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Post by CoonDuke on Sept 16, 2004 18:32:11 GMT -6
I have finally faced the fact that I need to drown coon on some areas of my line. I will need to check them at night, after the fox are skinned.
Length? What do you prefer? Will 8' work in most situations?
Anchoring in the water? I will probably be anchoring to cinder blocks. I was thinking of making a loop end with a double ferrule, running the end through the block, and then stringing the other end through the loop. Any better ideas?
Anchoring on the bank? Was thinking of just making a loop end to accept a 1/2" stake. How bout a swivel instead?
Locks? I bought standard "L" locks and plan to wire the trap to the lock. I also thought about putting a lock washer on a lock so I can attach a J hook to it. There is one problem with this...if I use a J hook I need to use the whole length of my trap chain...which is 18". I think a shorter chain would be better for drowning.
Basically, I would like to know what you prefer for a drowner cable for coon.
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Post by Clefus on Sept 16, 2004 19:16:58 GMT -6
Dukie
Was makin some 6' sliders for myself...t-bar uper end....earth anchor water end..not nec. to drown though all of the time for me..
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Post by CoonDuke on Sept 16, 2004 19:44:17 GMT -6
I won't be able to anchor in the water with anything that needs to be pounded in. Too rocky.
I was thinking maybe berkshires for the land anchor. Heck, they would only have to be pounded in a few inches. If the coon would pull one, you still got a 8' length of cable with a cinder block drag on it. ;D
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Post by JLDakota on Sept 16, 2004 19:54:50 GMT -6
CD, you might consider a dog clip (like you find on cheap leashes) to your lock washer instead of the j hook and then you can snap it anywhere on the chain you want. I have bought them in 2 different sizes in boxes of a 100. 6 foot of 3/32 will usually get the job done on most of my water. It sometime kinks though. 1/8 seems to last for ever and rarely kinks. I usually use disposable on the deep end and some sort of adjustable top stake using oak stakes or T-Bars with adjustable cable/washer configuration. I personally like a tight line. One tip I would recommend considering is to put your top stake away from shore and stretch your trap and chain back towards shore so it barely reaches. Caught coon can never really get back to shore. Keeps him in the water and sooner or later he works himself down. If he can get back to shore, he sometimes will stay and never go back in the water. JL
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Post by Freebird on Sept 16, 2004 20:32:01 GMT -6
I agree with everything JL said except I would go 8 ft minimum. I used 6 footers a couple years back and they were a pain. Longer is easier to work with than not long enough. if you have too much cable, just angle it downstream, this works in even the narrowest crick.
Mike
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Post by 17HMR on Sept 16, 2004 21:31:18 GMT -6
How do they make adjustable cables? Like if you had a 10 foot one and only needed 6 foot. Jeff
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Post by fishadict on Sept 16, 2004 21:36:23 GMT -6
Cable length depends on distance to deep water. Most of mine are 10'. I angle them downstream if need be. I put adjustable loops on both ends and use a quick link to attach L lock to trap chain. I "choke up" on the chain when the water is of marginal drowning depth. With the adjustable loops, I can use any type of stake.
fa
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Post by fishadict on Sept 16, 2004 21:57:56 GMT -6
17 - use one that you caught an otter on. They make 10 footers into 6 footers perfectly.
One way is to use a washer on one end that has a hole large enough for a rerod stake. Drill holes in the washer at 1 o'clock and 6 o'clock large enough to accept the cable. Thread cable through the holes. You can put a single stop on the end of the cable to be safe. Set stakes, set trap, and pull up the excess cable. Coil excess and stuff in the mud.
I prefer to just angle the cable downstream.
fa
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Post by JLDakota on Sept 17, 2004 7:27:55 GMT -6
As has been mentioned, 6' ers are probably the minimum length with 8-10'ers needed depending on your water. I found over time that 6' usually gets it done in mine but as referenced either angling down stream with extra cable or by using an adjustable system that allows one to take up the slack cable on the top end makes extra length the way to go. Ron Marsh of Oil City, Pa. makes/markets an adjustable length slider system similar to that discribed by Fishadict (if you are a T-bar top stake guy) but with hole positions drilled slightly different. Ron is also the guy that came up with the Retrievable cable stake seen referenced on forums this year. If anyone needs his # or email PM me. JL
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Post by Timber on Sept 17, 2004 7:50:44 GMT -6
Does anyone use an inline swivel on the bottom of their drowner rigs? I saw some at one conv. or the other and when I asked why would you need that ( It was on 1/8" cable) The guy said it helps with kinking. Anyone ever use a drowner rig like this?
