small mud motor?

[cmr2]

believe that mud buddy and go-devil also ,think its niche market that is /has all of them going at it

[calvin]

Seems the Longtails are a fair amount heavier than the surface drive models. The Dixie 10hp surfacedrive is said to be 93lbs. That may be a decent option. Anything over 100lbs getting un-portable.

[cmr2]

size of boat will determ the size of motor ,14ft and under it will move nice from what I'm reading ,they reconmind it for around a 12ft boat ,but if your not running in the muck like they show than it should run great ,geuss the open water or the marsh

[mustelameister]

keep in mind that 14-foot boats are easier to get up on plane than are 12-foot boats

those two extra feet are a big deal when dealing with small horsepower motors

[rk660]

Ive seen the same thing too Mike, 12 fters draft deeper and harder to get on plane with same hp, as a 14. I almost feel a 12 fter isnt really worth having any more.

[calvin]

The same reason I sold my 12ft and went to the 14ft. Also, I had the narrower 1232 that sank down too far in the water... which when the boat wasn't on plane the prop on my conventional motor was much further down compared to a wider boat that drafted less water. The weight of a guy and a heavy motor could just about swamp a narrow jon from the rear. Wider is harder to get into some areas but narrower drafts more water. I went to the 1440 and am pretty satisfied on on both aspects.

[mustelameister]

Here's an interesting boat one might consider with the smaller mud motors you fellas are talking about.



Billed as "cartoppable" . . weighing in at 125 pounds, one could easily slide this boat off the roof racks or back of a truck then down a bank to the water. Getting it back up the bank could be easily done by just tying a rope to it and the trailer hitch and driving it back up the incline.

www.castlecraft.com/laker_meyers.htm

If you look vertically down at the boat on the website, most of it is flat bottomed. The V-bow would allow you to nicely part the cattails and such to scoot your way through with a mud motor.

I've never seen one of these in action, but would be a consideration with what you're looking for.

[calvin]

I can surely see an advantage to that boat, Mike. I like my flatbottom and really like working off the front deck but for cutting through the cattails the one above would likely be hard to beat.

[cmr2]

after reading your post on this style boat and you telling of the benifets I've been looking at that style boat,and running on of the mud motors ,
One of the areas Im in is silt bottom and has narrow places in it ,what would be the general cenius on areas like this as far as open water maybe on the river, but its the shallow marsh like areas that I'm targeting ,
Not long lineing or plans yet to but to be able to open up some areas for myself and get out of being land locked

[calvin]

One other aspect of these mud motors is "neutral" and "Reverse" options. Have heard to make sure you get one with at least one of the above. Maybe it doesn't matter as much on a small craft. It appears the ones I/ve looked at are only forward drive. It seems weird that a guy can't at least put the thing in neutral (when setting traps). Any comments from those who/ve use them?

[kelly]

I believe the vast majority of "mud motors" longtail and small shortails are always in drive/forward only.

[ringtail]

I seen plans on ebay on building mud motors. Has anyone tried this?

[trappnman]

a heads up- sometime in the first part of July, mustelameister will be hosting a chat on trappng boats, motors, etc- if we can get some of you to come on as well- would be a lot of info

[calvin]

I talked to one company and they said one with reverse is in the works but it builds up too much heat as is. I know some of the larger units have the features and know some have regretted not getting the one with reverse or at least neutral on it.

Just seems reall weird that they wouldn't at least have a neutral.

[mustelameister]

May 28, 2011 12:12:43 GMT -6 calvin said:

One other aspect of these mud motors is "neutral" and "Reverse" options. It seems weird that a guy can't at least put the thing in neutral (when setting traps). Any comments from those who/ve use them?

Don't need neutral or reverse. Take a look at that first pic I posted with that 9 horse Honda running. The boat ain't moving but the motor is idling with the prop just splashing the water.

I've got a rope tied to the floor of the boat under a rib then back up with a bowline knot tied just at the right spot so the handle of the mud motor can slide into that when you're not using it and it will keep the prop up out of the water.

I've got two of these tied in there and use the second one when trailering the rig just in case one breaks due to wear from the rib. You sort of get used to sliding that handle in there after awhile and don't even think about it.

