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Post by freepop on Mar 3, 2011 17:49:04 GMT -6
F & T has a pretty good deal on the Duke #4's right now. At the price they are selling for I think I am going to give them a try this next year. You're gonna lose weight carrying those heavy traps around 
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Post by Aaron.F on Mar 4, 2011 9:13:01 GMT -6
Yeah, I hope so. I felt like a few of my misses this year might have been due to small a jaw spread, mostly when the snow got piled up though. I prefer the #2 Bridger as a compromise, but when the #4 Dukes are significantly cheaper than the Bridgers its an easy choice.
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orcatdog
Demoman...
"Tallest Town in Oregon"
Posts: 219
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Post by orcatdog on Mar 7, 2011 9:25:09 GMT -6
I was born and raised on bridger traps. I have a tatoo of a #3 bridger on my arm and my trapline dog's name is Bridger.
But... After trapping with my partner for the past couple years who uses nothing but the #4 / 4 coiled Dukes, I have seen absolutely no difference in catch / misses/ etc. So even with a few mods, I hate to say it, but I can get a dozen Dukes for significantly less than the Bridgers. Especially if you start beefing up the Bridgers.
I'm not a rich man, so this year I'm adding a few dozen Dukes to the basket.
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Post by garman on Mar 7, 2011 10:11:13 GMT -6
I was born and raised on bridger traps. I have a tatoo of a #3 bridger on my arm and my trapline dog's name is Bridger. But... After trapping with my partner for the past couple years who uses nothing but the #4 / 4 coiled Dukes, I have seen absolutely no difference in catch / misses/ etc. So even with a few mods, I hate to say it, but I can get a dozen Dukes for significantly less than the Bridgers. Especially if you start beefing up the Bridgers. I'm not a rich man, so this year I'm adding a few dozen Dukes to the basket. The design looked almost exactly the same to me. |
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Post by mudflap on Mar 9, 2011 23:28:02 GMT -6
RR, normally I lurk quielty and enjoy reading the varied information presented. I recently moved back from Alaska to our home in NW Wyoming. I have been a lucky fellow, trapping a few coyotes during high school, then once I made a decision to live and breath coyote trapping, I progressed to trapping coyotes during the fur rage and which led into my college daze trapping summers for Colo. Div. of Wildlife mule deer/ coyote mortality studies, which led me to a job and career working for USDA Animal Damage Control (before it became Wildlife Services), then up to Alaska for 10 years working with larger predators. For 14 years, I bounced along in a pickup as a trapper or District Supervisor in three western states with some of the finest coyote men the great west has to offer. Through the years, most of these fellas became proficient with all the tools, from M-44s, denning, aerial hunting, traps, snares, calling, etc., but a rare few evolved into incredibly gifted coyote trappers. With these trappers, an unfortunate coyote whelped or crossing into "their" county is without doubt going to have an early retirement. No doubt there are a great number of fine coyote men out there, unfortunately, I have just not had the fortune to share a nights encampment with most. But, for the past 30 years (since I have been privledged to be part of unravelling day to day coyote riddles) these fellows and I have field tested and used most every trap hailed during its time, from the Newhouse, Victor 3N, Montgomery, Northwoods, Sterling, Jake, and Duke, (and others). My thoughts are "for the money" your on track. I have ran both #3 Bridgers and #4 Dukes the past two seasons (since my return to WY). I personally feel they compare much like Fords and Chevys, as each have minor pros and cons, BUT either would work well for you. Especially if you like to tinker as most trappers. All of my larger canine and cat traps have PIT pans and other general mods, just makes good sense for too many reasons to mention here. Each of us have opinions, and mine is just another. However, no matter which trap you choose, an off-season spent scouting, planning, and getting your equipment and supplies ready to go, plus outworking the "other guys" will make most any good trap "shine" come fall. Best of all - have fun and good luck!
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Post by trappnman on Mar 10, 2011 8:09:19 GMT -6
mudflap- I hope it isn't another year before you post again!
I'd love to hear some of your thoughts on coyotes.
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Post by Aaron.F on Mar 10, 2011 9:05:04 GMT -6
Mudflap
I appreciate you voicing your opinion and I second what trappnman said.
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orcatdog
Demoman...
"Tallest Town in Oregon"
Posts: 219
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Post by orcatdog on Mar 10, 2011 15:14:54 GMT -6
Mudflap,
Me too, I would love to hear some stories. Hope to see your input a lot more.
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Post by seldom on Mar 10, 2011 15:34:26 GMT -6
Here's a quick, out-of-the-box summary of the differences between a Bridger #3 OS and the #4 OS Duke not withstanding the obvious center connector difference.
1. Levers don't come up as far on the Dukes by lacking about 1/2" then the Bridger.
2. The Duke's off-set is quite a bit shorter by 3/4" off both ends which is 1.5" less in off set length over all. Meaning the off set stops about 3/8" before the bend of the jaws.
3. The Duke's base is thinner then the Bridger.
4. The spring pins are smaller diameter on the Dukes vs. the Bridger. They may be harder but they are smaller in diameter.
When I start to handle them for the mods there may be more difference but those were the most obvious when I broke the box.
