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Post by Stef on Aug 24, 2006 9:44:56 GMT -6
Coldsteel.. have seen many times in the past where a fox leaves 20 foot prints on the trap pattern and missed the fox. They worked the sets from behind, sides etc.... or very very close to the holes. Dug the holes, put 3 inches of dirt on top of patterns and traps will never fire with those light foxes.
Anyway... now... the foxes are in my traps.
No cap for me!
Stef
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Post by ColdSteel on Aug 24, 2006 11:04:58 GMT -6
LOL,Stef its obvious that you and I have 2 differnt styles of trapping.I know you have alot colder weather than I do which may prevent you from stepdown sets and little or no pan tension.I don't know about the 20 fox tracks in a dirt he won't step nowhere near that many times in my pattern before he is in trouble stepdown or not.I run very little pan tension as a matter of fact I catch alot of rabbits but what can be more appealing than a rabbit flopping around and another set or 2 within 15 feet ready for action
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Post by Stef on Aug 24, 2006 12:22:30 GMT -6
lol... but look... when 4 tracks, some toes touched the pan and the traps did not fired..cost me furs.
Without a cap ...they are dancing inmy traps Stef
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Post by Steve Gappa on Aug 24, 2006 14:43:24 GMT -6
put 3 inches of dirt on top of patterns and traps
I think that solves the riddle- I never use more than 1/2 inch of dirt.
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Post by Stef on Aug 24, 2006 14:45:43 GMT -6
No Steve.. me too Its the fox who dug the hole and dumped 3 inches more of dirt on top of traps...LoL
No flipped traps... just a miss
Stef
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Post by trappnman on Aug 24, 2006 15:04:20 GMT -6
Oh..LOL--I was thinking..boy- 3" of dirtover pan....hoo boy...
maybe its the lure you use........ ;D
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Post by ColdSteel on Aug 24, 2006 15:14:41 GMT -6
I just can't see how a fox can stand in front of a bait hole an dig that much without being caught unless too much pan tension.Maybe I am missing something here or maybe its because I mostly catch dumb grey and red fox but I can't see where the cap hurts me unless we have a rain then I am in trouble but then again so are alot of people
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Post by Stef on Aug 24, 2006 16:41:48 GMT -6
I told you.. the trapper cap...LoL Wax paper now and no more problem!
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Post by ColdSteel on Aug 24, 2006 17:43:14 GMT -6
To each his own I guess.I have used wax paper and toilet tissue also but prefer the cap
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Post by foxcatcher1 on Aug 25, 2006 1:10:18 GMT -6
Hell I don't use either some times. I use Charlie Dobbins method very very little pan travel and very little dirt under pan. I DO use wax paper on most sets though. I thought the trappers cap would be a good thing to try but now I'm second guessing. Might just stick to my usual methods.
Don
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Post by Stef on Aug 25, 2006 6:47:22 GMT -6
yes, stick with the wax paper ;D ;D ;D
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Post by ColdSteel on Aug 25, 2006 7:01:06 GMT -6
No,Go to the trappers cap ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Post by walkercoonhunter(Aaron L.) on Aug 25, 2006 7:45:17 GMT -6
i dont use anything over my pan either on 1.75's...if i was useing big steel i would use a pan cover but not with my small traps...
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Post by Stef on Aug 25, 2006 9:31:20 GMT -6
With peat...nothing wrong with that but with waxed sand.. I need a pan cover.
Stef
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Post by walkercoonhunter(Aaron L.) on Aug 27, 2006 18:41:56 GMT -6
yes stef i can see why you would use something with waxed sand
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Post by trappincoyotes39 on Aug 28, 2006 13:28:44 GMT -6
I pack my traps in very tight and want zero movement at all. The only free area is over the pan. Some say small traps need guiding and if your working in a smaller confined area, then it only make sense to use guiding for any size trap in my mind.
A larger trap with more metal in the ground up's your chances of a coyote stepping on something other than the pan with the first step, until you add guiding!!! So those that don't guide larger traps and don't pack then in tight then I would feel more apt for that trap to be detected by the coyote.
