be running them stock-
Still undecided on reg or offset- and I'm NOT going to run 50/50 LOL. Once I decide, all my eggs will go into that basket...
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Post by trapper92256 on Apr 15, 2004 7:28:09 GMT -6
I noticed on the Duke 1.75 the hole for center swiveling is not really in the center. It is on the piece metal that helps stabilise the trap. Is this where you center swivel?
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Post by CoonDuke on Apr 15, 2004 7:32:30 GMT -6
If you want to center swivel...you might as well baseplate them. It will add strength as well as a anchor point.
I never understood those "crimp on" center locaters. Why not just baseplate??
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