Trapping boats??

[robertw]

Guys I'm in need of a duck boat / canoe to take on out of state beaver jobs.

I would need to be able to haul this boat or canoe to location on an over head rack of a four wheeler.

It would need to be more stable than an ordinary canoe (flat bottomed?) and have a shallow draft with a tremendous load carrying capacity.

Would need to be tough enough to handle the every day abuse / use of a trapper.

Would appreciate your input and or any links to web sites advertising these types of boats.

Thanks.

[FWS]

You're a welder, why not build one out of aluminum ?

Something along the lines of what some commercial fishermen use in the estuaries.

[SgtWal]

On small waters I use a 10 foot Jon boat. Paddles like a canoe and draws very little water. On larger water I use a 14 foot Lake Jon. Narrower than a RiverJon and still handels like a canoe with a paddle.
With practice you can stand and pole one also.
Light aluminum construction and still take a beating.

wayne

[robertw]

I'm a steel welder haven't ever done any tig work.

Was kind of thinking about something better than a John Boat. More along the lines of the newer duck hunting boats you see.

A John Boat may be my best option, just looking for ideas.

[SgtWal]

The new boats may be better, but the Jon's are alot cheaper to replace when they get trashed.
I lose one about every other year.

wayne

[DaveLyons]

Bob,

The canoe I use for beaver work. Has done me great. Light weight and could handle all my gear. I don't now the name of it since it is older. But it had foam strips along the sides of it. Drafts was real shallow. It is an aluminum canoe.

Sorry I don't know the name but you can't miss them they have foam on the sides.

Dave

[JLDakota]

Dave,
It's possible that the canoe you are referencing is one of the two referenced below. I've owned two canoes with foam on the sides. They are definitely more stable as a result of the sponsons (sp) on the side and relatively hard to dump if you behave yourself.

First was a Meyer which was a 13 or 14', can't remember. Had it for many years and it met my needs til high winds tore through our town and dumped a tree on it and totaled it out. Replaced it with a Radison square stern in a 14' which takes my little 3 hp just fine when I don't feel like paddling or poling. I like everything about them from a none trapping standpoint except the foam on the inside is held in place by aluminum contour pieces every foot or so that are easily dislodged and are hard to keep in place once dislodged. I also doubt they wouldn't hold up to hard use by a trapper unless you took precausions to baby the inside some. I personally would stick to some type jon arrangement as I think they will take a better beating day to day. Heck of a lot cheaper too if I remember. Robert, don't know if this helps at all bfwiw, that's my take on this model. Have never had the real small jons (10-12's) either but still would lean that way.

As an aside, I am quite sure the Meyer (US) and the Radison (Canada) are the same canoe and the company was originally owned by a couple brothers that had a falling out and so one took his half and went to Canada and the other stayed in the US. JL

[DaveLyons]

JL,

You could be right. The foam on my canoe is held in with a Rivet through a big type washer. But sounds like the same canoe.

Dave

[JLDakota]

Dave,
Am pretty sure we are probably talking about the same canoe. You are right the big fender washers hold the foam on the sides. The problem I was alluding to was the floor foam and the aluminum extruded inner ribs that are holding the foam on the bottom and sides with. It's not the greatest means IMO of holding the foam on the floor and sides in place, especially with the knocking around that goes on in a "working" canoe.

Will say they are light and tough though and if they had the above shortcoming taken care of, I'd think their canoe would would fill the bill for a "trap boat"

I hid mine in a march one time and the damn muskrats chewed off about a foot of one of my side sponsons in about 2 nights. You'd have thought they'd have figured out the foam didn't taste that good after only a bite or two. ;D I had to order a set as they wouldn't sell me just one. JL

[DaveLyons]

JL,

Same Canoe for sure. I could figure out what you where talking about but NOW I know we are talking the same canoe. I understand where you are coming from for sure. But mine sure has taken a beating and still floats. Mine doesn't have the motor mount on the back. Every place I have used it no way to use a motor going over down trees in the streams from beaver.


Dave

[DaveLyons]

Here you go Bob.

Now I know what kind it is. LOL

www.bwmarineproducts.com/pointed_canoes.htm

Mine is 12-or14 ft. I can't remember.

Dave

[robertw]

Anybody have any experience with some of the newer duck / mud boats? I saw one this winter that bottom had to be at least three feet wide but narrowed as the side came up, opposite of what a John Boat does, was long like a canoe but looked EXCEPTIONALY stable. This was a fiber glass of some sort.

