lake beaver vs river beaver

[T-Bar]

I did some scouting last weekend, and found a lake thats back in the boondocks off of a logging trail on public land, that has a large beaver hut on it. The lake itself is around 25' deep in spots, so it definately doesn't freeze out. It's also only around 40-50 acres in size. The stream that runs out of the lake is dammed up, and I actually had a beaver swim only 10 yards away from me while I was walking along shore, so I know they are there. I even found my first castor mounds behind the lodge, and I got some really cool pictures!!

I caught 4 beaver this spring, but they were all from a large river.

I guess my question is, what are some main differences between trapping beaver on lakes versus rivers? In all my books, they don't really stress differences, but it seems to me they would be much different animals. Trapping a dam especially is something I have never done.

Thanks for the help!

-Keith

[trappnman]

In my opinion- there isn't a lot of differences. Same sets work on both locations- just think of a stretch of shoreline as being the same- river or lake.

Having dams to set on or around (check regulations) is a bonus- but otherwise castor moinds, trail sets, channel sets, feed areas, etc- all are about the same.

[Beaverboy]

Trappin's right they're the same the only difference to me is that you walk around the pond and not up and down the river to make your sets.

[Edge]

I have found that river colonies are more tolerant of nearby relatives;moreso than lake or pond beaver.So,with that thought in mind....lake beaver would tend to be more spread out.

Edge

[Hal]

Lake beaver are more easily spooked than river beaver.

-- Hal

[thebeav2]

The only advise I can give you Is don't trap on the dam. In WI you have to be 15' from the dam with your traps.

Beav

[musher]

If the river has a good current beaver will often live in the bank as opposed to making a hut. This can make it more difficult to evaluate the population of beaver on the river.

Around here trappers often say that bank beaver have a denser fur due to their always being in dampness as opposed to being in a nice, dry hut. They also say that the fur is more "worn" due to the rubbing on the soil. Since beaver are in the water several times a day the denser fur has never made any sense to me. With regards to the dirt rubbing, I've never seen it in the auction grading!

[RdFx]

In Wisconsin it is 15 feet from dam for traps unless you have an enclosed trigger trap like a specific coon trap. If you are a landowner you can trap on the dam for damage control...... only if you are land owner.

[T-Bar]

I saw that in the regs, now that you guys mention it. Why is that in Wisconsin?

On the beaver videos I have they all trap crossovers, or they break part of the dam and put in footholds, which look like sure-fire sets.

So how do you go about setting around a dam if you have to be 15' away from it? When I looked around the dam I found beaver tracks in more than one spot in the mud, so they must check it regularly.

Thanks

-Keith

[thebeav2]

The 15' set back Is to lessen your chances of taking Incidental otter at the cross overs and dam breaks.

Castor mounds above and below the dams will take beaver. If you can find any pinch points below the dam these would be good spots for beaver with 330s.

Find the lodge or bank dens and set the entrances.


Beav

[Bogmaster]

I never did like breaking a dam and setting there.When I set for beaver,I want water levels to stay as they are.
I just returned from my spring beaver trip,all my beaver were caught in 330s and castor mounds but one.
I did catch that odd one in a small crossover,the only reason I set it ,was because it was a problem beaver for the township.
In the spring I try to avoid crossovers(which are legal in MN.)all pinch points and channel sets.
Even by not using the above sets ,I still have to turn in otter everyspring from my castor mound sets.
Tom

[T-Bar]

Ok, thanks for all of the good advice, and I think I'll stick with sets in front of the lodge entrances. Do these sets usually produce in 1 or 2 nights? Because I'll only be able to trap up there on weekends.

I wasn't able to get right up to the lodge, it's about 10' from shore, and its in about 6' of water. Are their entrances usually down deep, or towards the middle of the lodge, or just under the water?

And then finally how do you get a 330 down to their entrance in deeper water like that?

Thanks for all the help guys!! (sorry I keep asking so many questions)

ps - I plan on using our aquaview camera to take some pictures under water of the lodge and see what I can see. I'll be sure to post the pictures, if I get anything interesting.

