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Post by NittanyLion on Jan 28, 2004 13:15:29 GMT -6
Maybe we will get on a mink roll lol.
Last year I made some mink sets along a bridge wall with a stabilizer and bodygripper on the ledge that is along some of the bridges. This ledge is about the same width as a bodygripper and in all cases was above water. I had about 5 or 6 bridges that had ledges above the water line. My first thought was no mink will try to go thru the trap, but I was surprised at my results. I caught 6 or 7 mink at these locations which made them a high per-centage catch for me. This year I set up the same locations with less results. I only caught two mink in this type of set this year. On factor that may have contributed to the lesser results was the water levels were higher this year but for the most part the ledges were still above the water level. I did not do any blending either year, just the bodygripper set in the stabilizer.
Does anyone else have any experience with this type of set, and do you do some blending? What kind of results do you have.
I forgot, another reason for the less success was the sets were out of operation much more this year due to some heavy rains that flooded, and washed the trap off the ledge.
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Post by RdFx on Jan 28, 2004 13:32:59 GMT -6
Ive caught some mink that way but not anything with high %s. I use a slab of wood with coni holder tacked on. Sometimes i put sand , dirt ect up to traps a couple feet each way to trap. Ive also put foot holds or conis in water just below coni up on ledge and have had higher %s with those. Some mink are just like otters and wont go under a bridge or inside a culvert and go around and over... Ive taken alot of big buck mink in these type sets ( blind) where they go over road ect.
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Post by 17kiss on Jan 28, 2004 14:23:26 GMT -6
Used to be one of my favorite setups. All i did was run 2in thick stick from water to wall as stabilizer. A hint would be to also set bottomedge set a few feet before or after. I was fortunate ebough to come through on some sets just after a mink had taken to the water to go around conibear and came right back out a few feet past. Definite good set.
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Post by Steve Gappa on Jan 28, 2004 14:30:05 GMT -6
Those type of bridges are rare here- in fact, off hand, cant' think of any like that. I do know what yo umean- those old WPA bridges. They are being replaced by te new bridges- with pillars and rip/rap instead of walls.
So my sets along those have been limited- but if you can find them- I know mink run them.
I also don't have good luck setting up the square concrete culverts. I've read tat 220s preform better here- that mink go around the 110s.
I own a ton of 110s- but set less each year. This year I think I set out maybe 20 and have a doz or set out now. Got 1 mink in one (most years 10-15).
Not that I don't think the 110 is a good mink trap- I know it is. It must just be my setting style. I've been told that if I would just take 110s on the line, I would get in that mindset- and I have no doubt that would be true.
Next season BK and I are going to trade lessons for a day- I'll give him some coyote info and he'll show me his BE line. A fair trade.
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Post by BK on Jan 28, 2004 16:37:41 GMT -6
Let me offer my thoughts on taking mink dry in conibears. I maintain to a mink conibear is just so many sticks, he does not understand how a trap works, or what it is. The single largest reason mink refuse a conibear set ............................................Is the position of the triggers.
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Post by NittanyLion on Jan 28, 2004 16:46:55 GMT -6
BK...give me a free lesson, how do you position the trigger? This past year I used circle triggers on the bodygrippers I used for the ledge sets.
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Post by BK on Jan 28, 2004 18:12:46 GMT -6
N.L. I push my trigger wires as close together as I can get them side by side. (I once gave very serious thought to clipping 1 off completely.) Then position the trigger 1 inch off center of the trap. Any mink that passes through a 110 or 120 set like this will to some degree rub against the wire. Now....you want to know why do so many feel they need circle triggers, trip wires, monofilament and what not? They yap about mink making it through their traps,and I'm shure they do.... Their traps go off TOO HARD.
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Post by NittanyLion on Jan 28, 2004 18:55:27 GMT -6
BK........I did not try the circle trigger because of mink going thru without springing the trap. I tried it because I think some mink are reluctant to go thru a bodygripper. Not sure the circle helped, I need to try it another year under different weather conditions. l know you think highly of the bottom edge, I was wondering if you feel a mink is hesitant to go thru a bodygripper out of the water? What I mean is, with your set up pinching the trigger together, do you think many mink still refuse to pass thru?
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Post by mac on Jan 28, 2004 19:40:57 GMT -6
Bk, how do you adjust your conibears so that they fire the way you want them to, which I suspect is quite easily? And what do you treat them with? Mac
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Post by BK on Jan 28, 2004 20:05:42 GMT -6
Trappnman,.........fogive me I'm gonna talk numbers to help N.L. While trapping ponds for rats through the ice with a partner in late Nov. and Dec. we caught 68 mink in dry conibears. Trail sets, bored rat houses, and holes in the bank, ect. that year with the help of snow I got to find out what works , and what dosen't That was a long time ago, we had muskrats then.
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Post by BK on Jan 28, 2004 20:13:58 GMT -6
Mac, I paint my 110's for B.E. sets flat black, I use the same trigger configuration but center it more. Dry I use rusted and waxed 120's.
