body grippers and mink?

[chub618]

for those of you who use 110's for mink trapping how do you configure the trigger wires, i recently purchsed a doz bmi mags and was wondering if i should keep the trigger wire as is or bend them a certain way. pics would be appreciated

[CoonDuke]

I know Charlie Dobbins recommended spreading the trigger wires a bit on the BMI traps.

[NittanyLion]

I don't catch more than 15-20% of my mink in body grippers so maybe I am not qualified to answer, I tried different things. I tried bending, using a very thin wire to connect the trigger, spreading the trigger, and using Sullivan's circular trigger. I can't honestly say I ever noticed much difference. I do like the circular trigger and I plan to purchase more at the PA convention this year.

[Snareman]

On the BMI's, I prefer to spread the trigger slightly as to give the mink a comfortable place to stick his head through... very much like setting a snare.

Snareman

[JLDakota]

Similar to what Snareman referenced, I grasp both sides of the bell trigger near the top and bend them out to the sides so there is about a 1/2" gap between the tips of the bottom wires. IMO that arrangement provides (to a human) for a less crowded image going through the trigger and also better blocks off the interior of the square should the mink choose not to go through the middle. As I've stated before, I'm partial to the bending the bell triggers of the BMI mag 110's into a circle configuration as I theorize that the circle is more "inviting" to a mink. I have played with all size circles and lean towards a circle with the tips touching or slightly over lapping each other. I believe it gives the bucks the mistaken feeling that they can jump right through. If the females jump through, (and I think some do) I really don't care as I don't choose to catch them anyway. I start my triggers on all body catch traps.

As an aside to the topic, I recently caught on a nuisance call, a yoy grey squirrel in a squirrel specific cage trap. I decided to dispatch using a BMI mag set up in a Barker stabilizer. I squeezed the circle trigger down till the tips overlapped by 1/2" or so, blocked off any side exits, removed the barrier keeping the soon to die young grey in the cage, and watched it jump through the circle faster then a speeding bullet (like a circus tiger through a ring of fire), setting off the body grip (probably with his tail) and run off non the worse for wear. Obviously, smaller then a male mink but probably similar to a female. Surprised? Yes, but it told me he saw the circle as a hole and lanched himself perfectly through it. I will continue to make circles for my mink. JL

[dj88ryr]

I keep my wires straight and move the whole trigger to one side, that way the mink trips the trigger with his shoulder rather than his head, mink don't like stuff touching their faces.

[SteveCraig]

JL,
I'm curious to know about what diameter your circle was with the squirrel? 2,2 1/2, or 3 inches? I have read where alot of mink snaremen use 3 to 3 1/2 inch diameter loops for mink, but I find that I have missed alot of mink with even a 2 1/2 diameter loop. I believe alot of mink just hopp through a 3 inch loop. Just wondering? Thanks
Steve

[JLDakota]

Steve,
I went out to the truck and measured the one the little guy jumped through and it real close to 2.5" in all directions. The overlap of the tips is about 3/4". I get a lot of head catches and not many suitcases. Females and yoy can make it farther through sometimes, but seldom ever a hip catch so I think the 2.5 is about right for my mink. I also feel that "starting" a little swing/give to the trigger lends confidence to the mink or any animal for that matter, that it can push through the trigger area, be that wires of any configuration including the circle when it is sneaking around.

I would guess I should also qualify my statements above by saying that our MN late season buck mink (which is usually when I am pursuing them) are of pretty good size and that possibly if one has smaller mink of either sex in their parts of the country, they may find that a 2" loop or trigger circle might be better.

As to the 3 to 3.5 loop, I agree totally with your assessment that its too big. I would expect that many mink in my part of the country would clear the "circle of fire" like the little squirrel. It was my trial and error that made me keep lowering the circle size. Being a slow learner, who knows how many I missed with my original hoola hoops. I expect those successful with bigger loops have developed set techniques to compensate for the larger loop they choose to use, most probably positioning the loop higher off the ground. JL

[SteveCraig]

Thanks JL,
I have found that snare height and loop size for mink to be very critical, much more so than with other critters. Bobcats fall into this catagory too. Probably the reason so many trappers have trouble catching mink in conibears.I am experimenting with a new trigger design for 110's this winter. Should be interesting to say the least. I appreciate you taking the time to measure your squirrel trap for me. I have found on Indiana mink that 2 to 2 1/2 inch loops and triggers are the norm. Anything bigger and you are missing alot of mink. Thanks for your input.
Steve

[JLDakota]

Steve,
Wasn't any trouble to measure the wires in fact I did it a much for me as for you. ;D We may get to snare some cats in the near future in MN so I will have to bone up on the subtleties of that critter when the time comes. I wish you well with your new trigger design. I expect you've done your homework so probably not a lot of luck involved. Be well, JL

[Gibb]

I gave up on metal triggers and went to wooden pans. I have found it to be more efficient.

[lumberjack]

Gibb,
I would switch to those in a heartbeat but they look like a one-way setup.Do they work in a trail situation?
Does anyone have a good coni pan setup for trails?
The last time I tried a pan configuration of my own,tracks in the mud showed mink jumping the pan way more times than I liked.
I think what we need is a screen stiff enough to be made longer to be un-jumpable (new word here) and yet trigger,but be flexible enough to give with the jaws so there is no interference with the jaws when closing when closing.
I am working on that.

[mustelameister]

LJ: Ever try hardware cloth with marsh grass weaved through the holes?

[lumberjack]

I was thinking why not bend one trigger wire one way and the other the opposite way;
Feed about a 12" x 4" or so piece of hardware mesh or plastic canvas type screen through the set trap kind of like a carpet.
It would look like a slight hump right at the pan,instead of an object to jump over?
I think you would need to at least somewhat fence the top of the trap with sticks to keep him from wanting to jump over the trap due to the decreased area at the pan due to the hump?
Anyone foresee any problems with that?

[Gibb]

I use my pan setup in a box so have not had any problems with one way sets.
Cheers Jim

[JLDakota]

I have read that on the one way pan arrangement, (as in the entering of a box) the pan should be at a 25 or 30 degree angle instead of horizontal which forces mink to put his feet on the pan instead of just jumping throught as he may often be inclined to do if its all open. Haven't tried it but believe it probably warrants some experimenting to prove out its merits or not. JL

[Gibb]

JLDakota, You are right on that point. I caught way to many mink in the set by the hips. Was planning on setting the pans this season on an angle to try and prevent this.
Cheers Jim

[JLDakota]

Gibb,
Would be interested to hear how that turns out. Would expect angle should push the strike towards the front of mink and worse case get suitcases. Be well. JL

[Gibb]

My plan is to run 200 hundred sets this fall so I will let you know the results.
Cheers Jim

[HappyPlumber]

I have done a number of experiments on this subject of pans and am still not done. The width and length of the pan are important. A two way pan can be made to catch them going each way. It isn't possible to catch them only behind the head because a mink will not step on the pan the same way every time. The one I designed will catch the mink on the way out if it doesn't catch the mink on the way in. The trigger pan I made can be placed on top of the bottom jaw or underneath it. The old trigger needs to be taken off entirely and the new pan is totally independant of the trap. the pan would be died black and some sand could be put on the pan. Later. HP