Footholds for beaver.....

[mike692]

I've never set a beaver trap in my life, but I would like to this winter. I've had my eye on some Sleepy Creek #3 longsprings, anyone have experience with these?
Don't mention any of the high dollar traps, cause we have a 6.5 inch jaw spread restriction.

[thefoxtrapper]

Mike, I caught a couple of dozen beaver one year in Bridger #3 offsets, cause I didnt have many conibears and had to make due with what I had, If I was buying traps for beaver, I would get the regular jawed ones and they will definetly hold beaver, recommend four coiling too for back foot catches, I held many by just a few toes even in the offsets(lost a few, but only because the swivels became fouled and twisted a couple toes off, trap didnt let go), held an otter in one too...think you would be pleased with these since you have the jawspread restriction....

Winston

[mmwb (Andrew Parker)]

So they need to be four coiled? I've some #3 Herters, but they aren't exceptionally strong. Is it that important with a drowning rig? I was going to beef up the springs on the herters for cats next year, but the locals tend to use smaller traps (1.75s or #2s) for their cat cubbies as they'd rather have a destroyed trap than have to deal with a mountain lion when they check their sets! The local warden appreciates it as well. Apparently its about as easy to catch a lion around here as a bobcat. I may go ahead and beef them up for yotes, but wondered if they'd hold a beaver for use this year as is.

[thefoxtrapper]

If they were mine, I would four coil them, but if I didn't have the extra coils on hand, I wouldnt hesitate to set them, but dont be surprised if one gets out occassionally if the springs arent super strong, beaver are strong and can fight along time underwater...for an extra dollar or two for the extra springs, pretty cheap insurance....I dont have many traps that i try and use for more than one thing, so using the same traps on land as in water is not a concern of mine....

Winston

[PAskinner]

Snares are easier, faster and cheaper...

[Mike N.]

The first 2 beavers I've caught this year were in Duke 1.5's set for coons. One by the front foot and one by the back, set on drowners. I wouldn't advise them as a beaver trap though. I've got a few #3 Northwoods out now for beavs set on sliders. Have used #2 and #3 Bridgers before with good success. I do find myself using more and more snares though, got some of them out also.

[KSBobcat]

I agree with the snares if you can use them ?

[mike692]

Thanks Winston. #3 Bridgers are 6.5 I believe, so they are pushing the jaw spread restriction. Wonder how the regular jawed Montana's would work?

Snares are definately on my list as well. I have the stuff to make them too. When our season comes in, chances are we'll be working under ice, so they would be ideal.

[CoonDuke]

I am going to get some #3 Bridgers to use mainly for coyote but might get into beaver trapping sometime and I would want them to work for beaver too.

I would prefer an offset jaw, but don't want it to cause problems with losing beaver.

If you were going to use #3s for coyote 85% of the time and 15% of the time for beaver, would you prefer the regular jaws or offset?

Keep in mind, I know nothing about beaver and never set a beaver trap in my life. These traps would probably only catch less than 5 beavers a season.

[dj88ryr]

Dukie, make you coyote traps coyote traps, and use snares and 330s for beaver, I have a bunch of PA legal snares if you want to use some this year.

[Edge]

Mike,the Montana reg jaw,2 coiled has held both beaver and otter for me;plenty well.When I need the extra punch,I add a set of bridger 165 springs;takes about a minute on the line.
If I were limited to a #3 trap for beaver,I would use the 4 coiled bridger or Montana;as far as the OS jaws go,I would say that zero percent of pullouts I have had could be absolutely attributable to the jaws them selves.

I used many many Bridger 3's for years,and they are a great trap;downside is I got a number of brand new traps with crap springs and after a few weeks of negotiating I sold every Bridger trap I owned and you couldnt GIVE me one at this point.

Little business tip;either take care of your customers(who are always right,especially when they ARE right)or someone else will.

InquiringDuke;play the percentages.......use the OS jaws,or at the very least,laminate.The only "no matter what"advice I would give is that for beaver,4 coil always.(Unles of course you want to test a bunch of traps in the summer...LOL!)Testing the Montanas is the only reason I ran them 2 coiled.

Edge

[mike692]

Good post Edge.
I am going to have to get seperate traps for canines and beaver. I am completely sold on offset jaws for canines. I ran mostly offsets this year and I am convinced they hold toe caught animals better. I caught several coyotes by two toes in 1.75 Dukes with the offset and they weren't going anywhere. The reason I shyed away from offsets in the past was coon, but with the system I used this year (same as trappnman) most of my coon are picked up before they reach my canine sets.

But, getting back on subject, I've been told by many beaver trappers that offset jaws aren't the best for beaver. So I'll be buying some regular jaws for them.

[foxtail]

So they need to be four coiled? I've some #3 Herters, but they aren't exceptionally strong.

If you plan to 4 coil them, baseplate them first.
Herters are kind of weak in this spot.

I have had herters traps fold up in my hand from too much spring strength.

[fishdaddy]

do you need to change the spring pins to four coil the montanas?
fish.

[Edge]

**do you need to change the spring pins to four coil the montanas?**

Nope.Just pop em on.I have tried about 4 different helpers,they all fit,but the 1.65 springs fit real well and I can also use them elsewhere.

Unless you are wanting a center swivel on the montanas,I have not seen the need to baseplate them either;the bsaeplate is very heavy.On the first one I got,I did a pretty good destructo-test;it passed.

Edge