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Post by Stef on Dec 3, 2011 12:13:29 GMT -6
Did a little trapping with them.
Yes I did test them 2 years ago for the FIC but I did not use them for fur trapping since the past week.
Cool for what?
-Can set them very close to the road-people etc...
-Fast
-light weight
-hot coon "skinning"
-many more etc...
What's cool with live trapped coon is that they don't move much.
They are always sleeping or just relax and sun shinning their bellies. They are almost invisible from the road even for us who know where the traps are.
What I hate is to kill the coons.
Close to people of traffic roads....
(no hand gun here BTW)
A riffle in the trapper arms can be spotted fast by curious.
Even the sound of a short 22 can bring Mr curious close to your trap sets.
Blood
etc...
Yes I know I can kill coon with 160-220 etc.. Attached to a pole but sometime.... their "screaming" are worst than the sound of my 22 riffle.
And sometimes with some coons... Its a little tricky getting the coon heads inside the trap.
Anyway... In some areas... DP traps open the doors and its a tool trappers wouldn't want a loss.
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Post by redeagle on Dec 3, 2011 13:20:44 GMT -6
A club won't leave blood if you hit them right.
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myst
Demoman...
Posts: 113
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Post by myst on Dec 3, 2011 14:56:45 GMT -6
can you use a air rifle? or is that the same as a gun?
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Post by trappnman on Dec 3, 2011 15:51:20 GMT -6
pm'd you stef
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Post by motrapperjohn on Dec 3, 2011 16:12:43 GMT -6
They got some nice air pistols or would thay be illegal in Canada
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Post by musher on Dec 3, 2011 18:56:32 GMT -6
Whenever I've clubbed a coon they were either instantly dead or it took a thousand other bops to kill them. Not much fun for the trapper or the coon.
Choking them isn't the best either. They don't go like a lynx.
Stef: the Henry Mini Bolt i22 is on sale until Dec. 15 at Cabela's Canada. $200 and you have one. They are pretty small compared to a regular .22. They are also really tough and require zero maintenance.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 4, 2011 10:37:04 GMT -6
what I pm'd stef-
take a 36" piece of 1/2 in rebar, weld a big nut on the end.
1 full swing with all your might, crossways on the bridge of the nose below the eyes with the nut hitting the center of the nose, is a quick and clean kill 99% of the time.
also is 1 shot on the occasional live beaver as well.
If you want to be fancy, wrap the other end 6-8" with enough tape to give you a good hold and grip.
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Post by gcs on Dec 5, 2011 7:35:09 GMT -6
Have the same problems as Stef.
I use a 18" 3/4" steel pipe nipple with a cap on the end. Same difference in a smaller package, and you don't have to swing like Babe Ruth.
Lot of thunk in a 3/4" pipe.
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Post by calvin on Dec 5, 2011 11:12:43 GMT -6
T man has it for a club, IMO. I/ve tried about all that is available...and rebar is the best. I have 30" coyote stakes that seem to fit real well (nut on the top) but found if even shortening it by 6" and sometimes you have problems with the big boar northern coon.
I learned long ago not to even attempt killing coon with wood. And nothing more dense than rebar. Density and speed are key. I/m not a fan of anything hollow (pipe).
That said I have gone to shooting almost all my coon with a solid point .22...unless I/m in an area where I can't....Then the rebar works better than anything else I/ve tried.
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Post by schweg2 on Dec 5, 2011 15:44:47 GMT -6
Whenever I've clubbed a coon they were either instantly dead or it took a thousand other bops to kill them. Not much fun for the trapper or the coon. I've had the same results...tough critters they are. |
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Post by musher on Dec 5, 2011 19:12:42 GMT -6
I have an aluminum bat in the truck for my bopping. Works great on fox. Not so good on that coon I caught.
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Post by renny1 on Dec 6, 2011 5:36:42 GMT -6
Best I have found is to tap on noggin to stun, then roll onto back and expose throat. One moderate to heavy swat and it is done. No blood or bruising. Must be straight on the center of throat. Check to make sure pupils are fixed and dilated and it is over. works on coyotes as well.
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Post by mustelameister on Dec 6, 2011 6:22:56 GMT -6
I #220d thousands of 'coon out of cage traps in local parks. Got fairly good at it. Yea, some of 'em do get a bit vocal. That's when you get a boot in the middle of their back and stand on 'em 'till they expire.
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Post by mtcbrlatrap on Dec 6, 2011 8:22:16 GMT -6
I stun them with a club which is a piece of boat oar cut off and then either dispatch with 22 short or a 160. By stunning them most of the time they don't squeal in the 160s. I had one that really created a disturbance.
As to the clubbing and dispatching I can see that the rebar with the nut that Steve uses has significant mechanical advantage over say a bat or a larger circumference club. The impact force per square inch etc. with he heavy yet smaller rebar with the nut can create a lot more impact force at the target point. I can see however some learning curve to hit the correct spot consistently and that is the key to any ethical dispatch.
Bryce
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Post by gcs on Dec 6, 2011 11:50:49 GMT -6
Aluminum ball bats aren't consistent for coon, good thing it was dark that time.
The 3/4" pipe is "hollow", but there is NO give in it, small diameter = lots of PSI delivered.
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Noel
Skinner...
Posts: 80
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Post by Noel on Dec 6, 2011 18:30:45 GMT -6
Ill have to try the rebar. Been using a 2' wooden club and chest stomp. Ill never shoot a coon again.
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Post by Gasconade on Dec 15, 2011 10:11:57 GMT -6
The back side of a tile spade has worked the best for me.
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