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Post by RdFx on Sept 6, 2005 17:32:02 GMT -6
Amen! Aho...
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Post by briankroberts on Sept 6, 2005 20:06:45 GMT -6
I heard that, I made mine for about $150.00 , plus I saw the crap at the NTA they were selling for $500.00.....B....
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Post by rk660 on Sept 6, 2005 20:56:32 GMT -6
If you guys are referring to the Driskill Fur Co. power skinner, I dont really see where you can honestly call it "crap" for $500. It lightweight, portable, user friendly and will last for years. Add up honestly the amount of material at new steel cost plus winch and cables etc., and you will soon see that Lauren isnt screwing the John Q public for what he charges on his skinner. Sure a skinner can be built cheap with used iron, junkyard gearboxes and motors. If fact thats exactly what I did years ago. You can definatly save money if you have the skill, equipment and material to do it. But to begrudge someone for trying to make an honest buck by investing their money time and labor to make a quality product, then spend no small amount of fuel money to sell them seems just a little harsh to me. Ive seen a hell of a lot less for a hell of a lot more money in my day. Sorry guys, not everything in the world can be purchased at Walmart for pennies that is made from cheap foreign labor.
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Post by PamIsMe on Sept 6, 2005 21:09:21 GMT -6
Well for starters the winch Is from harbor freight and costs about $70.00 The use of vise gripps for the hide hold down Is a pretty poor system. And the foot hook up Is even worse.Once you have torn a pad or a tendon you are SOL. Do you want me to continue. I Could build a better puller and sell It for $200.00 and still make money. I just might have to do It.I'm all ways a day late and a dollar short. I see OG Is bringing out a new disposible ,I have been using that same system for over 5 years But If you snooze you loose.
Gary
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Post by JLDakota on Sept 6, 2005 21:31:34 GMT -6
Gary, I would like you to expand upon your "vice grips for hide hold down is a pretty poor system" theory if you would. What problems have you experienced with the vice grips and what would you suggest one use instead? JL
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Post by td on Sept 7, 2005 6:47:02 GMT -6
Not Gary, but the one we bought years ago has a steel plate about a foot wide on a hinge that drops down on the pipe that is part of the frame, to hold the skin. Take the tail of coon/coyote and wrap it around the pipe and drop the plate on the skin a few inches above the base of the tail. Hang onto the tail and/or hold down on the plate while pulling to prevent slipping, if necessary. It has a knee activated switch that leaves both hands free. Simple, neat and effective. And fast.
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Post by thefoxtrapper on Sept 7, 2005 10:09:39 GMT -6
buddy of mine is making one, he has a vice grip that will be the deal for holding the fur from the floor, its bolted to the floor, but he is gonna weld a piece of rebar on each vice grip jaw to spread out holding power on the fur, how well it works, I dont know yet.....w
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Post by rk660 on Sept 7, 2005 19:03:14 GMT -6
actually the visegrip holdhold works very well, especailly with the traction rods welded to it, the only thing I'd change is a dogchain type gambrel instead of the hook type, but most furhandlers like the hooks as they are a little faster. I know 2 furbuyers that skin over 5000 coon apiece on these machines a year and they havent worn them out yet. If I got 10,000 critters on a $70 winch and had to replace for only 70 bucks I wouldnt cry any alligator tears over it.
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Post by mattduncan on Sept 8, 2005 16:31:00 GMT -6
i use visegrips on mine and don't have a problem with them the first one i made had the plate on a hinge style and i found it was a hassle holding on the plate all the time .The fella that was inside at the nta had a cam type setup that looked like it might work good also
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Post by Muskratman1 on Sept 10, 2005 8:12:17 GMT -6
Mick, I built mine for a short ceiling. I use the vise grips on it and have never torn a fur with them. The arm that comes out with the vise grips on them are adjustable up and down and by the time I'm done with a Coyote, the arms are just about down to the ground. It's the only feasable way to do it with an up and down puller with short ceiling space. On a huge Coyote, I even have to rehook one time with a nylon strap around the belly in front of the back hips. Still better and easier on the back. My winch and pulley are mounted on the ceiling and the back of the machine is bolted to the wall. a flat strap is across the bottom of the legs, that I stand on, aleviates the leverage up. Here's a couple of pics. MM1
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