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Post by Missourian on Aug 12, 2006 15:39:06 GMT -6
What can I do differently with my coon and mink pocket sets to increase the chance of incidental otter catches? Their's a chance I will get to float a small section of river this season, and coon and beaver will be my two main targets. However, I will set any otter pullouts/slides and toilets I find, and I'd like to pick up any that check out my pocket sets as well. How can I increase the odds? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Adam
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Post by robertw on Aug 12, 2006 21:11:16 GMT -6
Missourian, Catching otter in mink pockets just doesn't happen very often. For mink you need the trap set in the mouth of a tight pocket, an otter will miss the trap in this situation entirely because of their build.
To catch otter you need to use DEEP cubby type pockets that the animal can actually almost enter and the bait needs to be at least 18 inches behind the trap.
Envision how an otter is built, the length of the neck and the distance from the tip of his nose back to where his front feet are on the ground. You start to get an idea about the distance needed between the trap and the bait at baited sets.
Hope this helps.
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Nutoy
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 4
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Post by Nutoy on Aug 12, 2006 22:51:23 GMT -6
I use a coni otter pocket set that does well at times. I like to put it fairly close to thier slides and have had doubles many times. One in the slide and one in the pocket. Here is a couple of pics to give you an idea of what they look like. I use a sharpshooter shovel to punch the pocket and carve the funnel . Our creek banks are mostly sandy so it's really easy to put one in. If you look closely you'll see a finger sized hole in the bank behind the trap. I usually squirt a shot of fish oil in the hole. HTH
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Post by trappnman on Aug 13, 2006 6:07:20 GMT -6
I like the looks of that set!
I'm thinking you guys are right on the pocket size- I tried a few mink/coon type pockets and caught...mink and coon.
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Post by CoonDuke on Aug 13, 2006 6:26:06 GMT -6
Nutoy, What size trap do you prefer for that set? Would it work with 160s or 220s?
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Post by robertw on Aug 13, 2006 6:47:52 GMT -6
GOOD stout 220s & 280s where legal.
Be sure and swivel the traps and tie off well.
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Post by Missourian on Aug 13, 2006 7:19:05 GMT -6
Thanks guys! I guess I'll be more productive with species specific sets. Adam
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 13, 2006 8:22:19 GMT -6
I have had some luck catching otter with large pockets like are shown. Nice shots by the way.
In most cases I used them where there was no distinct pattern where the otter were coming up on the bank. But they will also catch most any coon that happens to get there first.
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Nutoy
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 4
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Post by Nutoy on Aug 13, 2006 9:53:01 GMT -6
CoonDuke, my prefered trap for this set is a 280. I guess the reason I prefer 280's is because my sharpshooter is 8"s wide so a 280 fits perfect. I suppose a 220 would work fine.
Robert is correct. Make sure you anchor well with a swiveled anchor. I use berkshires disposables on 30" of cable and at times I have to double them up just to feel comfortable. Most times the otters don't even move the support, especially with Belisles. If you have fluctuating water levels like I do here, anchor up the bank so you can retrieve your trap if the water rises.
Beav is right about the coon. What I try to do to avoid coons is to make the set on a fairly steep bank, say 45° or so. If available, I'll put some limbs or brush on the edges and top to deter coons from trying to work the set. Sometimes it works,,, sometimes not. You fellas that have coons that are worth catching, thats a plus. Also, If I make the set on a shallow sloping bank I've had otter enter the set from the top and try to exit towards the creek.
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