|
Post by frenchman on Dec 27, 2006 7:11:49 GMT -6
Passamonte recommends changin bodygrippers after each catch for coon, saying it increases the number of coons to be taken off of a trail.
Red O'Hearn does not say anything about chaning bodygrippers in his book or video
On my line, coon density is low, and each trail seldom produces more than 2 or 3 coon. But then, I am not changing traps. I can imagine how much more work it would be, so not real keen on this, but then, if more coon, than I might re-consider...
What are you guys doing?
|
|
|
Post by Steve Gappa on Dec 27, 2006 7:27:04 GMT -6
don't have a clue either way- but IMO- Passamonte is a buffoon and what I have read by him, is kindgarden stuff at best.
The very first article I ever wrote- Snow Coon- was written in a DIRECT reply to his article telling me how coon never moved on snow.
|
|
|
Post by thebeav2 on Dec 27, 2006 9:36:03 GMT -6
I catch 100s of coon each year, I use the same traps after every catch. When I'm done the traps go Into the totes and are used next year I don't ever clean them. Coons skunks grinner's fox all run the same trails why would they shy from a trap that's caught something. I caught 5 red fox one year In 160s that had caught countless other critters. I will tell you this some coon will avoid the spot where you have made a catch but their not avoiding the trap just the location where their buddy died. Just move the set to a different location In the trail.
|
|
|
Post by thebeav2 on Dec 27, 2006 10:00:42 GMT -6
For years I poo hooed this guy that put a cover made out of woven wire fencing over his 160s. I thought he was just making sure that he wouldn't catch a dog but after seeing the catches he made I was convinced that it made a huge difference In his coon catch. Lots of coon just won't crawl through that 6x6 opening . Some times they walk around and sometimes they will crawl over. When we could use the larger 220 we didn't have all these refusals. It's real obvious when you have wet or frosty conditions, you can actually see where the animal walked around the trap. The covered trap actually gets the coon committed to being In the enclosure and It can't walk around and they can't crawl over. I have had them just rise up and toss the wire off but not enough times to worry about It. Having the enclosure's out ahead of time helps get the coon use to going through them. They are a pain to haul around and store but I just place a few dozen at a time until I get them all out. My enclosures are about 40" long or what ever a section of woven wire fence Is. I cut through the center of one opening of the fencing so I have the individual wires sticking out so I can shove them In the ground to hold the wire In place. Give them a try I think your coon catch will Increase.
|
|
|
Post by Steve Gappa on Dec 27, 2006 10:18:35 GMT -6
I know they will beav- when I used to use 220s, as you say in frost or snow, you could see the misses. Far more misses than one would guess. You can weave grasses over, but snow/rain often freezes that down. A wire cage is a little work to set up, but worth it.
|
|
|
Post by ColdSteel on Dec 27, 2006 12:03:36 GMT -6
Good pointer there Beav I too have seen some missed with 220's on trail even after I started raising them off the ground 4 to 6 inches years ago.I will say this to I have seen a lot of avoidance from otter in 220's I don't care how good I had it camoflauged and some people claim they are the best trap to use for otter not in my book.Speaking of conibears have ya'll given the wooden conipan a try yet?I was planning on ordering a dozen and see if they helped any?Looks like to me they would help a lot
|
|
|
Post by frenchman on Dec 27, 2006 12:11:11 GMT -6
We are allowed to use 220s here, and I did notice the location avoidance. Glad to hear that traps do not need re-washing or re-dipping.
Elevating bodygrippers reduces avoidance on my line, so does using larger grippers such as 280s (which is legal here).
I nafta and speed-dip all my bodygrips, and 5 red foxes in them this year. But trails go cold after a catch or two, wanted to make sure it was not the smell.
I trust the advice of those who catch hundreds of coon in bodygrippers.
|
|
|
Post by foxtail on Dec 27, 2006 12:18:40 GMT -6
That should be your first clue that it is not so.
I can not take anything seriously from some clown who advises people to use a house brick, the 4x8 size brick, as a drowning weight for coon.
Notice I said A brick, not a bunch wired together.
Plus in his vids, there seems to be the same few coon caught quite a few times. AND 25 different angles to the setup catch.