I have been making my drowner rigs out of 1/8" 7x19 cable. 10' long with a loop bottom for disposiable anchors or can be turned back through itself for block or drag. I use a L lock that I make and an adjustable top with an 1/8 camlock and a loop for a stack or anchor. They cost me a little more to make but last forever. The 7x19 really can twist.
I make all my drowners the same so it may be a little HD for coon but will hold up to beaver and otter well.
I also make about 2 doz rigid drowner rods a year. I take 1/2 steel rod and weld a nut about a foot up the bottom and slide a lock on and then weld a laplink on top to hold a stack or anchor. These work real well where you can't enter the water because of depth or muck. All you have to do is drive the rod into the bottom and place a stake on the top and your done. To retrieve your catch just pull top stake and pull whole rod in. Remove catch and start over again. These have held beaver but are better for coon or mink. I do a lot of my coon trapping out of a boat or truck so the weight isn't a big deal.
I wish my camera was working, I would take a pic for you.
One thing on anchoring the top. I use a disp. with 30" of 11 ga wire. I set the bottom, pull tight to the desired length, punch my disp. in and then pull up on the anchor to set it. Then all you have to do is twist the 11 ga wire throught the top loop and it's tight. I found that it is easier to get them tight with the anchor on top free.
Tim
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Post by CoonDuke on Sept 17, 2004 8:43:33 GMT -6
The adjustable cable is a good idea...but is it really needed with an anchor in the water(cinder block) that is moveable (so the cable can be stretch tight)?
I can see the benefits of the adjustable cable if you are driving in the anchor in the water.
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Post by trappnman on Sept 17, 2004 8:53:40 GMT -6
Used drowning cables rather han wire for the first time last winter- love them. Even with a moveable weight on the bottom- I like the adjusting cables- the ones I used last year, Ric (from Sullivans and here) made with cam locks for the adjustments- slick! Nickb made up some also with cam locks and sent me a few to try. I like the longer cables- 6-8 feet would be worthless for me- I get gradually drop offs in most situations- so 12-15 foot cables work the best. I took a ton of coon, an otter, several beaver including the 84lb one on them, and they came through fine w/o kinking. This was w/o a bottom swivel- most staked solid on the bottom- but the big beaver, otter were with rr plates as bottom weights.
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Post by Rob220swift on Sept 17, 2004 10:41:10 GMT -6
My cables are set up like stated in the last post with the addition of a swivel at the point the cable connects to my RR tie plates. My drowner lock to trap chain is also swiveled for beaver set-ups. I believe it helps prevent a spinner from kinking everything up.
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Post by Timber on Sept 17, 2004 10:47:23 GMT -6
Steve- How many RR tie plates do you use on the bottom?
Do you weld them together or just loop throught several?
Thanks,
Tim
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Post by Rob220swift on Sept 17, 2004 12:04:20 GMT -6
I can't answer for Steve but I use two cabled together or with a cow choker on sand or mud bottomed streams, ponds or rivers. Beaver don't move them a bit. If hard or rocky I would make it 3 or 4 plates based on what I was targeting.
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Post by Edge on Sept 17, 2004 13:35:50 GMT -6
When yu use RR tie plates,just push the loop of your drowner thru the plates and attach a hog ring or large quick link,then it cant pull back thru and doesnt screw up the cable.
I use 1/8"adjustable drowners for beaver,coon,etc.Most of mine are 10 ft so I can use them for snare extensions and sliders as well.One size does not fit all,so I have some 20 footers too.
Edge
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Post by Maineman on Sept 17, 2004 13:56:27 GMT -6
Duke knows I like to use drags for coons with the grapple started in a root bank so I don't use drowning cables often on the creeks. "But", when I do, I usually make mine 8 foot using 1/8th cable with adjustable loops on each end and either an L or a swivel attached to the cable...I usually stake the land end and use a small feed bag in the water..
I like the feed bag because its light and I can fill it with rocks I find at the site...Cinch the top with wire and attach the loop...
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Post by pacoontrapper on Sept 17, 2004 15:32:10 GMT -6
Hey Chickenduke, Would'nt you just LOVE to have 4-5 dozen railroad tie plates...  |
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Post by trapn1 on Sept 17, 2004 17:32:41 GMT -6
Has anyone used the solid rod drowners? I hav a creek that I trap w/deep water,over 6', and a very narrow strip near the bank to set trap. Last year, because I couldn't set a drowner cable every coon and the occasional beaver was waiting on me. What are your thoughts on these?
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Post by dj88ryr on Sept 17, 2004 19:01:02 GMT -6
trapn1, I have some 8' drowning rods that Coonduke made for me, they are just perfect for that kind of situation, I don't use them all the time here, but when the need arises, in just the spot you mentioned, they are perfect.
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