[Bogmaster]

Keith,one of the reasons I use mainly castor mound sets:I don't have to worry about finding lodge entrances,runs,etc.
I make the beaver come to me,sure makes things easier and simpler dictating to the beaver where you are going to set than vice versa.You can gang set and clean up the majority of beaver in a weekend.
Of course,open water is needed.
Tom

[T-Bar]

Tom,

I used castor mounds this spring, and caught 4 beaver with them, but it took a week before we connected with our first one. But if you think I can catch beaver over a weekend, I'll stick with castor mounds instead of the entrances. I guess I'll just have to try it and see.

Thanks.

-Keith

[Bogmaster]

Keith,first day of my trip,I got out a couple dozen castor mound sets>they resulted in 17 beaver the next morning.This set is dynamite,and the more you use it--the better you will become at adapting it ,to where you want to set.It is the set I depend on regardless what time of year it is.All I need is open water,and beaver that need catching.
Good luck and enjoy yourself.
Tom

[thorsmightyhammer]

I use the same sets for river and lake beaver, primarily castor mounds. Imho in open water conditions there are better sets for taking beaver than setting the den and lodge entrances. About the only real difference for me is keeping in mind the current of a river, and using it to my advantage to guide the beaver into the trap.

Beaver trapping really gets to be fun for me when the lakes open, almost no water fluctuation and no raging current.

Bog, in my experince my catch will drop when the wind blows hard all night especially when running lakes. Was wondering if you have this happens as well?

[thebeav2]

Yep the old 330 castor mound set Is also my bread and butter BUT.

To be a compleat beaver trapper you need to know more then just one type of set or the use of just one type of trap. I'm sure tom would agree.

There will be times when one type of set or trap will out preform the other ones.

Beav










.

[Bogmaster]

Steve,wind definately can put the screws to a beaver catch.Those 50mph winds we had ,resulted in my lowest catch days.If I were setting near lodges,it would have had less affect.I find even on windy nights,if I am set up near a lodge,the beaver will investigate my castor mounds.
Gary,I am a believer in using whatever works for a trapper.In my case ,I haven't used footholds for beaver in many years,I never snare.By sticking to 1 tool{330s},I have come up with ways to take those shy beaver.I take footholds and snares with me every year,but they never get out of the trailer.
I try to get most new beaver trappers to start with 330s.I get so many calls from guys using footholds.Their only catches have been,toes,hair or nothing at all.As we know trap placement with footholds is critical.
It is amazing the number of those callers ,catch beaver the very first time I get them to set a 330 and a castor mound.
The 330 has made poor beaver trappers into fair beaver trappers.
The 330 has made fair beaver trappers into good beaver trappers.
The 330 has made good beaver trappers into very good beaver trappers.
The 330 has made very good beaver trappers into outstanding beaver trappers.
The 330 has made outstanding beaver trappers into---GUYS WITH DOUBLE HERNIAS<BAD BACKS<AND NUMB HANDS FROM SKINNING.
Sorry ,I get carried away so easily.
Tom

[trappnman]

I've had a funny history with 330s.

Grew up trapping beaver w/footholds. Along came the conibears- and of course had to try a few- loved em!
First used them in "perfect" places- runs, channels, etc.

Then started using them elsewhere

Bought more. Got so that I hardly ever used footholds.

Then- over the past few years- on my smaller streams- went back to using more footholds than 330s- using the 330s in those "perfect" places.

Last year- never even set a 330.

now- if I was doing more than hobby trapping beaver- I'd more likely than not have a different attitude...but with the few beaver I have, footholds do the job very well- and its more fun pulling up a drowning cable and wondering..than seeing one dead in a 330 ;D

[thorsmightyhammer]

To be a compleat beaver trapper you need to know more then just one type of set or the use of just one type of trap. I'm sure tom would agree

Gary, I agree as well that one needs to be proficient at all methods to be a "complete" beaver trapper.If one is trapping with the intention of removing a colony then he will need to know how to use all three. But I know for a fact that some pretty large numbers can be taken using just 330s and mud pies. Myself I prefer a good blind set, but I dont spend much time looking thus I use more castor sets. Also I dont have near the otter population that Tom has to contend with in the area I trap so it doesnt bother me to use more blind sets.

Maybe one day the DNR will extend the otter season to run concurrent with the beaver season saving us all some headache's.

Tom I think that the most problem newbies have with footholds is poor quality traps. Since I have gone to the newer traps with the 7.5 inch jawspread and adjustable pan tension my miss ratio is probably on an even keel with coni's. What has been key for me is alot of tension. If I had to guess it would be in the 3 - 5 pound range.