[calvin]

Thanks Mike....I see the rope now. From what I understand the surface drive units are more of a fixed deal which wouldn't allow you to do this? But, maybe at idle in wouldn't have much thrust.

I think that 9hp runs about 140lbs. How much of a pain is it for you when it comes time to take that motor off and on...or you just keep it on? Maybe with the long tail you can just put it on your shoulder for carrying. I have a thing against keeping my motors outside over the winter.

Good stuff...thanks Mike.

[mustelameister]

I really don't know much about the surface drives. Would be best to find someone who has one and go for a ride.

The 140 lb mark is reaching my limits for taking something off a transom and sliding it here or there. With recent rotator cuff issues I've gone to winches and block and tackle for moving a lot of stuff now, including hoisting big beaver off the floor.

That motor certainly isn't one you'd want to take off and on daily.

Another point of consideration in this discussion is your transom height. Go Devil, and I'm not sure about the others, makes motors to fit two transoms: 15" and 20". You really can't put a motor built for a 15" transom on a 20" transom boat and expect regular operation. You're going to have problems with getting the prop to run at the right elevation. The angle from motor mount to water is very important. Something to consider.

When you get a longtail, you'll have to tinker with the butt end of the cavitation plate a little. Bending it up will cause it to run deeper, bending it down with lift it. Easily done with a pair of vice grips.

The sweet spot is when you're zipping along and you can look back there and just see the cavitation plate under the surface. No need to run it any deeper than you have to.

Maybe with the long tail you can just put it on your shoulder for carrying.

Maybe in my younger days . . . before my hernia.

I have a thing against keeping my motors outside over the winter.

I don't think it's a big deal keeping them outside. I've got a block and tackle I rig up in a tree and back the boat up to it so the motor is directly below that big limb. The motor comes with a couple of mounts above that you can tie off to.

Raise the transom by lowering the trailer tongue all the way to the ground, then hook onto your block and tackle. Loosen up the two bolts attaching your mud motor to the transom (on the Go Devil), then raise the trailer tongue and pull the boat out from underneath the motor.

You could then gently lower the motor onto a wheeled mechanism for transporting to wherever you want. I just lower it to the ground and swing it a bit around the backside of the tree and rest it on some firewood chunks. Then cover it good with a canvas tarp.

Before I do that I run Stabil through it for a good 15 minutes then disconnect the gas hose and let the engine run out of gas. Never have had problems in that department.

The other Go Devil gets used enough in the winter I don't winterize it, but I do start it up every weekend and let it run.

Another thing, keep some bar bait under there for the furry little critters to eat and die. Also plug up your air intake.

Keep your shaft greased. You may sometimes have a little water run in there. If you're going to run in freezing weather, keep an ammo box in the boat with a propane tube and torch. You may discover that your shaft has enough water (if you've got poor seals) that it's frozen up tight. Running that lit torch along the shaft for a minute or so will do the trick.

Another area which can prove to be a pain is the throttle cable. If you're running all fall and get into some rain, eventually some of that water will find its way down into the throttle cable. Come freezing temps you won't be able to move the cable through its sleeve.

Go Devil sells a little kit you can buy where you can shoot WD-40 up that sleeve and that problem will disappear.

[calvin]

Good stuff. Thanks Mike.

The transom height is something I/ll have to check on before purchasing. I added a plate that raised up my transom about 2 inches so my outboard rides as high as possible without sucking air..or hitting rocks.

[cmr2]

some of the surface drives have aa locking pin under the motor for transit ,or have hydro trim or have the rope ,
saw that some have electric clutshs to engage (bigger motors) the prop and the reverse was in a set up the same way(gator trax)is the one i believe
prodrive reverse is that that drive is swung in to piont in (under the boat) so reverse is actically swinging the lower drive with the motor in same position
youtube is full of nvideos on them MMt all mud motors is/has some good views on a few of the surface drives and look around can find every dealer has video

thanks for all that posted this is a great topic and has had some great dissusions ,thanks to all that replied
thanks mustelameister for your posts great insights from your experance

[jwr64]

monroe.craigslist.org/spo/2405174141.html