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Post by RiverRat on Apr 7, 2004 1:29:57 GMT -6
I hear of fellas puttin bigger springs on coon traps than the stock springs just wondering if you have to laminate to make up for the increased presure. Mainly thinking of the 1.5 cs, 1.65 and the 2 bridger. Rk660 I would really like to hear your view on this one. RR
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Post by rk660 on Apr 7, 2004 12:59:32 GMT -6
Depends on the trap. On stuff like bridgers with a nice rolled edge jaw, probibly dont make much diff, but take sharp edge stuff like victor 1.5 and old dukes, I bet lamination would help somewhat. lamination on coon traps can be a double edged sword.
Personally, with the type of traps I use, I prefer NOT to laminate coon traps.
More lamination requires more power to hold, since the power is spread out over more surface area. I like a little "bite" to my coon traps.
Case point. always have used bridger No 2 on drowners for coon w/ no 3 music wire. Never a problim holding coon with this setup. I full blown modified 3 doz this year and put nice looking 1/4 round stock on for lamintaion. I ran out of coon traps and threw these on drowners. Next check I bet I lost 1 out of 5 coon at bottom of slide wire. i quickly added 4 coil to them, old 1.5 springs and the problem went away. The increased jaw surface allowed for more slippage and losses. 4 coiling eliminated the loses but then the trap was powered up too much for my liking on coon. I'd rather stay with the rounded jaws, moderate power up and no lamination. I also know on my 1.65 bridgers w/ no 2 music wire I will lose a few more in the ones I laminated as opposed to non laminated. As the springs wear down I'm sure the loss rate will increase on the laminated traps. If you are running a sharp jaw edge I'd consider laminating with no 9 or 3/16 rod, but not 1/4" rod. Then you can reach a happy medium of how much powering up you will need. If setting drowners I would run straight jaws no matter what. You want that better grip on the foot, and foot damage isnt an issue on a drowning set. I know losts of guys think them laminated duke 1.5 are great, but without adding some spring to them, the doz I used where a great "catch and release" trap for me. Not enough power to overcome the lamination. Beings just about everyone is running a 24 hr check on stake solid coon traps, lamination doesnt really help ya that much, as most damage done to a coons foot is underneath the jaws anyway. I also think a lot of coon pullouts are from chewing underneath the jaw, then one little slip of the jaw and he pulls out, as there are no toes left to hold if he slips the jaw slightly. Ive had my best luck on staked solid traps, such as n.w 1.5 and 13/4 , bridger 1.65 and no 11, althou I get a lot more sprung traps with the small jaw spread of an 11. No 2 music wire in all the coils. That will clamp down enough that its dang tough for them to slip a foot.
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Post by Maineman on Apr 7, 2004 17:21:13 GMT -6
Good post rk...
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Post by RhodeDog on Apr 8, 2004 3:50:36 GMT -6
rk good post
I'd like to pick your brain a little if I could? Plan on doing some serious work to my 1 1/2's this summer and would like your input. I've got some older victors that the springs went weak on so I tried the 4-coiling route. Didn't really like the results, wouldn't lay flat at all, bent the bases and really didn't see any better holding results. So here's my plan. Base plate to straighten things back out, install #2 music wire springs, and outside laminate with #9 wire. These will be used on land and water both. Not all water sets are drowners.
Does this sound like a good set-up? Is there anything else I should be looking at doing? Or is this all overkill?
Thanks for any and all input.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 8, 2004 4:29:06 GMT -6
thats about what i'd do with them. i used to use a lot of those old victor no 2 coils on drowners. if powered up with no 3 music wire they would bend the frames. I just welded a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 flat stock to the base to stiffen it up. not a D-ring baseplate, just a piece of flatstock. Costs about a nickle a trap. I just drilled out factory rivet hole bigger so i could put in a stronger 3/16 rivet. You may consider just plating the base like i mentioned so it wont bend from the no 2 music wire. would be cheaper than buying base plates .
as far as lamination, maybe yes if staked solid, no if on slide wires. be more of a personal choice than anything thats going really make a huge difference on a 24 hr check. If 4 coiled id think your running enough power lamination would be manditory.
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Post by RhodeDog on Apr 8, 2004 16:13:37 GMT -6
That's what I was planning on doing for a baseplate. When you say you drilled the factory hole out for a bigger rivet, are you talking about center swiveling? Do you see any advantage to center over swiveling off the end? I tried center swiveling one year and seen no difference other than rougher on my knee to set them. But this was before I started using drowners.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 8, 2004 19:33:58 GMT -6
Yep, the hole on the side, i dislike center swiveling on coon traps for the same reasons you do too. It also limits how far you can get your stake away from trap bed to a certain extent. i forgot to add on above post, maybe the best thing to do if powering up some sharp jawed traps would be to just grind edges of jaws so not so sharp and forgo the time consuming laminating. Depends too if you will use them on fox or dryland coon, then might be worth lamination.
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