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Post by rn on Mar 30, 2006 14:14:39 GMT -6
I will be experimenting with several dozen #2 ls in conjuction with my 1.5 cs for racoon, nutria, ect. (water trapping) during the 06-07 trapping season here in MS. I have been offered several dozen #2 Victor ls (used) at a very good price. However I understand that this used victor #2 ls trap pan is not adjustable. The questions that I would like to pose to trappers who use the #2 longspring follow; "Should I go with the used non-adjustable #2 ls or go with a new trap like the #2 ls sleepy creek? (This is the only new #2 ls I can find). Which would be more cost effective in the long run?
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Post by JWarren on Mar 30, 2006 14:44:00 GMT -6
#2 victors are good. If you have a good deal on them go for it! I wish I could find a good deal on some. My favorite for mink, rats. Great for fox, multiple species trap
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Post by jeffc on Mar 30, 2006 15:04:26 GMT -6
The used traps are great I have quite a few of the victors and old blake and lambs. A very good trap for coons and rats in the water. I don't have any mink but I'm sure they would be great for them too but neither are cost effective for the longterm cause sooner or later the BMP nazis will turn recomendations into enforcement and you'll have to hang em on your wall.
Jeff
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44
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 30
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Post by 44 on Mar 30, 2006 15:26:42 GMT -6
To close the gap on those old #2 longs-turn the trap on it's side and alternately (and slowly!) use a hammer to take out the side to side play. The place to hammer is on each side of the "hump" where the pan pinches on. Put it on something solid like a vise, and go slow until you get the hang of it. I did all my longs like this, and it sure helps.
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Post by trappnman on Mar 30, 2006 18:57:14 GMT -6
use the old traps. I find the old #2 dls springs to be one of the better all around water traps- but I do prefer Duke 1.5s on coon.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 1, 2006 1:36:54 GMT -6
I used to use a LOT of no. 2 l.s. and was pretty happy with them on coon on slide wires, on mink and even rats when you could get them into deep water quick before any wrapping up problems, they were great. Like any longspring, once they locked up they really held. What i always hated about them for coon was lack of pan tension. You can only get so much tension out of that crossed hump pan set w/o resorting to time consuming mods. I do much better when I have a little tension on my coon traps, and coils are much easyer to add tension to. Sometimes if drowning cable is a little slack, you get more wrapped up messes with longspring traps.
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Post by SgtWal on Apr 1, 2006 10:15:11 GMT -6
Never worried about tension for coon or mink. Make a night latch notch on 'em and that will add a pound or so. Know one guy used to bend a wire like the old Newhouse pan tension spring. Had to straighten it after each catch but it worked.
wayne
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Post by rk660 on Apr 1, 2006 11:17:34 GMT -6
Tension not needed or wanted on rats and mink, but I think you do reduce sprung traps on coon getting a good 2 lbs on them. When coon get to jacking with traps if water drops on you, or funny full moon when they jack with them much more, you;ll see a lot of traps drug out of beds w/o being sprung. I run about a ft of chain on drowners to get up on knee easyer for setting, once had an unsprung trap stuck up on bank, sticking up in air, lever stuck into mud.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 1, 2006 11:46:07 GMT -6
biggest "tip" I could ever give as to coon messing with traps- in clear water, don't have them isolated.
Even 1 flat rock placed next to the trap- position is something I'll leave to you to discover- makes all the difference in the world with turned over and snapped traps.
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Post by NittanyLion on Apr 1, 2006 14:15:34 GMT -6
What would a "good" price be on some #2 double longspring Victors?
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Post by trappnman on Apr 1, 2006 14:25:52 GMT -6
I can find them for $3.50-$4 here and there
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Apr 1, 2006 16:31:07 GMT -6
Easy way to give those #2 or any long spring pan tension is run a night latch and bend the dog up! Doesn't take much time at all, I have done this on 1 1/2's all the way up to #4 long springs a good night latch and and aggressive bend in the dog can get you decent pan tension for anything from coons to coyotes and beaver.
I used alot of #2 DBL's and they were may favorite water trap as they held about anything that got between the jaws, drowned mink and rats easy and held coons and even front footed beaver as well.
I would disregard the BMP Nazi comment and if your state has a decent DNR or game commission and is even moderately pro trapping I don't think you will have to give up those #2's to hang on the wall at all.
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Post by rk660 on Apr 1, 2006 23:11:55 GMT -6
ive done all the tension tricks on no 2 l.s., gun notch, bent up dog, notch filed at reverse angle, still a tad light and all time consuming, plus i went to a larger jawspread trap, with much easyer adjustable tension, and its a much superior coon trap than the no 2 longs. I still have 2-3 doz i break out at thefty spots as replacment is only 36-40 doz at conventions, or for mink blind sets when I need a few. But all in all, a second rate coon trap in the end.
