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Post by RiverRat on Feb 25, 2006 1:46:57 GMT -6
Ok I am more of a water trapper but like to play around in the dirt now an then. I have mixed feelings on the subject how do you all feel about pan creep ?
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Post by walkercoonhunter(Aaron L.) on Feb 25, 2006 6:22:44 GMT -6
should be no more than 1/16 of creep......my feelings....
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Post by trappnman on Feb 25, 2006 7:27:36 GMT -6
water or land...NO. short pan drop is critical for success, IMHO.
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Post by briankroberts on Feb 25, 2006 7:52:40 GMT -6
I agree, short drop is very important, I place brass washers along side of my pans to eliminate slop in the pan system and file a short night latch, this simple system has worked very well for me....B....
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Post by gunny on Feb 25, 2006 9:19:35 GMT -6
I prefer some pan travel, , , , animals are used to walking on soft ground.
I do not like hair-triggered pans.
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Post by coydog on Feb 25, 2006 10:14:21 GMT -6
I like as little as possible as well.
Too much movement or give under a canines foot while working a scent can cause dug up traps.
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Post by JWarren on Feb 25, 2006 22:05:08 GMT -6
I really like having a short drop and some tension. I disagree that it is very important though, the best cat and coyote man I know uses almost a full notch. I think you can do about whatever you want in this department as long as the trap goes off when a target steps in it.
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Post by MRussell on Feb 25, 2006 22:25:48 GMT -6
From what I have experienced a CRISP firing trap is what works best for me. I have all of my traps latched,either miles or night and I can't say which one that I like the best. I have most night latched. Both work well. With my set up the pan travels very little before it fires.
MR
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Post by JLDakota on Feb 26, 2006 11:43:55 GMT -6
Pete Askins, formerly of Woodstream and founder of Sleepy Creek Traps taught that one should take the slop out of the dog by crimping dog eye (removing slop but not crimping so tight that the eye is binding) and adjust dog/pan engagement to be appropriate to having a level pan and the dog in the notch where you wanted it to be when set. This can be accomplished by filing dog or bending in or out the vertical metal (can't think of the appropriate description) dog eye is attached to or a combination of the two. Once that has been accomplished one only has to set dog in the notch, push dog eye to-wards notch with the heel of your hand to remove slop and pull down pan to level desired.
The important thing he stressed was once downward motion was started on the pan and you by chance pulled the pan down farther then you wanted, you could not just raise the pan back up as this would allow the dog eye to move back and add slop or creep back in. You had to start over by pushing in on the dog eye with the heel of your hand to remove dog slop and then pull down on the pan to the desired level.
Many if not most probably already know of what I just wrote but for some of the newer trappers who haven't yet picked up on the dog notch relationship, a few minutes with a trap in hand will provide intended insight. Makes no difference whether you file the notch way down, put a Miles on it or leave full notch, the dog eye/notch relationship is important to know and understand. JL
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