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Post by farmboy on Aug 2, 2010 15:25:43 GMT -6
I like the hammer. Years ago I used to buy snares made with a bench-mount swager and that cured me. The crimped stops slipped on a dozen occasions. Never used the black ends you mention, but I hate those tiny aluminum endstops. I use a ferrule as a stop, no way it can slip doubled back on itself like that.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 2, 2010 15:34:30 GMT -6
I use hammer on as all failures I have had is because of using a swagger.
I know what I have with pounded on ends. I like alum stops for the swivel end and the smaller black ones with minor groove lines from snare shop on the lock end.
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Post by SteveCraig on Aug 2, 2010 15:45:09 GMT -6
Pounded them on 40+ years ago, and still do. A friend used his swagger, and lost 4 critters in one nights run. He ended up hammering all of the rest of them the next day. Lesson learned.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 2, 2010 15:50:54 GMT -6
hammer here too. and not aluminun, I use 1/4" steel nuts, 3/8s nuts for 1/8th. had snares chewed in two away from the nuts, but never had a nut fail yet. was taught this way by steve craig many years ago, and never failed me yet. why I like the guy, he never tells me anything till he has tried it first. I`m not the guinea pig.
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Post by okphyne on Aug 2, 2010 17:59:34 GMT -6
Like Bob and Steve ,I use steel nuts but quit hammering because of sore elbows .I made a press with a hydraulic jack .works as good as hammered.none failed yet.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 2, 2010 18:33:24 GMT -6
I like the alum ones, some steel I have tried has shown signs of cracking, could have been the making of the steel, but alum I can see the ends laying flat and make sure I am even with the hammer across the legnth of the stop.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 2, 2010 18:38:34 GMT -6
tc, I solved that problem. if you hit with one hard wop you will crack some steel nuts. if you hit with 3-4-5 easy wops in a row the nut will squash to where you want it and not crack. same deal hammering 1" nuts on rebar stakes. then of course don`t use hardened nuts either. use the cheapest tractor supply buck 99 nuts you can buy. no alum can bite that cable like a threaded nut. never had a hammered nut on rebar stake fail either. have had welded ones fail, so no more welded stakes either.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 2, 2010 18:58:52 GMT -6
I have never had issues with alum stops either, they hold well when pounded on thru out the stop.
Trap stakes just need a good welder friend, I have plenty that the washers are bent but have never had one of his welded stakes fail. Many are years old. I check them for cracking and find very few after many years and pounding, I don't know what wire he used but man they held up well. He also bought speical black washers that are 2 times or more thick than standard, he special ordered these from Macs hardware.
I also have the big smooth rod types that look like a giant nail made by the hudderrites, these are 20+ years old and still going strong. No welds or nuts to worry about.
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Post by RonMarsh on Aug 2, 2010 19:20:42 GMT -6
I built a crimper for steel nuts that I use on cable anchors and snares
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Post by martyb on Aug 2, 2010 19:24:40 GMT -6
I make some damn fine snares, and I'm really proud of them, but most of my swagger comes from my impressive skills with a bass rod.
After a while the cheering and autograph hounds get to you, but its the fans who give you that confidence and put that spring in your step.
I know your laughing, go ahead and admit it.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 2, 2010 19:26:44 GMT -6
Marty, many trappers will never be without their swagger just ask them LOL. Yours comes from a bass rod and mine comes from well placed shots on critters at longer ranges, something about the satisfaction tha comes from that
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Post by robertw on Aug 2, 2010 19:30:39 GMT -6
I hammer mine.
1x19 cable needs steel nuts to good a job of holding, especially for live catch snares.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 2, 2010 19:43:31 GMT -6
Robert I have no live catch snares and run 15ft of cable all 1x19 for coyotes and with the alum stops never had issues, but I will state I use the senniker style agressive system. I still make sure the enitre stop has good contact with the cable, alum is soft and I feel when hammered in melds it self well with the stiffer cable of 1x19.
lock end I use is a steel though from snare shop.
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Post by robertw on Aug 2, 2010 20:07:05 GMT -6
Lots of difference in the numb er of times a coyote hits the end of the snare between killing a coyote in 2-30 minutes and holding one 8-18 hours live in a snare.
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Post by Rally Hess on Aug 2, 2010 21:04:09 GMT -6
Big difference in the wall thickness of many sleeves and stops. A thinner sleeve or stop will give you a poor compression due to thin walls and not allow for the filling of the voids in a cable when swagged. When swagged with the proper sleeve or stop a sleeve should be stronger than the cable and a stop should be about 70-75% of cable strength on either 7x7 or 7x19 cable. Aluminum sleeves or stops are not intended for use with 1x19 cable. A sleeve even compressed with a 50 ton press will only achive about 60% of cable strength and a stop around 35% at best. With copper sleeve or stop you can add about 15% to those, but still never reach cable strength. You can improve the bond on 1x19 cable with some industrial adhesives but not by much. Industry recomends the use of steel fasteners for 1x19 and 1x7 cables. The trapping industry has adapted annealed nuts and steel sleeves , most threaded at this time. Be careful how much you compress or pound on threaded fasteners as they can and often do cut the outer strands of the cable and can cause internal rust and cable damage. Stay tuned.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 3, 2010 3:51:41 GMT -6
ct, if you have never had welded washer stakes fail, you aren`t using them as much(often/long/whatever) as some others. I`m talking number of times hammered into the ground and then jacked out.
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Post by 17HMR on Aug 3, 2010 6:04:40 GMT -6
Rally Im staying tuned I do want to here what else you have on this. I have a lot of very old rebar with welded washers that have never failed either, but the washers have cracked at the weld point, but the rebar is so mushroomed that there is no way it could come off.
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Post by Wright Brothers on Aug 3, 2010 6:05:04 GMT -6
Wether welded or not (I have both) I like to leave some bar sticking up, it mushrooms over and nothing slips over.
Hey Ron Marsh, been using your cable stakes for ten years +-, over and over every season, multiple times per season, have not had a crimp fail. You're doing it right.
But never say never, nothing is bullet proof, including us.
Oh and I use a hammer, anvil, and steel. Thanks for the info Rally Hess. Had thought about trying Al sleeves, not now.
Thanks for the topic guys.
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Post by BadDog on Aug 3, 2010 9:21:54 GMT -6
I swage all my snares, hammered for the first couple years, then grew a brain. The majority of thousands and thousands snared were with swaged snares. I can count on one hand the coyotes lost of all those thousands due to poorly swaged snares that were my own fault, not the swager. I didn't always use Stingers, and on my earlier seasons in my killpole and stake snare days, I had a very high percentage live rate on extended checks. Anybody ever hear of tightening your press? If you can't tighten your press, then you need to buy a different press. Keep it tight for safety's sake. Buy Japanese... this time. Hammering sucks. 1x19 problems with singles??? Either use doubles or else double your stops. And Rally is right on the money, never use thin wall garbage. So that's what I've been doing.... successfully
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Post by garman on Aug 3, 2010 10:47:29 GMT -6
I have not had much of an issue with a cable swager and I use a hand one, I did give some to Kyle on here a few years ago and he had one that came apart, never had one again or before.
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