stoploss traps

[Steve Gappa]

I used ot use a fair amount of them, but neverl iked tem and now, see no advantage to using them for rats. A good old #1.5 longspring will drown any rat without enough wringoffs to worry about, and if you want a trap that you can use in shallow water use an old #3.

Those that use them- what real advantages do you see in their use?

[lynxcat]

OK... ;D

[mostinterestingmanintheworld]

Well they are lighter than packing around a bunch of old threes.

I agree with you if the water is deep enough to drown them.

I like the 1 1/2 Blake and lambs where the guard goes back over the spring.

I don't like any #1 stoploss made except the old square pan with the wire dog. That's only for sentimental reasons as I started with them. They do set flat but I don't like the apparatus hanging off the front end.

Joel

[edge]

Way too many moving parts,they dont do anything that cant be done witha different(and usualy cheaper) trap.

Muskrat trapping is simple fast and fun........a trappers staple that should remain unsrewed with.I knmo the stoploss have been around forever,but I cut my teeth on vic 1 1/2's and in a pinch,#3 jumps....

Edge

Sprry about the typos,my handsd are killing me.

[dj88ryr]

I sold all of mine except 3 doz, I still use them on feedbeds where there isn't sufficient water to drown, but I prefer using a 1.5 CS for my rat and mink trapping and do 95% of the time, but in shallow water I will break out the Stop losses, maybe it is a mental thing...

[bblwi]

This year 96% of my rats were caught in stoploss traps.
I have used stoploss traps for 25 years. I like them even with the warts that go with them.
More moving parts, more things to remember, more expensive but they do the job for me. I set a lot of traps in very shallow water and the stoploss is forgiving and misses some coon for sure with the small jaws but one toe with a longer chain and they are there in the AM.
1. They are light traps and with 4-5 foot stakes I can put 6-8 dozen in my canoe.
2. the rats are held with less than 1 % losses.
I use the victor 1 round pan type. I have over 10 dozen of those. I also have 4 dozen 1.5 B&L stoploss and they are good where you want a larger kill area.
I have 1.5 SL B&Ls where drowning is highly likely and coons are less likely. Same for my #2 Victor Sq Jaws. I am making floats specifically for these traps.
I have been reviewing the #1 Dukes as a an upgrade. They appear to be very well thought out and constructed traps.
I will add that I bought all but 3 dozen of these traps used and during the bottom of the market years from 1988-1994.
Bryce

[sdgunner]

I've used them with good success for hut trapping muskrats in the winter. Seems like we had a lot of wringoffs when using anything other than the stoploss (guard) type traps. Hut trapping may not be legal in a lot of states but it is here.

[Steve Gappa]

I've used them with good success for hut trapping muskrats in the winter. Seems like we had a lot of wringoffs when using anything other than the stoploss (guard) type traps. Hut trapping may not be legal in a lot of states but it is here.

I agree.

[foxtail]

I like them where a sure drown is not assured.

Someone else likes them too, he stole a bunch from me today.

I know who it is, but can't proove it.

He is probably stealing Steve's stuff too.

[17HMR]

I thoght they would be good in my shallow water areas, and they were, but they make hell of a bird feeder too after the catch... To many raptors.

[Deleted]

I use and like them for shallow water and where the rat could tangle in vegetation before getting to deep water. I use the Victor round pans in #1 1/2 & #1 size, and some older B&L #1's. The victor guard design can be a pain. The B&L design works great. I bought some of the new Duke stop-loss to try and they are very nice, strong, and will also hold coon good. I am really impressed with them. Would set a Duke stop-loss on purpose for coon anytime, even in a dry set and not worry about it. All coon caught in the Duke stop-loss have been caught just above the toes or across the pad, and the guard seems to frustrate their attempts to chew. We have big coon here. Quite a few are taken in shallow water rat sets.

[Bogmaster]

I love the stoploss trap--the #1 stoploss that is.You guys can set all the #1 1/2 coils you want--deep water they are fine--thick vegetation that surrounds many rat huts--they suck,and your wring offs will prove that.
I really like the new Duke stoploss,they are strong springed and very similar to the old blake and lamb--that was an on purpose thing.
Bill incorporated everything I suggested into that trap--it's not very often you get a trap made to your specifications--so I better like it. lol
Have tried several types of non-stoploss traps inside the huts--with unacceptable results--it's stoploss both in open water and in the huts for me.
1 wringoff in the last 320 plus rats they have paid for themselves many times over.
Tom Olson

[sdgunner]

Since we talking about hut trapping has anyone ever tried using 110's on the inside? I am wondering how a baited 110 would work in there?

[Bogmaster]

You would find it hard to set 110s in most huts.while you might be able to in the main chamber,most passageways are to small.I found the stop loss much easier to use,than try and mess with 110s.
Tom Olson

[ScottW]

Tom,
I liked everything about the new Duke stoplosses except for the spring is WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY (I'd type more but ya'll'd get annoyed) TOO STRONG! Myself along with my setting partner this year could hardly set the buggers. I sure as heck hope they tone down after a little use....I'm gonna leave some set all year and hope for that. There were a few that were just find, but 10 or 11 out of 12 were just horendous! Aside from that, I haven't had a single wring off since I've started using the stoplosses, I won't comment on my b.s. (before stoploss) years! Happy trapping. ScottW

[sdgunner]

Today me and kids setup an area and we ran out of stoploss traps. This is what got me wondering if a conibear could work in there. We have a bunch of 110s and 55's (I think thats what they are) and it seems like they would fit and fire in there.

Might have to make a little larger passageway, but what is one more handful of muck. Seems like we could stabilize the conibear by sticking a lathe board thru the spring and into the muck and twisting the lathe.

Not sure how they work unbaited with a rat just moving around in there but with a carrot on the trigger, I wonder. Might have to give it a try.

[sdgunner]

Oh, one more thing you may find interesting. Our black lab (gunner) is very good at locating active huts and finding the best place to open them up!

[dj88ryr]

I actually have tried setting 110s inside, I did not have much luck, you will catch them coming out the main entrance though with a 110.