Rebarrel Question

[Chamacat]

Yep..So I have heard about this procedure...I think it is possibly cheaper than buying a new rifle...So for the question..what is it that one does..I want to be little knowledgeable when I go to maybe get this done...Does one pick from a shelf new barrels and chamber's..I have a .300 ultra mag that shoot's 2 1/2 in groups at 100 yards..doesn't matter what powder or bullet so far..I'm going to the range tommorrow with two different powdr's and will try again...It's a remington model 700..I know this is a predator thread..But I also know some of you build your own rifles or have em built the way you want them...And another thing the OCL of the .300 is 3.600..OK..That is .198 off the lands!!!...So I find out that that is normal..and one more thing the rifle was haing trouble extracting fired cases..sent it back to remington and the did whatever to the chamber...wonder if thatiis part of it..thanks in advance..Carl

[stickbowhntr]

rebarrel can be cheap or expensive. just depends on what you are having done. A good smith will true all up and set it right, a new gun and you are getting factory specs. I rebarreled a swift and it cost total job~$500. So much can be done to make a Rem a shooter just what do you want to spend and expect to get for accuracy?

[FWS]

If you want to rebarrel to another chambering it might be a problem since the feed rails on your action are opened up to accommodate the .300 RUM case. If you want to keep the chambering it's a rebarrel with action work, like lapping the lugs, truing the bolt face, squaring the receiver face, reblue, etc. You can spend from $300 to $1000+ doing that depending on what you want.

Personally I'd sell that rifle and buy one of the new production Winchester Model 70's in .300 WSM or .300 Win. Mag. if you want a 30 caliber. I'm not a 300 Ultra Mag fan, the additional recoil and muzzle blast isn't worth the slight gains over the other .300's.

You could rebarrel in 338 Ultra Mag or 375 Ultra Mag. if you really want to smack something.

[akona20]

FWS gives the best advice on the subject and considering the cost of rebarreling and all the fun that goes with it the sale and repurchase sounds great to me.

With very expensive target quality actions rebarreling is of course the only way to go unless you are a gazillionaire but for hunting rifles, heck, turn it over and get a new one, probably save money and you will save a little heartache believe me.

[stickbowhntr]

getting a new one and you stiill are getting a factorybarrel and action and that is part of the problem. SAMMI specs.

[monstertom]

First find a quality gunsmith not some guy that has a mill and lathe in the back of his garage.
I would be suspect that a $50 re-crowning of the barrel may fix your problem.
If you decide to re-barrel FWS is correct you might as well go all the way (true action,lugs,etc)
I just got a 6.5x284 done by my smith(one of the best in country)
Lilja barrel 415.00
true action 150.00
chamber and tool barrel 200. 00
Glass bed action/barrel 100.00
Not a cheap proposition but you should come out of it with agun that will last a long time and shoot beyond your ability.

[lb]

Not an insult, but maybe you are not knowledgeable enough, at this point, to be talking custom barrels. Maybe you are very recoil sensitive and two and a half inch groups are all you can manage with even accuracy equipment? Let someone else shoot a few groups. Maybe you need a little instruction on how to shoot a heavy from the bench?

I don't know? If this is a normal big game application, maybe you don't need a thousand dollar rebarrel? However, if this gun groups that poorly, maybe you can return it? I'd be sore as hell, if I had a new Remington 700 that couldn't put three shots inside 2 1/2" inches.

Good hunting. LB

edit: quit with the different loads. You know enough already. There is no magic load that will get you under an inch. If you have not checked the action screws and the fore end bedding, that is worth doing, but more different bullets and powders is wasting your time.

[Furhvstr]

You could "tune up" the factory rig.
Re-crown the factory barrel, true, lap and square the action, lap the scope rings. Bed the action.
Pretty common procedure for the best accuracy possible from a factory gun.
Have your guy scope the bore before investing any money into the rig.

ML

[stickbowhntr]

you going to do that and maybe even repoint the barrel may just as well spend a few more dollars and get a GOOD barrel,Like Lilja, Hart, Shilen etc even from Chris Dichtor a Pac-Nor....

[Chamacat]

Yep...It is true that I don't have as much knowledge as the majority of you guys..And I will never be offended in any comment...It's me that's asking the question and it's you guy's that are giving me the advice I seek...The stock on the rifleis a factory molded stock and was bedded just the other day..And like just used JB Paste to clean the bore..And what a knock-out of foreign paticles it removed..So that's a plus...I went to shooting with both eyes open and I believe that is a plus..When I shoot at the rifle range the rifle is completly benched..the only thing I the shooter is involved with is crosshairs and trigger pull..I have made sure the scope is tight..before each session and have never found any of the mounts to have backed off...And I have great news..I shot at the range yesterday and got the rifle to shoot a three shot group ...the bullets were just touching each other..less than an inch..I was so happy leaving the range..I also think to that there is no magic in powder's and bullet's...I'm going to reload some more..[And reloading is another topic}..I do the best I can with all one-step at a time process with the standard reload dies RCBS...the rifle did this group with 88 grains of RL-25...When I was shooting that powder yesterday I actually could see the group tightening up..But I did have some frickin flyer's..lol....I am going to get ahold of a compentent gun smith and gun builder here and give him the rifle to look at...I like that that Model 70 winchester in a SS Exteme had one in my hands..That rifle is a 1000.00..but i can't thank you guy's enough for getting me in the right direction...I'm going to shoot that load again tommorrow and see if it's still consistent...Carl

[Danny Clifton]

The OCL is not set in stone. It's a number used to standardize factory ammo. Try seating a few bullets in cases with no primer or powder. Seat them so that they just touch the rifling when you close the bolt. You can "smoke" the bullets with a wood kitchen match to tell when you have them seated out far enough. Then see if they will cycle through the action when loaded with the case base against the rear of the magazine.

Check the fit of the action to the stock. Glass bedding can work wonders here and much cheaper than pillar bedding. Check the stock under the barrel. If you slide a dollar under the barrel between the stock you will find any tight spots. Clean them up. Some times rifle makers leave a "nub" at the end of the stock for the barrel to rest on. Some rifles shoot better this way and some dont. If your rifle has that "nub" try removing it. If it doesn't and there are no tight spots create one with a folded up matchbook cover about an inch from the end of the stock. If you need to create a permenent "nub" build a pair of small walls with kids playdough. Let it get hard then add two part epoxy glue between the walls. It won't take much. Ater the epoxy sets up remove the playdough with a pocket knife.

Id try all that before rebarreling. Good chance you can get accuracy you find acceptable as modern rifles are rarely defunct from the manufacturer.

[diogee]

I've found that a really thorough cleaning can do wonders. Some people don't clean the bore as well as they think they do. Then I always put a couple fouling shots down the tube before I shoot for groups.

I generally recommend that you start out with the books suggested accuracy load, and by seating the bullet to the factory recommend Over all length. Keep it simple at first. If you start messing with different powders, primers, seating depths, crimps, and all the other stuff you may end up spinning your wheels, and running in circles.

If you do the re-barrel path, talk to your gunsmith and make sure that he knows "exactly" what you want.