Question to Bad Dog on "stingers"

[trappincoyotes39]

I was wondering what kind of refusal rate do you have with that size of a spring on your snares? I would think the coyote would see that and shy away from them?
Do you camo paint them up well? or how do they not focus on a spring of this size? Thanks

[Stef]

I think the opposite "35".
Spring is behind cam so less visibility for the coyotes compared to standard compression choke springs.

Also, all the coyotes could see, is the side of the the coil and arms spring steel rods. Very thin compared to rounded - long springs.

Just my 2¢<br>
Stef

[BadDog]

Stef's point is valid. Here's some food for thought.

How would one ever hide a killpole? How would one ever catch a coyote in a Ram. Thousands upon thousands of coyotes are taken with both devices every year. The Stinger Kill Spring is very small compared to those, perhaps a couple hundred times smaller than either tool. By tucking the spring beside the lock, the majority of the spring/lock hides each other, an inadvertant benefit of running a snare as such. The main reason I use the spring in such fashion is for performance, the set up becomes a weight forward design, if one would bend the cable between the spring and BAD, then the spring is going to become much more visible and will cause a drag on the closing of the snare. The snare becomes very fast with it's weight forward design.

A general rule of thumb when snaring coyotes, if anything sticks out in such a fashion to be noticed by a coyote or anything else, one just needs to simply correct the problem so nothing sticks out. If you feel the spring sticks out, then blend your snare better. Very simple thing to deal with, the blend can be facilitated by a number of means.

Blend the lock and spring out when you set the snare. Then you're doing it right the first time. However, one gets lazy and sloppy from time to time... so let me say that I have caught hundreds of coyotes with non-blended springs. Most certainly paint will help, also I like my camlocks black to start with, I am very opposed to galvanized finished cams, and the same goes for plain unfinished steel cam locks too. I generally always run short on pre-made snares and often in winter one will find me whipping up a batch of snares at night, and simply boiling them immediately and setting them in such manner the next day.

[Wackyquacker]

Was the major reason for the new spring style concealment or do you find other additional mechanical advantages? Have you tested the brake away release poundage? Are you using two release systems ("s" hook & release ferrule)?

This is the first I saw this post so excuse me if you have aleady addressed thes questions. I just really like springs, snares and coyotes.

[BadDog]

I wasn't concerned with concealment whatsoever. The reason for the spring is totally mechanical. Look at the thing! Just from looking one can easily understand it's advantages. Increased stroke of the spring has a vastly increased mechanical advantage over conventional products. There is absolutley no loss of power/torque when an animal compresses this thing, whereas conventional springs curl and a drastic loss of power is the result. Conventional springs also distort when a coyote puts heavy stress on them, most suffer some some suffer horribly, one or two types not as bad as others (I am refering to the springs suffering damage).

I used 1/5th Ram Powersnares on my lines in previous years and seen the tremendous difference between the lightning fast kills achieved with the Ram vs other killing systems. It was quite a difference.

With this device you gain a huge mechanical advantage. It is not a Ram, but most often the kills it renders are the equivalent of Ram kills in terms of speed of death. This thing is the reason that I use pretty much exclusively 1/16 cable, 1x19 configuration. For me, anything heavier would be ridiculous. With this device, I feel that wolves will be killed with 5/64" with ease, we'll know that one by next spring!

I do not have to rely on entanglement anymore! The more open the better! Bring it on! Part of the reason it was so much fun to develope! Go throw your killpoles in the lake!

A simple trapper test for you this season. When a spring is compressed with a conventional type of product by a coyote, clip the spring right at the end and gauge how much pressure the spring had applied to the snare by how far it flies (or doesn't). Most coyotes will compress my spring 2/3's of the way. If one clips the cable between the spring arms on my device when it is on a coyote's neck and compressed 2/3rds of the way, the end stop/ferrule will sail!! With power and speed. One might even want to be careful doing such around fluorescent lights and most certainly USE EXTREME CAUTION IN REGARDS TO YOUR EYES! Wear safety glasses for such a task!

It's better and safer to get the snare off by other means. If you do try this, point the compressed spring and ferrule in a safe direction. Make sure you don't hit someone else.

The first time I tried it, I laughed my head off. I still get a kick out of it every time I cut a snare off a coyotes neck.

As far as it's BAD rating... Notice from Stef's picture that an S-hook BAD is required for use of this device. If you wanted to put this thing on a different lock you would either want to use a Snare Shop j-hook or make your own, possibly an s-hook would work with the hole types of locks. I don't use them, I like re-useable locks myself, and the Cam Lock is the King! I have put a few of these things on sensitive equipment to measure their worth. Be wise and use the lightest S-hook BAD's that are available, and there are only two or three that fit that category. If you like your release ferrules, you could put an extra strong S-Hook BAD on your camlock because those kinds of s-hooks have very little break away value (good for cows, elk and moose only, and I wouldn't take that risk with the cows anyways) and then crimp on your release ferrule.

So Wacky, with this thing you are going to get some serious whacking done! BTW there's another thread a good page behind that you might want to look at.

[Wackyquacker]

So where can I get some to try?

[BadDog]

I will have them for sale by early Sept. I have an ad in the T&PC.

[MChewk]

The more i read the more it sounds like a winner Marty. reading your post on the caution one must use when removing these springs...would a guy want to cup his hand ove snare cable,spring end AND then cut off?

[BadDog]

To do so safely, it would be a good idea. One can also try pinching the lock loose like one normally would with the camlock and no spring but if you have filed teeth in your lock and the spring is torqued down it can be a difficult thing to get done.. Or aim the ferrule and cut, this is the most fun way!