On a bigger trap, keeping them under 5-6" water, it pretty much negates much advantage from any guiding. Shave bank high, run higher hole and keep trap deep w/ bed carved for trap. Quick, simple, in and out in 1 min 30 seconds at times, and on down the line. Ive used rocks, sticks and the like, and although some advantage is gained in shallow water/small traps, keeping a deeper bed is my best option. Ive had rock guides end up in trap jaws, too big of rocks become ledge that they stand on to work set, etc. Simpler and much faster when trying to keep a pile of traps going. Other tricks too others swear by like branchy sticks around pocket that a couple guys down here use, I guess body guides to a certain extent, and another runs welded gutter spikes to bottom of 11's. Guy with gutter spikes take about as much care wrapping his traps up just so, and placing in box just so, as tucking in a baby in bed so they aint a tangled heap when getting out. all take time hunting down sticks, rocks and what not. Most problems arise when I let water get lower on me and didnt take/have time to dig down deeper. Starting deeper does buy more time in the long run, and picking your spots that dont require that much digging to get depth pay off too.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 2, 2006 3:59:50 GMT -6
If you don't want to use guiding, and if deep water is your best option, then do it. I want the mink, rats incidentals as well.
Yes indeed they will stand on big rocks standing out of the water, which is why I don't USE big rocks.
And a guard stick on coon, like Gart Armstrong says and I concur- if you aren't using them, you are missing coon.
as far as tension- I've never had any tension problems on a #2- tighten the gap, bend the springs inward, you are done- at least 2 lbs of tension.
You can't get a better mink, rat trap.
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Post by robertw on Apr 2, 2006 5:43:53 GMT -6
"as far as tension- I've never had any tension problems on a #2- tighten the gap, bend the springs inward, you are done-"
100% Correct!!!
My #2DLS are my money makers! No other trap works as well in the water as the #2 double long spring for coons and other incedental furbearers!
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Post by rk660 on Apr 2, 2006 10:44:13 GMT -6
Robert and Steve, I'd have to disagree with the the statement nothing beats a 2 longspring in the water for coon, look at a coon's hind foot, and the jawspread of a 2 long, and tell me you aint missing a large % of hind foot coons from sprung traps, hooked on side of foot that pull out, etc. The increased jaw spread and total square inches inside a no 2 northwoods or bridger increases your hind foot catch % so much, I cant begin to think how many coon Ive gained since moving up to this trap in water on drowners. Its about the same deal as trying to justify that a 1.75 coil is a equal coyote trap to a no 2 or 3 bridger or montana. You can throw all the sticks, rocks, weeds, fences, dirt clods, around them you want, but bottom line is a better trap, is, well, a better trap.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 2, 2006 10:52:06 GMT -6
if you are unable to use the traps successfully, fine.
Why assume others can't?
Perhaps if you didn't set coon traps in 6+ inches of water, you wouldn't have so many problems with 1.5s on coon or in this case #2.
If you believe that setting a #3 or a #4 gives you success where guiding doesn't on coon, then thats your style.
Me, I'll take the mink and take the rats and by using guiding take the coon. and btw- I never said I prefered #2 on coon-
although, this year for some odd reason, used quite a few of them, and had no problems with snapped traps or misses. But then, I set in very shallow water and use guides.
I thought your biggest problem with the #2 was you were unable, no matter what you did, to get 2 lbs of tension on them. My point was- never ever had that problem and apparently Robert doesn't ether.
So- there must be solutions.....
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Post by k9 on Apr 2, 2006 10:58:24 GMT -6
I plan to try the guard stick this year. My biggest problem, no matter what the trap, is those gravely stream beds that I only encounter now and then. Not the norm but enough to be a pain in the ass as far as coon fiddling with traps is concerned. So far just try to dig out an extra deep trap bed and put some mud down in there to settle the trap into, but still get some fiddling.
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Post by trappnman on Apr 2, 2006 11:03:50 GMT -6
k-9- if you have shallow rocky streams- the simple act of setting a rock or two next to the trap all but eliminates snapped and flipped traps.
You need a rock small enough so that the coon doesn't stand on it and large enough so he doesn't roll it into the trap. I like a flattish bottom rock with a rounded top- easy enough to find around here- and place 1-2 right next to the trap. If I use 2, same side.
Been doing this for 20+ years with water sets on coon- in our clear water, a trap stands out like a beacon and this simple trick makes the trap....just another "rock".
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Post by k9 on Apr 2, 2006 11:09:48 GMT -6
Will give it a try. Most of my streams are good mud and not a problem. I have a few that are too good to pass up but have that gravel. Lot's of rocks right at the location for sure.
Forrest Gump said "sometimes there just aren't enough rocks"
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