Yes, I said setup.
|
|
|
Post by Hornhunter on Dec 27, 2006 12:52:58 GMT -6
Speaking of avoidance! Quite sure I posted this pic last spring. The trap was nailed to the tree and wired so it couldn't go off. Notice how the fisher went around. Later he was going in and out with ease, Even used it for a back rest. Shows the need for a steeper, smaller tree.
|
|
|
Post by frenchman on Dec 27, 2006 16:11:00 GMT -6
cool picture of the fisher up the pole! And this is the reason I only use boxes or pails for fishers!
Anyway, I was concerned with avoidance by coon because of odors, mainly. From what I gather, smell is not the issue, but location might be. I know in otters, capture location may spook other otters.
|
|
|
Post by sRc on Dec 27, 2006 18:45:49 GMT -6
Beav-that woven wire enclosure--is it just barely larger than the size of the trap? How far do you place the trap inside?
|
|
|
Post by thebeav2 on Dec 27, 2006 19:37:23 GMT -6
I place the trap right In the middle. The wire Is just a little bigger the the size of the trap. With this enclouser you can use 220s here In WI and that gives you a bit of a edge over the 160.
|
|
|
Post by bblwi on Dec 27, 2006 20:12:57 GMT -6
So those large enclosure work ah Beav. I know Mike W uses a bunch of those also. As to more on the Passamonte change of traps after a catch. Another reason he suggested was that one could speed check faster. That is have a pre set trap ready to put in and take the critters home with the 220s on and remove them at home. Does save time but not that much in my opinion. I have caught multiples in the 160s w/o change up. I dye mine every year. I also do the holders as I want to remove as much skunk odor as I can as that is more like a baited set and I want a blind trail set to minimize domestic non targets.
Bryce
|
|
|
Post by markymark on Dec 27, 2006 20:37:12 GMT -6
I just take chicken wire and fold it down then open it and lay leaves in it. Fold it back and tie together with zip ties. They work great for snaring mink when I am getting snow. I just place it over my set to protect it and then shake the snow off. But it seems I am not getting any snow this year.
|
|
|
Post by johnthomas on Dec 27, 2006 22:54:31 GMT -6
foxtail, the brick thing was funny i agree, but not as funny as the claim of usin a coat hanger as a drag, now that was really funny. nobody i know changes traps after a catch around here, they just wash and redip once a year.
|
|
|
Post by ohiyotee on Dec 28, 2006 5:02:12 GMT -6
A baited set my not be the same as a trail set as far as aviodance but i have coon boxes that i have taken 8 or 9 coon in as many days. I have seen however on sand bars where coon have ocasionally avioded going in. but who knows why. maybe you get them the next day or 2. Maybe be not at all. Thats trapping. greg
|
|
|
Post by frenchman on Dec 28, 2006 7:27:42 GMT -6
I find that if I pick the thickest spot on the trail, the thicker the better, then avoidance seems lower (or at least, I do not notice it)
In pail or buckets, coon refuse to go in often, but unrelated to the smell of the trap IMHO. It's a different thing than trail sets for sure.
btw, changing traps for me would mean MORE work and time, not less. I carry setters, and using holders, can have the trap back in place in a minute!
|
|
|
Post by thebeav2 on Dec 28, 2006 8:36:43 GMT -6
Your right about the thick brushed In tunnel like trails. In this case the coon has no choice other then backing up. Where the wire shines is In these wide open trails that have little or no cover and If you try and cover the trap or camouflage It It sticks out like a sore thumb. You will be surprised how the wire just seems to disappear when you turn back to look at. And I very seldom put any grass over It. It's a directional thing, once the coon gets In he's committed.
|
|
|
Post by bblwi on Dec 28, 2006 10:37:19 GMT -6
I have gone to almost exclusively the thick cover or the crawl under blind trail set for coons. High commitment and catch and low domestic threat. The wire cages bring back the open areas with the lower canine domestic issue also.
Totally off subject of this but did use more 1.5 footholds this year as a % of body grippers. The more cover the better the catches there also. I use drags mostly and the cover is nice and necessary. Also have found that I am not setting with enough pan tension. I need to adjust the traps better for coon. I have used these as a rat, mink and coon in the water and have had too little tension trying to catch mink and missing too many coons.
Bryce
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Dec 28, 2006 10:54:54 GMT -6
why do you say too little tension? I run all my Duke 1.5s with zero pan weight tension- all my tension is 100% from the jaws, and with that I don't think you can get below 2- which is perfect for coon.
|
|