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Post by jeffc on Apr 18, 2006 12:29:28 GMT -6
I'm rechaining all my duke #3's after seeing a coyote bite the chain and off he went right in front of me. All I had left was half the chain and my stake. So my question is this- I've been just opening the jhook where the chain connects to the trap and reclosing it on new chain also am using mb swivels at the end. Do I need to braze or weld that jhook im opening and closeing or will it be fine?
Jeff
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Post by JWarren on Apr 18, 2006 14:31:20 GMT -6
I always jump for the heavy duty aftermarket J-hooks when doing chain. I would weld them if you stayed with the stock J-hooks.
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Apr 18, 2006 14:40:34 GMT -6
I would base plate your #3's and use sterling swivels and weld them shut. The sterling swivel is the tops in my book as not only are they heavy duty, they are the least binding/trash gathering swivel on the market due to their lower profile. Once welded up you have something that no critter is going to undo! I also use #2 welded link chain and it will hold about anything and is cheaper than the #3 chain and as long as you use a good quailty chain that will last for many,many years.
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Post by jeffc on Apr 18, 2006 15:00:40 GMT -6
Thanks guys, I already have half of them done so in the future Ill look into the sterling swivel, I am using #2 chain though. I'll get them welded.
Jeff
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Post by jeffc on Apr 18, 2006 15:53:28 GMT -6
even if they are only one year old?
Jeff
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Post by Stef on Apr 18, 2006 16:08:31 GMT -6
yep
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Post by bobwendt on Apr 18, 2006 17:40:23 GMT -6
I`ve only seen the duke rubber traps, and they are trash, pure trash. the chains look like charm bracelet material and the J hooks wouldn`t even make decent fish hooks. folks can say and brag on dukes all they want, I wouldn`t own one. surely trhe non rubber models are better, are they?
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Post by jeffc on Apr 18, 2006 19:30:28 GMT -6
Bob as you know I am far from being a really good coyote trapper, however I caught over 50 coyotes in the Duke #3's and never really had any problems till the one that busted the chain. I bought them cause they were cheap, only problem is the chain is cheap. I'm buying all bridgers and montanas now but the Dukes will be fine with new chain.
Jeff
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Post by trappnman on Apr 19, 2006 6:58:06 GMT -6
I'll ditto that on the Dukes. I've caught over 1000 in them.
Never had a problem with the chains until 3 years ago, and I had 2 broken chains in consecutive days. The first I thought was stolen, although things didn't add up. The second- I KNEW>
All my Dukes have #3 chain now.
Don't confuse the trap with the chain. Most people toss ANY stock chain anyways.
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Post by thebeav2 on Apr 19, 2006 7:18:26 GMT -6
Most of my traps are re chained with the cross chains off from old tire chains. Nothing on earth will break that chain and In most cases It's free.
Never re use a rivet.
I personally went back to attaching my chains to the end of the trap frame.
I weld a large chain link flat to the bottom of the trap frame.I let the link stick out about 3/4s of a inch so I can attach my rivet and swivel.
If you feel better using heavy duty rivets and swivels and then welding them shut go for It but I have NEVER had a rivet open up and I have NEVER had a coyote crunch up a swivel.
Gary
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Post by MRussell on Apr 19, 2006 9:37:13 GMT -6
just from what i read on this forum alone, prompted me to pitch all of the stock chains on my yote traps. I also added more swivels and it has worked out well for me. I have never had a failure. I have gotten a few swivels crunched to near uselessness. So from day one I was afraid to trust a factory chain assembly.
MR
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Post by Wright Brothers on Apr 19, 2006 10:24:23 GMT -6
I use a lot of tire chains too. The twin loop I remove from new traps go on my old rat traps. Not that rats or coon beat those up, it was me when pulling them from pond mud with wooden stakes.
I scarfed a couple broken chain blocks, the chain not real large but can pull the truck with that old American chain. They are on my metal grapples now.
Had my first welding lesson lately since high school. Who knows what I'll come up with next.
On J-hooks the best I have found for "me" are the ones that come with mb swivels, buy a bigger pokeful than you think you need > 100, at least.
Make a lot of my own swivels too, I'm cheap, and mechanically thrifty.
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Post by briankroberts on Apr 19, 2006 10:33:44 GMT -6
I have had a rivet opened, the Coyote didn't leave but after dispatching him and starting to remake the set the trap came free in my hand!
I have also had a number of traps "altered" and disassembled over the years, this has been a learning experiance for me and I now know what a trap has to have to be " Coyote Proof"
I'm not talking about size or brands as that personal prefernce, but it does pay to"beef" them up a little.
.........B.............
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Post by bobwendt on Apr 19, 2006 11:41:25 GMT -6
I`ve never had a victor chain fail me. have had 2 J hooks open, I suspect from me jacking them and missing the stake but getting the chain instead with my puller. easier to do than a guy would think in soup 1 foot deep. Have had 4-5 berkshire cross stake rigs fail and cured that by one afternoon replacing every single one with monster lap links that will take one or 2 stakes, no failures since and 2 years under their belt. I do routinely look at every single J-hook anytime I set a trap ,as precaution. just automatic 1/10th of a second glance. if ever opened, I put on new now also.
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Post by MRussell on Apr 23, 2006 20:32:33 GMT -6
It still amazes me at how hard some coyotes are on your equipment. From the chewed up dogs to the poped out jaws on un modified traps( I had one of those my first season) to the catch circles that look like someone is planting a garden. Convinced me the coyote proofing Brian mentioned is worth while.
MR
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Post by coyote on Apr 25, 2006 4:24:37 GMT -6
I personally went back to attaching my chains to the end of the trap frame. I weld a large chain link flat to the bottom of the trap frame.I let the link stick out about 3/4s of a inch so I can attach my rivet and swivel. Gary Thanks, Gary! I never really liked center-swivelled traps from a trap-bedding perspective. |
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