Corrugated plastic pipe and MINK...

[Maineman]

I'm not a big mink trapper but I did catch a few mink over the last couple years in pockets and in BE-sets...I wanted to play some more this year and picked up some “free” 6 inch corrugated plastic pipe (the black stuff with the ribs) and was planning on making some sets with 110”s. I assume you place them parallel to the creek, cover with a rock or two and guard it with a 110 but I have a couple questions..

• How are you stabilizing your 110?
  
• What length are you making the pipe?
  
• Are you placing them in the water or up on the bank?
  

Dave Z

[lumberjack]

I always thought they would work good cut long and half in water, half out like a portable elbow set.
I have yet to try it.
I guess you could just cut slots in the pipe to hold the trap.

[CoonDuke]

Why not use foot traps Dave?

[frenchman]

the smaller 55s fit great in the smaller pipes.

[garman]

This year I am trying cardboard tubes I received for free and I can throw away as need be, blend in with surroundings good. I wil be using them in conjuction with legholds, in about 2" deep water. They will be cut in 2 ft sections. They are old carpet cardboard rolls.

[Maineman]

coonduke said:

Why not use foot traps Dave?

The footholds would probably be an easier option...One on each end...My original thought was to cut them into 2 to 3 foot sections and use them along bridge walls. I'd cover them up a little with rocks to keep them in place and stick a 110 at each end...A 1.5 would probably be easier and not tring to support them...

[bankrunner]

If you cut your tile right, you can work atleast two if not three corners of your #110 in and it is very stable. Just make sure your dog will clear or notch it at that point. Just wire off to a concrete block or something solid.

[trappnman]

I've heard of good success with these, cutting a slot in them for the 110s.

Tip I was told on where to set them- plumb in the middle of the streams

[markymark]

Get your trap in there about 6" in on both sides, place a nice pile of feathers in there also. Cut your pipe 4 feet min the longer the better. I like them a few feet up from the wall of the bridge. I think as they go under a bridge or approach they like that tunnel.

[SteveCraig]

"place a nice pile of feathers in there also. Cut your pipe 4 feet min the longer the better. I like them a few feet up from the wall of the bridge. I think as they go under a bridge or approach they like that tunnel."

Yes, and then place a snare at each end!

[markymark]

I forgot the trap part but also keep them high on bank, no matter how much the water level rises you have a working set. If you get your pipes out in the spring and the mink get used to them even covered with snow they will dig into them.

[mountainman]

I'll have to try these pipes for mink. I'm already interested in making more tunnel sets and will put in some dry set on the banks of deep muddy creeks in farm country. I figure to place a number of them in the bank trails and shovel dirt to cover like for 3 sided wooden tunnel supports. These plastic pipes should be just the trick where a point could be dug through or a place cut into the bank and sod piled on to cover. At freestone creeks I'll put some in the middle like trappnman said and at the other locations mentioned. I've always liked rock tunnels. They work well enough on mink and rats here to be worth the effort. The few I tried with ceramic tiles covered with rocks and placed parallel close to the banks were great on rats although for some reason I didn't get any mink there. -maybe just the location and the mink were running the bank. The dark interior of the black plastic seems to me like it would be a real draw to the mink. Thanks for the idea and good tips.

David

[Maineman]

Ok, I"ve been working in the fur shed most of the day boiling old wax off traps and had some time (in-between) to mess with this pipe...I have them cut to length and was trying to get the trap worked into the 6" corrigated pipe. There is no way a 110 is going 6 inches inside this size pipe...a 8 inch pipe sure...but not a 6 inch pipe...

When using the 6 inch pipe, Here is the trick that I learned to bed teh 110...Make a 1/4 inch wide by 1/4 deep cut into the pipe at 10:00 and 2:00. This will create a "FLAP" on teh top of the pipe. Then, when placing your trap in into the pipe, put the bottom jaw into the bottom of the pipe and work teh top portion of the pipe over teh top jaw until it also is in the grove. Even with the "FLAP", you will need to work the trap into the grove, (I used a screwdriver)...First time is teh hardest but once you do it once it's easy and the 110 is solid as a rock...If I get a chance, I'll take some pictures...Got to go back and put another batch of traps in...

Dave Z

[JP]

Funny you should bring this up, Dave. I am working on the exact same thing right now. I would like to make a bunch of these up since I have a good supply of the pipe and would like something that gives me the option of using the three day check here. Hope you are able to post a picture. I will go in the shop and see what I can come up with too.
JP

[Maineman]

Ok, I hope this works...Trying to get a square into a round hole, literally can be a chore but this may help...The first picture will show the 2 cuts to make on the pipe at 10 and 2...



Put the bottom jaw into the first grove of the pipe.


Work the first corner of the top jaw into the grove.


Lift the flap and turn the trap so that the entire jaw is resting in the first grove of the pipe.


Put a trap on both ends of the pipe


finished set on one end


With the dog in this position the trap fires with no problems. Camo them up a little with rocks and sod and I can see me using a few of these this year on the creeks...

I hope this helps somebody...

Dave Z

[Maineman]

I discovered this method of stabilizing a 110 while working in the fur shed yesterday but I need to ask...Is there a better way to stabilize a 110 in 6 inch corrugated pipe?

To utilize Marky's thought of having the trap inside the pipe, maybe I could cut a 10' piece of 8" inch pipe and overlap the ends so that the traps would be inside and protected from the weather...

Thoughts?

[trappnman]

After reading te mimnk bible, an oveall good mink book, I put out a lot of these and other type tunnels- put them out ahead of time, etc. Nevre used any 110s, but used footholds.

My conclusion, not worth the time. Not that I didn't catch mink in them, but not enough to make it worth the effort. BUT- I also had other sets out, so if these pipes were the only sets, perhaps they would produce better.

I'll be very curious as to your success with them. The pipes I was told about, had the 110s further inside, so bigger pipes.

I wonder if they will appear too blocked off with the 110s on the ends like that?

One thing I have learned on mink, they don't even begin to go into every hole they find- in fact, overall, they go into darn few holes they find- a hole needs a reason to enter.

[livefreeordie]

I think an 8" pipe might work better, but I haven't seen where these pipes out produce a pocket, but they are fun to dick around with, if you have the time, and need a reason to be out on your trapping ground.

[Maineman]

livefreeordie said:

they are fun to dick around with, if you have the time, and need a reason to be out on your trapping ground.

I think this pretty much sums it up for me...I'm just messing around with a few of these...My primary sets will still be the BE, pockets and blind sets but what the heck, I had the pipe so I'll fool around with a few of these...I think these would work better if I had a more inviting lead-in...Like a small piece of 8 inch pipe...That way I can have a well bedded trap that is inside and out of the weather yet open in the beginning...

Dave Z

[NittanyLion]

Dave, is that a Sullivan circle trigger on your bodygrips?