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Post by Jeffrey on Apr 9, 2006 18:24:11 GMT -6
We stretch our beaver to a formula, we hang the fleshed beaver on a nail by the nose, and measure from the nose to the bottomof the hide. Take the total length and multiply by 1.5 then multiply that number by 1.1 and make a chart for the bottom total of each size. Example, a hide that is from 34"to 36" in length we always will stretch on the large beaver line. If we can't get it on the large we may go slightly under the line but we have found that the formula works really well and we usually get top dollar for our fur and the hides usually rip out if we try to go bigger.
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Post by gilles01galarneau on Apr 9, 2006 19:34:24 GMT -6
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Post by Stef on Apr 9, 2006 20:18:10 GMT -6
That's exactly what I was saying... Thanks!
Stef
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Post by Gibb on Apr 10, 2006 9:52:58 GMT -6
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Post by Gibb on Apr 10, 2006 10:23:34 GMT -6
Stretching beaver, the answer is both yes and no for over stretching. A number of factors come into play. The main one being the section or type of beaver you are trapping. What we call eastern beaver should be stretched for fur but not so loose it is baggy. The exception would be a damaged beaver IE. lots of bits and scars. In this case stretch the hell out of them. We grade beaver into 21 different grades 7 different sizes and have 4 colours. This makes for a lot of piles.
Our FHA beaver pattern was changes slightly a couple of years ago because the head beaver grader found 2 many beavers just under the size ring. In order to prevent this problem and get more money for our trappers we increased some of our template sizes. I recommend that you use a pattern for your beaver and use the rings as a guide. Once a beaver stretches over the measurement IE 65 inches for a blanket beaver there is no need to stretch it any bigger. XX AND XXX are sold together.
By using a oval pattern you achieve a uniform put-up and are able to present the beaver in the best shape for selling. The last place a beaver primes up is right behind the head. If you stretch a beaver in a different way say round you have to pull the fur away from this area to achieve the stretch.
Now it your beaver primarily grade as hatter type then stretch the hell out of every skin. Buyers are looking for size because this translates into weight meaning so much underfur for felt.
The weight of the leather is a factor as well. Generally the further north you go the lighter the leather. Western beaver generally have very heavy leather. Where as the Cree have a very light leather.
The higher prices are usually paid for shearing type beaver grading as heavy and semi. Beaver that grade out as light are used for coats and hats For a trapper the choice of open water beaver vs under ice beaver is up to them. Catching beaver in open water is sure a lot easier then cutting ice and the price is generally close enough that the extra catch will more then make up for the lower grade. So at FHA we recommend you use a pattern and pay attention to the sizes. We also ask our shippers to use nails rather then staples very hard on the graders and runners. Most trappers end up with a few staples ion each skin. Ouch. Pay attention to size but use a pattern. Cheers Jim
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Post by dj88ryr on Apr 10, 2006 10:32:26 GMT -6
Thanks Jim, lots of good info there.
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Post by Dun Dign on Apr 10, 2006 14:03:37 GMT -6
Thanks Good info!! Love those Fur House Pics.
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Post by Stef on Apr 10, 2006 14:22:41 GMT -6
Thanks Jim and FHA for putting this on a forum... This one Stef
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Post by musher on Apr 10, 2006 16:13:46 GMT -6
So that's that!
It would be nice if Gibb's post would be archived.
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Post by Stef on Apr 10, 2006 16:23:31 GMT -6
I second that!
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Post by thorsmightyhammer on Apr 15, 2006 17:30:02 GMT -6
Gibb thanks for the informative pictures appreciate them.
I dont entirely believe that is that though. Sorry Jim.
Humor me if you can.
If I would happen to "overstretch" a beaver to a xl, and it would grade a xl semi heavy #2 color no other defects. What would it be worth?
If I stretched it "properly" and came out a large heavy #2 color no other defects. What would it be worth?
Oh and of course in the eastern grade. I'll run 90 to 95 percent eastern beaver.
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Post by Gibb on Apr 18, 2006 14:01:43 GMT -6
Steve, not sure what you are getting at. GO for size but once you are there do not over stretch. I am agreeing with you. Do not give up a size just to have a baggy stretch. A small large, in other words one that just makes the size will not make an xl. A big large could be and should be if possible made an xl which will bring more money. I do not think that stretching it to the next size will change the grade. Cheers Jim
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Post by thorsmightyhammer on Apr 21, 2006 19:29:54 GMT -6
I do not think that stretching it to the next size will change the grade.
This is what I have been trying ot get at all along Jim.
If you look at my poll it appears that people will back off a size if they think its too tight and effecting fur density.
I can be pretty creative on my stretching sometimes. Head may be on Large line and the tail on the XL line. Side might be where ever. As long as the measurements add up I dont really care about the lines. Use them as a guide is all.
How's the castor market looking?
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Post by briankroberts on Apr 21, 2006 19:37:15 GMT -6
Thanks Jim very good info you have provided us with .....B.....
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