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Post by bnolan on Jul 14, 2006 7:22:28 GMT -6
I have read almost all the mink threads in the archives, and I must say I've learned alot. But still have a few questions.
This year I plan on getting out a few more sets and this what i have to work with. First I have 2 dozen 1.5 Victor coils that I will be putting two feet of chain on with a swivel at the trap, one mid way down the chain and two flat stake swivels on the other end.
Second, I have a dozen Blake and Lamb 1.5 coils that I will be putting four feet of chain on with a swivel at the trap, one mid way down the chain and a grapple drag on the other end for those special situations.
Next, I have a dozen and half older Blake and lamb and Victor #2 square jaw coils that I want to set up also for mink. I know the Blake and Lamb have a small pan so I will replace them with a larger mink pan. But what is the best way to set #2 coils for mink? Would it be the same fas the 1.5 coils? I would to put them on coils and catch a coon in them, because the #2 will allow them to chew. Should they be set up more as drowner on a rig?
I just want to get the most out of what traps I have to work with. I know that their are alot of better traps out their on the market today but I don't to have to buy new ones.
I have read that some guys here don't care so much for the Victor 1.5 coils. Why is that? What can be done to make them a little better trap?
I have heard that center swiveling is not important in mink/coon trapping. Any thoughts about this?
I also have a dozen and a half 1.5 long springs that I would also like to use. Any ideas, thoughts, or modifications that will make these a suitable trap for mink?
Thanks
CHT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2006 8:45:53 GMT -6
CHT, I use the old style #1 1/2 Victor for mink and coon. They have the old pinch on style pan and I have had no proplems with them just the way they are. I used to catch fox in them before I had better stuff to use. I would forget that swivel in the middle of the chain. It will do more good to have it nearer the trap. I have my swivels like this. The first double swivel one link from the trap ,and another, two links from the first, then the rest of the chain or cable. The swivels farther up the chain don't do much good if the chain gets wrapped up a foot from the trap, or if it gets caught on the cross piece of the trap. I also use the #2 old style coil for mink and rats and I only use them in drowning situations. As like you say , coon can chew easy in them. Alot of the smaller mink get caught in them around the chest high up on the front legs and are killed like in the body grips. They are my favorites for mink where coon can be avoided. I don't think it matters whether you center swivel. In fact , it can be a pain as it makes the trap tippy if the bedding surface is hard and slick when you try to bed the trap. The only #1 1/2 lond spring traps that I have used for mink are the stop-loss. I didn't do anything to them except nite-latch to take the wobble out of the pan, and add a universal swivel a couple of links from the clevis swivel. I will add that the stop-loss guard helps keep the coon I've caught in these from chewing. I also use a homemade metal drag which I made out of a right and left tine of used up roto-tiller tines and a 10'' length of 1 1/4" flat stock welded together in grapple fashion. The distance between the points is about 9" to 10" and they weigh aprox 2 1/2 lbs. I like about 6 feet of chain on these. Never have had a coon take one up a tree , down a hole,or go more than 20 feet with one. Anything similar would probably work just as well. Just chose a grapple you would be confident to use on coyote in a pinch.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jul 14, 2006 9:08:43 GMT -6
The traps you speak of will catch any mink that comes along. You just have to place them In the right place. The swivels are fine . Long chains are probably over kill unless you are trying to get to deep water. Then you have to consider the minks small size. Can It drag a large trap with 3' or 4' chain to get to deep water. I'm a wire man myself,I just add wire as I need It for different situations. I have some add on pans on some of my traps, I'm not sure they are needed but If they catch one more mink they would be worth It. ! 1/2 Long springs are great mink traps,It's the trap of choice around here, along with the #2 square jaw.
When tweaking your traps set them up with NO pan tension, just enough to keep the trap set. A mink Is very light footed. And don't set to deep, a maximum of 1" of water over your pan, less would be better. The traps will do their job It's up to you to put them where the mink will step.
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Post by bnolan on Jul 14, 2006 9:31:20 GMT -6
Beav, In regards to the longer chains. If I place the trap, say in front of a pocket, I then would run the chain into the water and stake it there.
CHT
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Post by thebeav2 on Jul 14, 2006 12:19:48 GMT -6
I understand. Here's why I use wire to stake with Or cable for a drowner.
When using larger traps I have found most of my mink laying dead In very shallow water, I feel most mink die from stress. Sure you have live mink at times. I just don't think they have the strength to move the trap very far and when you add 3 or 4" feet of chain It gets more difficult for them to move It. Now If your setting close to deep water then the mink can just roll over and slide Into deep water. But those situations are few and far between.
