HOW TO: make nail swivels AND J hooks!!!

[lynxcat]

OK here we go!! One of my favorite make it yourself items!! You're about to learn how to make your own Nail swivels (sterling style) AND your own J hooks!! I WISH I could take credit for this... HOWEVER I must give all the credit to JOEL BLAKESLEE as he had the FIRST pictorial on this several years ago...the first bunch of pictures are mine on the tooling..the last ones are Joel's. MANY THANKS OLD MAN!!
FIRST THE TOOLS:
these are nut drivers..notice the two types..one has a shallow hole..ONE has a deep hole. You NEED the deep one to get clean sharp bends. Shown is a 20p nail.

[img src="http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/5672ns4.JPG[/imgwww.hunt101.com/data/500/5672ns5.JPG"]NEXT we cut off the LARGE end off of the nut driver(this also makes an AWSOME spring removal/replacement tool)[/b
You will need to debure and take the sharp edged off after cutting to allow the nail to fit properly.. MY bender/baseplate maker..NOTICE the rods on top..THESE are what we use!!
NOW come the pictures..compliments of JOEL..
NOTICE how you use the rods to make the bend. IF using the tool I show the head of the nail HAS to be on the INSIDE of the two rods as your bending around them.(dont know HOW Joel bent THIS ONE THEN using a boltcutter cut the sides off flush as seen in the next photo.

Start by bending the nail as shown..this is the bend/shank of the J hook.
REVERSE the nail..NOW you are going to make the bend in the J hook...make SURE to bend it PAST center..



NOW cut off the nail and PRESTO!!

Assembled and READY to weld!! I cant remember what size nail etc that Joel used..so I'll tell what I use!
I use 5/16" nuts and 20p nails. I usually make up the swivels in quantity..welding ONE side of the nut and opening up the other to slip on chain,drags etc. I use the J hooks you see on EVERYTHING!! They put ANY J hook you've EVER used to shame BAR NONE... take a pair of fencing pliers and grab a regular J hook..open it.. THEN try the nail hook.. MAJORLY stronger! I use these on virtually all of my traps and have NEVER had a failure.. I usually well all closed as well. Hope this helps some of you out...it SURE DID ME.. thanks again Joel!!
lynx

[lynxcat]

HUNT101 issues lol

[Stanley]

I have no pic's with this post. Just,"x" [image]

Cool!, I have pic's now since my last visit. Good Post

[trapperkris]

Excellent job brent...............

chris from nv.

[mostinterestingmanintheworld]

Bill Ilchik showed me how to do that.

Brent did you get those pics off of hunt 101? Tell me how because I lost some pics on a computer meltdown that I'd like to get back if the archives go back that far.

That nut driver tip would work for taking coilsprings off and on wouldn't it?

Joel

[lynxcat]

Joel, when you go to hunt 101 there is a red archive towards the left..click on it and it'll take you to the older posts. The nut drive ROCKS for taking off springs(actually posted THAT as well on this pictorial). The archive ONLY goes back to the start of THIS hunt 101.. there was a hunt 101 before..THOSE are gone I believe. BILL..thinkin OUTSIDE the box as usual..many thanks!!

[mostinterestingmanintheworld]

Thanks for the nut driver tip, I'm gonna get one today.

Joel

[lynxcat]

Joel..HARD to find one that's DEEP..most are shallow..go to an electronics supply store..they carry the deep ones..OFTENTIMES have ones w/out the head due to space issues.
Brent

[mostinterestingmanintheworld]

Good tip, probably saved me some driving around. Radio shack maybe?

Joel

[lynxcat]

VERY possible..TAKE a nail with you too!!

[rk660]

Another good use for the nut driver is removing/installing coil springs on traps. If you cut the head off it works even better. To remove, pry arm of spring away from lever slightly, and shove nutdriver onto arm when you creat enough clearence to get it started. To install, use it as a lever to get in position on lever, pull off with a quick jerk and spring arm will snap into place. Good pics Brent. If a deep nutdriver is hard to find, try pounding (pilot drill first) a 1/8" pipe nipple 5" long, into a wooden dowel or file handle.

[z]

Been using a nut driver for years......

Yes, They work well!

The only thing missing on the nailhooks is a LONGER shank, To me the longer/straighter shank is what inhibits fouling, Otherwise I see no benefit over a crunchproof .....

None!

[billcat]

What hasn't been said is to watch the orientation of the nail in the forked bender. When you put the nail between the legs of the bender, look down from the top. The serations from the nail heading machine should be showing. If the serations are on the outside of the bend, small cracks will open up when you bend it. The serations cause small stress risers in the stretched metal on the outside of the bend. You've got to look with a magnifying glass to see them. I hope this was a clear description.

You can make the shank as long as you want, just start the loop bend farther down the nail.

Bill

[mikespring]

Lynxs...nice, but....Zs right. longer shank makes all the difference...

[markymark]

I have pictures of Glenn's Jig but I am not going to give that one out. He can make about 150 mid chain swivels an hour and 135 end chains. Seems like it would take along time to band and weld 100 with that method. But to each his own.

[lynxcat]

I'd LIKE to see ANYONE weld that many in an hour...PERIOD... I do mine in segments..MUCH in fornt of the tv(dont watch it much)..EXCEPT for the welder...lol BILL..excellent point on the serations..TOTALLY forgot about that part..