How to build snares??

[GaTrapper]

Hey Y'all,

This year I want to run a big snare line. I would be targeting Coon and beaver. Anyone have any info and pics on how i would go about building snares for them using products i can find at Lowes and such.

CJ

[coyotewhisperer]

What kind of locks are you wanting to use? All cable is not created equal I would buy it from a reputable dealer. RK660 as well as many others on here Carry's a full line of cable and aluminum stops and ferrules. Just starting out all you need is the parts for the snare, a couple pound hammer and an anvil or piece of railroad track or anything that is solid heavy steel to pound on. If i get off work early enough today I'll take some pics and walk you through it but it is really quite simple.

Jeff

[snaringamerica]

you can buy a real nice crimping tool at Lowes for about $25 or you can make your own for about $10. don't buy cable or ferrules at any hardware store, not that it's different but because it is too dang expensive. Buy from a reputable dealer, I always bought from Mark Steck aka dakotalinesnares. I will definitely check others out this year as I will be going full bore on the cable restraints for canines here in PA.

[coyotewhisperer]

Here it goes hope it helps ya.

For the demo we'll use a surelock snare which can work for beaver and coons but is probably not the best lock out there everyone has an opinion on locks and primarily now i use camlocks. So for starters we thread the cable through the lock.



after its threaded through the snare lock properly we'll put a stop on the end of the cable. Be sure to not have cable sticking out of the back of the stop as that will cause fur damage.



Now we are gonna pound that stop down using an anvil or other piece of solid steel. You don't want to flatten the stop like a pancake just bang it enough that it gets a good hold on the cable.



After the stop is pounded on with a surelock you need to put a bend in the cable at the back of the lock as shown i hold it bent and count to ten.



now go to the oposite end of your cable and slide on your whammy. I use plastic tubeing that comes off the automatic syringe guns at the feedlot. Not sure of the exact size but it fits snug on #9 wire support and thats what your looking for



slide on your snare swivel this one is homeade I'd recommend buying a good #9 Snare swivel till you get a little more expreince with snareing



Slide on your swivel washer



pound on final aluminum stop



And now go out and snare ya some coons and beavers. Now i don't want knowone saying i never helped a kid LOL



Jeff

[GaTrapper]

Thanks for the pics, it will help a lot, i printed your post out. I used some snares this year on coon and beaver and they worked well but i wanna say they had a washer type lock on them. It was just a washer bent at a 45 degree angle and they worked very well.

[robertw]

Jeff,
The tubing is a 3/16" ID.

[Kyle]

You'll save alot of money buy ordering your cable and other supplies through a trapping supply store.

[DaveLyons]

Don't know if Rally ever makes a conventions down your way. But if he does stop and talk with him. Not discrediting anyone else on this forum. But Rally will help you out. I haven't really ever dealt with anyone else. One big question only you can answer is do you want them dead or alive?? Mi laws suck so the only way I will snare is breaking the law(Go ahead throw your stones) Sometimes whats right for the animal is better then the LAW.

Dave

[TurTLe]

Do you preload your cable before you make your snare Jeff? or load afterwards?

[furman]

Years ago I built snares for my self and one year I went to big washer locks I had a terrible time with pull outs and misses. I have been gun-shy since that year on building snares.
I buy 10dz or more at a time to get a price break on snares and it don’t seem it’s worth the time to build snares your self at the price that you can build them for.

I do build my own cable downers(since it’s so easy) and I have been using anneal(spelling?) nuts for stops and they have been working good.

[coyotewhisperer]

Turtle I don't load many snares but when i do i do it afterwards.

Jeff

[bobwendt]

I use all 1/8th on beaver as they are bulls and go right thru. most are chest snared so the 1/8th gives me less hide damage and allows live cature better. on the coyotes it`s 1/8th also, simple "L" lock with a stop at 9" so I can take all my coyotes alive. I buy 3/8 inch steel nuts instead of aluminum and hammer each one on by hand with a plain old hammer and small anvil. never a failure and dirt cheap. everything but the nuts, like others said ,buy from a trapping supply dealer, whole lot cheaper. the nuts buy by the pound and like a penny each. each guy has his own method. and also most fealkers will custom make tro your specs too. last year I had 20 dozen 1/8th 7 ft live snares made up by a dealer for me about as cheap as materials. I don`t know how he did it so cheap, made maybe buck or two a dozen., my time was worth more doing other stuff so for the first time in my life I bought snares. then bought some 1/16th cat killers snares off rk dirt cheap too. guess I`m getting spoiled in my old age.

[rk660]

If you decide to use nuts instead of ferruls like Bob does, just dont pound them to smithereenes, you can damage the cable. One gripe I have with hammered nuts is you usually chip off the galvinizing coating on the cable, and they will rust at that point. Probibly not a big issue on dry snares, but I ve had failures on drowning cables that stay in water 3 weeks time per year rusting completly thru and failing in 3-5 years time I would guess. Softer aluminum stops usually wont damage the gavanizing. you can wrap your nuts in some thin sheet metal and throw on a bed of coals for a 1/2 day and soften them too to hammer easyer.

[bobwendt]

one plus of a big heavy nut is the weight hurrys the snare down once it gets bumped. no snide comments now..... speaking of which, I had a big tom last feb. in a 10 ft , 1/16th snare with a kill spring and that sucker was alive as can be caught right around the neck and had a big ring made, so he was there awhile. one of those old horse hided big toms I guess is why he wouldn`t choke down. he never did tangle as was out in the open grass. I always heard theyall die about the first lunge with a choke spring, uh uh!

[shagnasty]

i am no big snare man, but i do fairly well with a cam lock on beaver. i may switch to 1/8" cable because i have nearly lost a few with 3/32. i have lost a few with the 1/16 that is supposed to be the cats meow. matter of fact never held one in that stuff, got so disgusted that i pulled them all up, should have stuck with what i knew worked. the 3 3/32 does leave a big burn whether staked or cabled off to a tree and allowed to swim around. i guess the 1/8th will too but you can go places and catch more with a canoe and cable than you will with traps because of weight, so numbers should make up for a slightly reduced price, i suggest you take your knife i you have deadfalls and snags to portage.