Now with the use of a drowning wire or cable you eliminate the weight. My drowning cables are about 4' long the trap goes directly to the cable with about 10" of chain. Very few rats and Mink are setting In shallow water with this set up. lack of swivels are not a problem. And any coon that may be caught are setting at the end of the cable they may not be dead but are still away form the set and In the water.
Or just eliminate the cable and chain and use wire, It's light and the smaller critters can move It and you will still hold your coon.
Don't get me wrong chain and swivels will work but a roll of wire In your pocket Is a lot lighter when your hauling a doz or so traps over your shoulder. Now If your trapping form a boat or truck then It's not such a big deal.
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Post by trappnman on Jul 18, 2006 20:12:24 GMT -6
Victors 1.5 coils work fine on mink/rats- but they give me too many empty traps on end of slide wire with coon. Must be the levers or whatever, but had it happen enough, that I'll put a victor 1.5 coil back in the bucket rather than use for coon.
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Post by markymark on Jul 18, 2006 20:17:51 GMT -6
Steve what do you think about this set up. It's a Duke 1.5 This might just be the ultimate mink coon trap.
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Post by trappnman on Jul 18, 2006 20:24:45 GMT -6
why do you like those pans?
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Post by dj88ryr on Jul 18, 2006 20:29:11 GMT -6
Nittany Lion has some of his traps set up with those too, never understood it, I do not like them, but as you know, I prefer, and mostly use, dogless, even for mink and rats.
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Post by markymark on Jul 18, 2006 20:30:14 GMT -6
I like them since I feel you can get better consistant hair trigger. After I got done waxing all my mink traps this year, I set them all and laid them on a table. After a couple of days sitting some fired. I also like the way it looks.
From what I understand someone had those pans made out of stainless steel. I am trying to find the person who made them.
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Post by trappnman on Jul 18, 2006 20:35:42 GMT -6
ok, I can see that.
I short notch my mink traps, and that eliminates finding that hair trigger.
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Post by MRussell on Jul 18, 2006 20:35:44 GMT -6
Marky I'm with you on this one! I had thought about such a setup . I read Gerald's mink book and was convinced that I was on the right track with the jaw Lams. So all of my 1-1/2 got laminated.
MR
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Post by trappnman on Jul 18, 2006 20:37:19 GMT -6
I would like to know the perceived advantage a laminated jaw brings to a mink trap.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jul 18, 2006 20:52:52 GMT -6
Well I can see no advantage to laminating mink traps but if some one can prove their value I just might re consider. Mink just don't pull out of a trap once you get It caught. I can't remember when I ever had a mink with busted leg.
I wax my mink traps and I also remove all wax from the dog and pan notch. I don't have traps spring on there own.
The only reason I can see for using the old pinch pans is that they give you a bigger kill area. That's why I use #2s and 1.75s,they all ready have the larger pans.
Gary
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Post by markymark on Jul 18, 2006 20:55:27 GMT -6
The lamination is not for mink but coon. The one thing that I don't like about filing the notch down is once you have your trap set up and needs another tickle it blows the whole setup.
I probably give way to much attention to my gear to the point it's an obsession. I wish I could just throw all caution into the wind and do like most trappers set it and jet. But when your trying to trap that needle in a hay stack I want all odds in my favor.
Most know I am into the modded trap and the work that is done to them. I picked up some Montgomery 2 round jaws from Z this past weekend. The guy that did the work on them was flawless to the point I have one sitting on my desk admiring it.
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Post by markymark on Jul 18, 2006 20:57:22 GMT -6
Gary you ever catch coon in mink sets??
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Post by Steve Gappa on Jul 18, 2006 21:02:54 GMT -6
we drown coon in mink sets... ;D
only reason we were asking about the laminations, was because they were brought up in conjunction with Geralds video.
I have no quarrel with those that want to laminate coon traps, but I don't agree with it. It doesn't reduce chewing per se, and laminations prevent the trap jaws from doing their job.
On coon.....
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Post by markymark on Jul 18, 2006 21:04:21 GMT -6
laminations prevent the trap jaws from doing their job.
You mean digging in and breaking the skin on a coon?
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Post by Steve Gappa on Jul 18, 2006 21:17:46 GMT -6
Yes and no. I trap 400+ coon a year, just a mere dabbler- but I very seldom see where a coon is ever cut on the foot. I won't say never, but hardly ever, if at all.
On both land and water.
But the thin jaws do indeed indent and hold better.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jul 18, 2006 21:24:57 GMT -6
Yep I catch all kinds of coon in mink sets. They are either drowned or out In the water away from the set. Broken skin chewed toes It's a thing that happens when trapping coon. It's the coon not the trap. You can do 100s of mods and they will help to some extent but nothing Is fool proof , other then a one way trip down the drowning cable. Or a body gripper.
Gary
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