That can change with amount of dirt covering to a degree, but in my wide open windy area all traps get at least 3/4" or more covering and packed tight then guiding to the pan. As Wiley stated you can direct them and know how far away they will be according to the backing size and height and where you put your lure and bait at the set in accordance with the backing. With the traps I use steel screen shows no added benefit to me and a solid packed trap serves me much better than one laid in the bed and sifted over.
I have had antelope tracks, jack rabbit tracks on the jaw portion of the pattern and not have the trap moved in the bed, if I where to light pack or no pack the traps I would have issues and moved traps I'm sure, also with light dirt coverings, I wonder how many coyotes I catch after that goat or jack visited first and still had a nice stable setup waiting on him. Other wise brush out the tracks and continue on. No need to re-bed the majority after such an incident.
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Post by ohiyotee on Aug 29, 2006 6:24:45 GMT -6
Cold steel ''I run very little pan tension as a matter of fact I catch alot of rabbits but what can be more appealing than a rabbit flopping around and another set or 2 within 15 feet ready for action '' Sorry but to me catching incidentals that could be avoided is poor management not to mention a waste of my time remaking the set. I would rather have that trap with the rabbit in it ready for the coyote or coyotes when they come bye. I would also rather save the rabbit for a feb. day when the wind is low, about 30 degrees, party sunny with about 4 '' of snow, and a good beagle....greg
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Post by Bob Jameson on Aug 29, 2006 7:13:19 GMT -6
I ,like tc37, have always found great merit in solid dirt packing for all of my trap sizes. Outside and inside the jaws, adequate bed excavation size... I have used the mitlying trap bedding tool for many years and it has made my system extremely efficient with no concerns regarding my set construction and the trap stability. If an issue arises it isn't due to an insecure trap or soft approach.
During my early years as a trapper I had many problems as we all did with bedding, tippy traps,too large of a trap bed for the size trap you are using, too much lose dirt etc. From all of this I have learned and realized that not securing your trap will haunt you many more times then not. Too much lose dirt many times will initiate a natural curiosity digging response at the point of bedding if the bed area is too large and too soft in relation to the surrounding area.
I have observed others over the years that are good trappers that just do a slight wiggle of the trap in the bed, cover and go. It works for them. But I have found this method wont fly well for me and I teach that solid bedding and packing is the best course of action as a standard rule of thumb.
Same sort of thought runs with those that run no pan tension and those that do. I wouldn't think of setting any canine or cat trap without pan tension. About the only traps that I dint adjust tension on is mink and rats.
I have experienced several determined pre mature fired traps over the early years due to a generous dirt trap cover that collects moisture from heavy rain and creates a downward pressure that is more magnified with the addition of a pan cover increasing the surface area and pressure area that can fire your trap.
My many years have taught me well as to the merits and benefits of solid trap bedding and minimal lose dirt over and around the immediate trap bed area.
Solid , consistent, uninterrupted ground firmness from the approach area to the immediate trap bed site has caught many an educated, timid or pattern shy animal over the years.
Good post tc37. You and I share many things in common with respects to our thoughts, experiences and trap line habits. Must be that parallel learning curve that is often referred to .
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Post by ColdSteel on Aug 29, 2006 16:11:17 GMT -6
Ohiyotee a quote from one of my favorite movies"Are you crazy or just plain stupid"Lets ask any canine trapper this question have they ever caught any birds or rabbits or grinners for that matter they are all incidentals aren't they.Heck I get good use out of rabbits they are good eating plus I can use the fur for my cat sets.I deal mostly with the VERY light footed grey fox and I am not going to crank up pan tension to miss a gray fox just so I can catch a worhtless coyote
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Post by ohiyotee on Aug 29, 2006 18:18:03 GMT -6
I used to trap with little or no pan tension also and caught alot of rabbits ,small possums, crows. etc. I decided to put pos-i-trips on my traps and have eliminated them completly. But the main reason was to eliminate toe catches , in works wonderfully as it is very rare that i have a toe caught yote. as for the gray fox we have them here too and they are not a problem. With just 2 1/2 pounds of tension you can eliminate the above and still catch the grays. I'm not telling you what to do just what i do . My time on the line is valuable to me and i want to keep moving in a productive direction and not spend extra time remaking sets when it can be avioded and know that when i get a catch it will be there when i show up. greg
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