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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 12:02:02 GMT -6
Rally I can see your point as to raiting but in this day and age of either BADS or deer stops I have always had the bad give way before the alum stop. The failure rate using alum on 1x19 is very low, but I use thick stops and make sure it is grabbing all the way thru, if that makes any sense. Live market snares how many are using them with 15-18ft of total cable length? The less cable the less directional force a coyote can apply. So not buying the extra force becuase they are alive, less cable less force being applied, I have done very limited Cable retraint work, and had one fail in the BMP's that was a swaged end. Here is my deal with very low failure rate. The bad is the first to go and neck snared deer well we know that outcome. Critique away fellas.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 12:07:38 GMT -6
Bob don';t know what to tell you find a different welder guy then? Also don';t you cross stake everything? here are some made years ago and still find and dandy and yes plenty of rock and hard pan remember the hammer head? It is here to see as well, so I'm not pounding in loamy soils by any means, tough stuff but these heads take serious beatings and keep on going. The washers are not the standard five and dime from a hadrware store, I can pry on them idf needed with a tile spade and pop them loose or use vice grips to pop them loose, I have had a few I have wedged in so good I just opened the J hook and let them be, not many but a few.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 13:03:26 GMT -6
chinese hammer. bought one from kyle katz once . you must have bought that one at the same place. it`s still around the barn somewhere. chipped first stake. always carry a spare, but the good ones. so i was ok, but never bought junk again. that was about 10 years ago when he was just starting in the supply biz and it was a buy to help him out as he was young then. wish I could get my stakes out with vise grips or tile spade, uh uh, need a "t" handle wrecking bar and even a block for a fulcrum. you should watch my fox dvd, go over it well in there. usually hard clay or rock or roots, or plumb froze in solid. rarely do I get that soft plowed field dirt or sand. no rest for the whicked I reckon. but I go where the others say too far too hard yada yada. anyway, the jacking uses the washers up as much or more than pounding. still have plenty washer stakes, but like you said, I always cross stake or at least look at the stake good before womping in if set up for single, like fox country( where is any of that left? ). the goofy ones I discard or save for the cross staking. any new ones have a big fat nut hammered on ,on a rr track. nice thing I like as traveling the way I do a guy never knows what to bring, all shorts, all longs, halvsies etc. so whatever I bring it`s easy to make my own on the rr track with nuts and have the lumber yard cut re bar for me 1500 miles from home. 1/2 hr and I`m staked up for anything. you mentioned smooth rod. tried that once and it was a joke. about zero gripping power, not safe even crossed imo. use them for tent pegs now
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Post by jwr64 on Aug 3, 2010 13:05:11 GMT -6
ct, if you have never had welded washer stakes fail, you aren`t using them as much(often/long/whatever) as some others. I`m talking number of times hammered into the ground and then jacked out. IM with 39. you need a different welder. MY welds wont break Even if there worked as hard as you work them.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 13:13:49 GMT -6
Yes Bob that was issued to me years back, never had this cheap of a hammer before. This was 8 months of use. This one below has 6 years of use far better and I have another that has 20 years on it the only thing I needed to replace was the handles a few times.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 13:14:19 GMT -6
feel free to forward stakes to my address, for field teasting. will report back at the end of my life.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 13:18:12 GMT -6
If you have the right soils those smooth rods work well, they will hang tight in the right soils and also cross pegging of the smooth rod works again soil types make a differance with there use also length.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 13:30:39 GMT -6
Bob wrote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- feel free to forward stakes to my address, for field teasting. will report back at the end of my life.
No need Bob I have plenty of years on them and little to any failure and so does JWR64 so what need to send them to you? If others aren;t having problems from years of use already?
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 13:32:41 GMT -6
it`s like dog years vs human years. I`m a dog.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 13:35:41 GMT -6
lol just saw you said " little to any". I like zero, not little to any. too many things out of my control so I like the things in my control 100%, not almost, but all the way. like aluminum failure. everyone talks of a few. not good enough. again, I need zero. never had a steel nut fail. that`s zero, never, nada zip.
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Post by jwr64 on Aug 3, 2010 13:43:33 GMT -6
Bob I have NEVER had a weld break! zero, never, nada zip.
39 where do you get your stops?
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Post by jwr64 on Aug 3, 2010 13:51:41 GMT -6
Bob Ill deliver you some good stakes at marshfield thursday
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 14:03:09 GMT -6
I`ll be working at the nta table. see you there.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 14:03:55 GMT -6
ps, I`ll be sitting next to the guy foaming at the butt.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 14:13:31 GMT -6
I get them from snare shop in Iowa.
Bob nothing is 100% would have been your reply, so I thought I would helpo you out LOL. I have never had one fail from the man who welded these stakes period. Yet you calim to have had them fail correct? meaning you need to find a better welder as stated. Then no fail, but ah again you would state send me some of these stakes for me to test because I can break anything.
No winning with you Bob period, take it for what I wrote, no need to send you anything because there are no problems with what is being used, you have a hard time with some things, that is OK Bob really. again find your self a better welder, then no problems easy!!!!!!
Bob again no problems with alum stops or I would have done something about it. They have been tested on critters much larger and with more force than coyotes without comming off. That is a fact. Others parts will fail before the stop does, hence the reason for a BAD Bob.
Meaning no need to be at 90% or 100% of rated cable strength as the bad will be popped before I need to worry about the alum stop. I don't need it to hold 800lbs the bad is rated at 325 or lower.
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Post by musher on Aug 3, 2010 14:29:33 GMT -6
I leave a little more wire sticking out of my ferrule. That way I can prick myself and bleed once in a while!
Doesn't anyone bend the last inch of wire so the pressure isn't directly on the stop sleeve?
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 3, 2010 14:37:25 GMT -6
musher used to do that now I can get it right to the edge of the ferrule, hate that man that hurts like a darn paper cut. Very dry hands and snare strands not a good day!
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Post by BadDog on Aug 4, 2010 7:15:07 GMT -6
Here is my deal with very low failure rate. The bad is the first to go and neck snared deer well we know that outcome. Critique away fellas. So you are still wiping out your local deer population??? on your neck caught??? And you don't know that this does not have to be the end result? Randy, this does not have to be your end result. You are already using Stingers, you just need to add the Senneker-Elite 265 lb S-hook BAD to your system and get rid of them Hopkins, because with them we do know what the end result always is. (90 lb Hopkins rated at 465 lb loop pull rating) Gappa carries these Elite 265, Schmitt and Snare Shop. If it doesn't have my name on it though, then you can't trust it to do the job, although by now it is possible that others are making a good BAD.
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Post by bfflobo on Aug 4, 2010 10:21:42 GMT -6
My experience in welding washers and nuts on stakes is not the weld that is at fault but the way the weld is cooled after welding. If the hot weld is cooled in water fast it will temper it hard and brittle ( depends on the carbon content of the stake )
I use a heavy nut that is driven past the top of the stake, welded around, then put into a bucket of lime to cool. Cools very slow and leaves the base metal soft. Hammering into the ground adds to the strength by a mushrooming effect on top of the nut.
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