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Post by JLDakota on Jan 28, 2004 20:57:51 GMT -6
I have for alot of years favored a circle trigger config. for my 110/120's on land. Under the water I don't think it makes a difference what you do or how you config the trigger. Many years ago, I had 3 mink in 2 years that prior to expiring, chose to put their head through the ring on the end of the chain. Two in the water, both yearling males and one female in a trail set 110. The female had flipped the ring off a T bar that had too short a top on the T. It had snowed a couple inches and I luckily found a little clump that ended up being her under the snow about 3 feet from the T bar. The trigger config was a /\ and she was suitcased way back. She obviously lived a while and with her last dying gasps she put her head through the ring in the end of the chain and died. All of the above can be taken to be pure luck as it hadn't happened to me before and hasn't since but in my mind I believe they all saw the circle as a hole and possible safety. I also then rationalized (easy with my feeble mind) that they do identify with round and holes and I started conifiguring my little coni's that way. I favor BMI 110 mags (2 years on land and then they are exiled to under water)and like the extra wire available with the bell triggers to make my circle. I start all my land coni triggers for everything as I believe the shortened fire time gives me more behind the head quick kills with small to no flop circle. I also feel that the reason good snare men think mink are relatively easy to snare is that the snare loop is just another hole and if they are guided some, they choose to go right in. Finally, is the circle better then the other trigger configs referenced, maybe not, but I personally don't think I see some of the refusals tht I've seen in the snow with the circles. Jim
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Post by trappnman on Jan 28, 2004 21:07:54 GMT -6
I love numbers- the more the better... ;D I've often thought that the "hole effect" would be attractive to mink- and would like to try out those round conibears. Let me say this- I've never had a mink refuse to step in a foothold... --------------------------------------------------------------- You can only catch the same mink once...
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Post by BK on Jan 28, 2004 21:41:53 GMT -6
JLDakota, I read where you posted that once before, and I don't doubt you a bit,.. I aways wounderd where the heck you went after that. I think the single most imporant part of our methods is we don't expect the mink to rub his face on anything, or crouch down to avoid trigger wires. Under water I feel it makes little difference, I like the trigger wires as I explained as leaves don't blanket the trigger that way.
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Post by JLDakota on Jan 28, 2004 23:19:20 GMT -6
Steve, Bud Hall told me that same thing about only catching the same mink once as his rational for only setting one trap per spot. Guess that makes you both right as I see it.
BK, I agree totally with all points in your last post.
NLion, I nearly always try to camo to some degree with yellow grass (not a lot but something that breaks up the square look)or weed stems when possible and most of my land coni's are dipped a sandy brown. I like Barkers stabilizers as they allow for weaving grass and weeds to form an arch that hope isn't intimidating or restrictive but at the same time from their level looks inviting vs something they want to go around. As we all know, over time we all go with what we think gets results for us.
17Kiss, I like your before and after BE sets. Thank you, I will adopt and adapt. Jim
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Post by NittanyLion on Jan 31, 2004 11:03:21 GMT -6
Used to be one of my favorite setups. All i did was run 2in thick stick from water to wall as stabilizer. A hint would be to also set bottomedge set a few feet before or after. I was fortunate ebough to come through on some sets just after a mink had taken to the water to go around conibear and came right back out a few feet past. Definite good set. Used to be...What is your favorite setup now? Did you catch more mink on the ledge or in the bottom edge ?
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Post by dj88ryr on Jan 31, 2004 11:04:57 GMT -6
May be waiting a while Ninny on the answer, 17 is in MS getting rich trapping Otter and getting a workout putting up Beaver ;D ;D ;D
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conibear1
Demoman...
Beaver trapping
Posts: 247
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Post by conibear1 on Jan 31, 2004 18:57:39 GMT -6
I like putting out 110's and 120's near culverts in trails in the snow. A little grass to camo them and I'm down the road. I just drive along watching for old tracks entering and exiting culverts when there is snow on the ground. Then I find a narrowed down area, at least 3' from the culvert (Minnesota law ), and set up a coni on one of the new wire stabilizers. I wire off the trap, camo it with grass nearby, fence off enough on each side with dead sticks, dried thick weeds etc. and it takes mink when they come through. The only problem I have is snow plows shooting snow over the top of them. It is a fun way to trap and challenging. I haven't yet had anyone bother my close- to- the- road sets. I'm sure because of the contrast of brown fur against the white snow after a catch it will happen sooner or later. Usually the mink is twisted in grass and sticks so it isn't that noticalble.
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Post by 17kiss on Aug 19, 2004 16:29:29 GMT -6
Wow , sorry did not even see this thread when i got back. DJ , yea right getting rich LMAO. Ninny , used to be because I have not set any 110s for at least 5 years. Tghe ledge worked excellent , but like I said seen where a couple hit the water and came back out on other side of coni on ledge. I would say 70% hit the ledge. I favor the BE set alot. last season I trapped rats I put out a few dozen and was inpressed. This season am putting out as many as i have time for and leaving them out as long as possible. looks like the mink #s have been up past couple of years and I cant stand seeing all of them roadkilled.Thanks for bringing this thread back up conibear 1.
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