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Post by nightstalker1 on Mar 10, 2011 16:07:07 GMT -6
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Post by mudflap on Mar 10, 2011 16:19:44 GMT -6
Tx for the gracious welcome Trappnman, Bigwhiskey, and Orcatdog: I have always appreciated the knowledge and years of actual trapline experience that many others and yourselves willingly share daily on this site. I think when it comes to catching coyotes, we all end up using the tools and methods that we believe best, at this moment in time. Seems almost an untruth, as many would say, “trappers are a hard breed to change.” But, the past 25-30 years have brought many “available” changes to our tools of trade. Quicker change perhaps than those who came before us and coyote trapped the 30s thru the 70s, mostly with inferior equipment or the lucky few who set the benchmark Newhouses or V. 3Ns of that day. This brings light to RR’s original question, and the fact that many assorted tools (be it Bridger, Duke, or other) will get the job done in the hands of the right man. With that said, I seem to spend alot more time adding mods than some as I really don't know if I have ever set a stock trap, except back in my youth. As trappers we are individuals (I hope you and others always remain as such) as the good coyote men that I have come to know, seem to quickly smell a “rat” and few are swift to leap onto another’s bandwagon because it is “popular.” We say it is so, simply because we have seen…….(repeatedly).
Back about 1980 or so, I left Colorado for another temp. gov’t trapper job in Utah, and within six months ended up with a full-time position in Oregon. In those days (maybe still today) I would have cut off my arm just for a chance to sit in the shadows of a nights encampment and listen to the ole wolfers tell their stories of bringing some savy individual coyote to its doom. Well, as it happened, late that first summer, Oregon ADC had a 3-4 day campout (State ADC Convention) and I got to drive down with one of the retired old-timers (respectfully stated). His name was Warren J. and he had spent his entire adult life trapping coyotes and black bears for the outfit. Once down the road a piece – after Warren had listened to a few tales of my prolific trapping skills, He quietly said to me: I know you have trapped a few coyotes, but when you get down to this here meeting, son, the best advice I can give you is this: “The more you tell these coyote men all you know about coyotes, the more your telling them what you don’t know.” Long pause here. Probably some of the best advice I was ever given. So, I sat, listened, and learned! Since, I have hired and trained quite a few coyote men thru the years and I have been given more than I gave, all pieces which add to the coyote puzzle. I still remember Warren’s advice. He was quite a man! So, T-Man, I guess that’s why I often sit on the sidelines and enjoy reading the varied posts, knowledge, and differences among trappers, who are men in my eyes.
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Post by trappnman on Mar 10, 2011 18:53:26 GMT -6
don't have a clue as to your name, but with the experience you have, I don't care.
any coyote expertise I have, has been sharpened by several western trappers who ARE real coyote men.
Always willing to learn.
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Post by CoonDuke on Mar 10, 2011 18:53:42 GMT -6
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Mar 10, 2011 19:50:41 GMT -6
yes the offset does look smaller than a 3 bridger. Also coon duke wondering what you have the pan tension at with that bend? I leave mine straight on the bridgers and have 3- 3.5 lbs of pan tension.
Also I see twin loop chain versus wleded link like on the bridgers? I like welded link chain for sure, but even on the bridgers look close as once in awhile you will find a link with a poor weld job, overall though chain is good on the bridgers, but I have also replaced some with #2 american chain through the years as well.
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Post by robertw on Mar 10, 2011 20:11:30 GMT -6
TC39,
The trap with the twin link chain is not a #4.
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Post by CoonDuke on Mar 10, 2011 20:33:39 GMT -6
It is a little over 3 pounds set up with stock main springs and #2 Bridger helpers.
I prefer stock mains and 1 1/2 music wire helpers but the tension was through the roof.
I am using Sullivans tester and do not trust it...I think it reads high. I might try to check it with water bottles.
Credit goes to Waddell for the idea of the big spring pin. It really makes a difference.
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Post by seldom on Mar 11, 2011 6:31:23 GMT -6
It is a little over 3 pounds set up with stock main springs and #2 Bridger helpers.
I prefer stock mains and 1 1/2 music wire helpers but the tension was through the roof.
I am using Sullivans tester and do not trust it...I think it reads high. I might try to check it with water bottles.
Credit goes to Waddell for the idea of the big spring pin. It really makes a difference. Coonduke or Robert, with using the 1/4" spring pin, is there any torquing of the spring pin ends down when you are using either the 11/2 music wires or the #2 springs as helpers? With my Bridgers and standard spring pins I need to use a clip across the spring pin ends to keep them from bending. |
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Post by CoonDuke on Mar 11, 2011 6:48:50 GMT -6
My beaver traps have #3 music mains and #1.5 music helpers and there is no warping or bending of anything and the loose jaw lays dead flat.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Mar 11, 2011 7:47:29 GMT -6
coon duke, so your using the heavy (1.5) helpers for beaver trapping only?
As I see little need in going that heavy for a coyote trap. I use the milligan springs at .99 a pair and they are great on my laminated jawed bridgers, plenty of power but not too heavy.
Why didn't they come with a heavier spring pin from the factory? Are there any changes to give them a stouter spring pin from the get go.
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Post by seldom on Mar 11, 2011 13:59:00 GMT -6
coon duke, so your using the heavy (1.5) helpers for beaver trapping only?
As I see little need in going that heavy for a coyote trap. I use the milligan springs at .99 a pair and they are great on my laminated jawed bridgers, plenty of power but not too heavy.
Why didn't they come with a heavier spring pin from the factory? Are there any changes to give them a stouter spring pin from the get go. TC, do you feel those Milligan helpers are stronger then the Bridger helpers? As far as spring pins go, the spring pins on my #3 Bridgers torqued badly with just their standard helpers!! Soft rod, because those springs were not strong compared to the Bridger helpers for my #2's. I made support/alignment clips out of 1/8" x 1/2" bar to hold the pins and tacked them to the end of the cross member(one with the two holes) and this works very well. It might be easier though to just make a heavier pin. By making a larger pin you should be able to control the slop at all contact points by proper size drilling. |
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