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Post by coonboy on Dec 2, 2008 23:07:49 GMT -6
What is the best lock for beavers with 1/16" 1x19 cable? Slim Lock ?
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Post by jessmatthews on Dec 2, 2008 23:59:09 GMT -6
I actually use micro locks, with dispatch springs, I have been killing everything in site, killed a 50lb beaver the other day stone cold dead, neck snared him........Rich Kaspar talked me out of getting the slim locks, and im glad he did the mirco locks are super fast, but if u wanted to kill everything in site and reuse the locks, the cam locks are the best.......
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Post by JWarren on Dec 3, 2008 11:04:11 GMT -6
hopefully its under ice or on drowners in which case the lock won't matter, on land that is not a good choice cable unless running every hour or you know how to neck snare them all due to fur damage and loss issues
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Post by bobwendt on Dec 3, 2008 11:09:51 GMT -6
I use all 1/8th and standard "L" lock, as most beaver are body caught and small cable causes severe pelt damage if , as warren says, not under ice. beaver are bulls and you can use big cable and slow locks, no worrys.
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Post by bobafett on Dec 3, 2008 13:07:20 GMT -6
Thats very interesting Bob, I have never heard of anyone using 1/8th for anything but drowing slide and wolves.
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Post by bobwendt on Dec 3, 2008 13:48:13 GMT -6
I use 1/8th on coon and coyotes and beaver exclusively. only go tiny on fox and cats. and have snared many of those in 1/8th accidental. fox especially, couldn`t count the fox in 1/8th. and for sure, I have no varmints running around dragging frayed in two snares and suffering. none of the 3/32 or 1/16th guys can say that, assuming they snare any amount at all. lol, unless poiss ant texas coyotes. you can use sewing thread to snare those dwarfs
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Post by Patrick on Dec 3, 2008 17:04:13 GMT -6
your state regs might dictate what locks are best for you. I know here in WI, we have to use "relaxing washers"...regardless of under ice or whatever, otherwise I would use cam-loks.
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Post by mustelameister on Dec 3, 2008 18:24:51 GMT -6
Paeatonhunting: Out of the Wisconsin regs:
• set, place or operate any snare unless the noose cable and noose attachments conform to the following specifi cations: 1. Cable length may not exceed 5 feet. 2. Cable must be galvanized aircraft cable. 3. The cable or wire diameter may not exceed 1∕8 inch. 4. It must have a relaxing mechanical lock and swivel. 5. It must be non-spring activated.
I brought this up to the warden at our last trapper ed class here in Sauk County. Asked him why beaver snares designed to drown beaver must have relaxing locks on them. I said all the beaver snares I use are nonrelaxing. Wouldn't make sense to have a snare lock relax once a beaver has taken the snare to the bottom of the drowner cable I said. And he agreed.
Doesn't make sense to me . . . Beav, if you're reading this, what's up here?
My guess is this is mixed up with cable restraint language:
6. Include a relaxing reverse-bend washer lock with a minimum outside diameter of 1¼ inches.
So what's a relaxing mechanical lock? All the snares I put together for beaver utilize the sure lock I get from the MTP folks and run it on 3/32" 7x7 GAC. Is this relaxing?
Not sure. But I've put this question on the back burner long enough and will look into it and post back here.
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Post by coonboy on Dec 3, 2008 21:42:40 GMT -6
What kind of choke spring on the slim locks the old style or the ones Steve sells?
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Post by robertw on Dec 3, 2008 22:10:35 GMT -6
You do not want a choke spring on a Slim lock.
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Post by coonboy on Dec 3, 2008 22:21:12 GMT -6
Do you use a choke spring on the micro lock?
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Post by JWarren on Dec 3, 2008 22:29:29 GMT -6
people always talk about choke springs on other locks but the only ones that I know work are filed cams, hook the loop around something and pull-if the spring stays compressed it should work, if the spring bounces up and down and won't lock up due to lock slippage then it isn't doing anything and might as well not have a spring
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Post by rk660 on Dec 3, 2008 23:09:48 GMT -6
Neck snaring beaver a rather easy deal, just look at size of head compared to body. With proper loop size its hard NOT to neck snare a beaver. 1/16 cable w/ proper locks mentioned by Jesse, plus a choke spring, and dead snared beaver pretty much no brainer. With that said, I still pretty much prefer my beaver in cold storage under water, via a proper sized leghold and drowning rod, or some version of killer trap.
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Post by RiverRat on Dec 4, 2008 3:29:42 GMT -6
I have allways used a 1/8 camlock on 3/32 cable fast set up. Rich care to explain that neck snaring a little more ? I have allways just ran a 10-12 loop in the choke point an called it good resulting in body catches.
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Post by JWarren on Dec 4, 2008 9:27:53 GMT -6
Neck snaring beaver a rather easy deal, just look at size of head compared to body. With proper loop size its hard NOT to neck snare a beaver. 1/16 cable w/ proper locks mentioned by Jesse, plus a choke spring, and dead snared beaver pretty much no brainer. With that said, I still pretty much prefer my beaver in cold storage under water, via a proper sized leghold and drowning rod, or some version of killer trap. how would you account for the mutiple X size differences in a colony, even the football sized beavers can twist out, if they are swimming the surface you can put the bottom of the loop 1" under water and neck them i think they swim with their chin up
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Post by bobwendt on Dec 4, 2008 10:04:48 GMT -6
I`ve watched baby beavers swim, and they don`t swim like big ones. they do keep their whole head out of the water, while the big ones just the nose and eyes
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Post by JWarren on Dec 4, 2008 12:11:57 GMT -6
even on an adult, if the nose is out of the water there is only 2" max of face between the nose and chin, conventional wisdom says water snares should be half submerged, if you set unconventional with only a couple inches submerged you will get the neck, I haven't done much neck snaring on land let so can't say much about that
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Post by Gibb on Dec 4, 2008 13:41:25 GMT -6
Snaring beaver on dry land almost without exception equal damaged beaver. Cheers Jim
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Post by briankroberts on Dec 4, 2008 19:15:40 GMT -6
I think snaring beaver is a fine way to restrain a beaver, I loose 0% with 3/32 cable, I tried 1/8" cable and saw no less damage to the hides. What I do know is the anti's don't care HOW we capture an animal, they don't want us to capture them AT ALL! As far as coon go the 220 conibear is my capture device of choice. But even with that trap you get into the BMP's on whats approved and kills in X amount of time. Personally If your state laws permit snaring of coon, I see nothing wrong with it, I've neck snared coon with 1/16 , 3/64 and 3/32 cable, I think the smaller the cable and picking the right location, plus good guiding and anchoring up high increases your % of dead coon. I feel that body snaring is better with 1/16 and 3/32 cable and have no problem with it. Just remember we all do things different. I have also found that my double laminated 2 coiled Bridger No.3's are easier on a Coyotes foot that a victor No.3 soft catch, granted I'm not running my traps in the middle of the night like you are Bob, but I've caught numerous farm dogs over the years in these traps and 0% suffered and long term ill effects. I also reliese that a Coyote fights any trap harder than a domestic, but my main concern lies with the farm gs and other domestics, not the Coyotes. Like I said earlier, they don't care how we catch them. They don't want us catching them at all, everything else is smoke and mirrors....B....
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Post by coonboy on Dec 4, 2008 19:15:43 GMT -6
So how big of loop to neck snare 8"? half out of the water? What kind Of choke spring?
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