[rn]

Pokeboats.com (real pricy though) may be what you are talking about and also Cabellas carries Cartsen's Duck boats and Otter Outdoor duck boats, suppose to be extremely stable and durable made out of somekind of composite.

[Horn]

Take a look at these. I won one at an ITA convention several years ago. The Utility models look like just what you need.


canyak.com/

[mustelameister]

JLD--I have the same Radisson with the foam floor and aluminum ribs and had the same problems with the ribs falling out after the foam shrunk a bit. To solve this, I drilled through the ends (tops) of each rib and have a small bolt, lock washer and nut securing each. No more problems in that department.

When this one finally wears out (it's ~20 years old now) I'll buy another. Can't beat the 43# or so it weighs along with ability to lean way over while seated in the canoe.

I prefer to row it instead of paddle, and mine is also the square stern 14 footer.

I've built a rack on my 18' jon boat to hold this canoe off to the side for duck hunting.

[rk660]

If your going to be loading/unloading, and probibly dragging to water, one of the coleman plastic jon type boats might fill the bill. They are tough as nails, and the plastic will drag over grass/dirt a lot better than aluminum. Also drags over logs a lot easyer. I coon trap out of one, and they haul a pretty fair load. They were called Coleman Crawdads, 12 ft long. If loading off a rack I'd run a electric or hand winch, and get a roller of sorts on back end of rack. I paid like $600 with 2 motors and trailer, Ive seen in papers for 250-400 by themselves.

[JLDakota]

You are right Mr Meister that they are light and thanks for the rib tip. I wish I had thought of it. My son took it up to Boundry Canoe Waters and he and some of his friends being too lazy to get out when approaching shore put a couple dents in the front on rocks. I think I'll put the foam out and rubber hammer the dents back out and replace foam. Good time to put the bolts in the ribs.

I seem to either paddle or pole. The oars seem to be a pita to use as they are short and not comfortable for me.

My old Sportspal and me had some exciting times over the years before the tree took her out for keeps. Spring high water and beaver trapping near had me checking out a couple times. Oh to be young and foolish again. ;D

[bblwi]

Robert,
You could look into a Golden Hawk or another newer version of that a Cranberry Creek Canoe
I have a Golden Hawk and have used it for medium heavy duty for about 12 years.
1. They are molded fiberglass can be with a square stern if wanted. That means they can be fixed easily on the line with duct tape, but are very tough.
2. They are flat bottomed and can hold about 700 lbs.
3. Can be put on a car top and hauled around quite easily. Mine is 13 feet a little clumsy to handle but only about 50-60 lbs empty.
4. When alone I many times paddle backward and set on the front seat.

Some things that may be problematic.
it has a 2 inch hard metal keel where the two halves of molded fiberglass come together. This keel catches on rocks and surface wood etc. This can turn you some, but if not rocky not a real problem. Very stable canoe. one could add foam stabilizers but I don't see a need to.
The ends stick past the seat on both ends quite a bit. It makes it harder to set and work a set area from the canoe when doing so over the back or front. If you are out of your canoe most of the time that is not a problem.

The most I have ever had in the canoe was about 6 dozen muskrat traps, with 4-5 foot stakes and other gear.
I don't know prices. When they have been at the WTA the specials put them in the 5-700 range.

Bryce

[FWS]

I think a curragh, a traditional boat used in Ireland, would be pretty good for the uses you describe.



I remember helping to build these with my great Uncle Jim when I spent time in Ireland as a kid. Wood frame with oilcloth that was coated with hot tar. These things were very stable, lightweight and carried a hell of a load.

I can remember 30 lobster pots at a time being rowed out by Jim who was 70 something then and kept doing it till he was in his 90's till he finally died.



He hauled those pots by hand too.

[mustelameister]

JLD--a friend of mine has a Radisson about the same vintage as mine. He had a different solution for the foam floor/ribs problem.

He cleaned it up real well, then took it to one of those places that sprays in the bedliners. He placed all of the ribs in place, then they shot in that bedliner.

It's added some pounds to the canoe, but he solved the problem of ribs falling out.

The same fella had a buck charge him while paddling through a small slough in thick woods one year. At the last moment before the buck made contact with the canoe, he laid down in the bottom of the canoe and held on tightly.

The buck wound up goring the canoe and nearly spilling him into the foot deep water. The buck disengaged himself from the canoe and took off.

The patch over the holes is still there.