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Post by conibear on Oct 13, 2005 17:35:39 GMT -6
Do you guys shot your coyotes at the set or catch pole them and move away from the set and shot them. I watched JC Conners trapping videos and he catchpoles his coyotes and moves them away from the set and shoot them. Just wondering if it really matters.
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Post by bobwendt on Oct 13, 2005 18:32:29 GMT -6
no problems with blood at the set from my experience ,other than a mess, but I prefer skinning bloodless coyotes so noose them and kill by chest compression. the pups of the year I can break their necks like a fox. one thing I can tell you does NOT work is a 220 on a coyotes head. great on coons but had coyotes running the back of the truck all day before with 220`s on their heads, I mean good strong 220`s right behind the jaw and ears and level ,and even vise gripped tight. so don`t do that anymore, in fact one try was the first and last at that method.
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Post by ColdSteel on Oct 13, 2005 18:41:37 GMT -6
I have never got the hang of the chest compression stuff.It works for me just takes too much time.I must be doing something wrongI tap the animal on the head with a shovel remove from trap and pull out of circle and put a 22 short through the ear very little blood if any and alot quicker for me than standing on his chest waiting to expire
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Post by bobwendt on Oct 13, 2005 18:45:18 GMT -6
my chest compression takes 2-3 seconds at most. not subtle pressure over time, but explosive instantanious lightning bolt type compression.
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Post by ColdSteel on Oct 13, 2005 18:49:56 GMT -6
;See I knew I was doing something wrong.Do you do a hard stomp or do you stand on the animal.We are talking about right behind the front shoulder arent we?I guess you have done this so much you could do it in your sleep>Hell It takes me a little time to put a catch pole on one hell of alot more time than the round shovel process
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Post by Bubber on Oct 13, 2005 18:54:47 GMT -6
I shoot them in the lungs on site. I usuallly don't have much blood, if I do I just scoop it up and toss behind whatever I am using as backing. I use to thump and use chest compressions untill I caught a great big male that wouldn't go down. I still have the boots to prove it. I have shot them ever since.
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Post by bobwendt on Oct 13, 2005 19:19:58 GMT -6
i`m a littler feller, 150lbs, and never seen one yet that didn`t do the eyeball roll and tail twirl with one well placed compression, and I mean fast. you see the eyeball roll and you take off the snare and go about your business at the remake. blood at or near the set is not my issue, I just don`t want to wash hides or have a blood bath at skinning or blood filled ears and pools on the shed floor.
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Post by 17HMR on Oct 13, 2005 19:28:19 GMT -6
I thump them on the nose and grab a back foot and give them another 2 swift and hard wacks to the throut under the jaw, and a tail crank instantly, no blood. Learned that here from some one cant remember who, but works great.
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Post by JWarren on Oct 13, 2005 19:30:42 GMT -6
Chest shot with .22 cb is what i'm using, works good. Never any blood, head shots garantee maximum blood. PS- you better pack a lunch and have a pocket full of ammo if you want to head shoot coyotes with the cb or even a HV short.
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Post by ColdSteel on Oct 13, 2005 19:32:28 GMT -6
I could not agree with you more on the blood it does make a mess.I was making a mess for sure shooting long rifle 22 but the shorts are pretty good.I will keep your method in mind and try it again this year.I guess you could say I am from the old school I still put a bullet in skunks>I have found a market for some in the round this year at 4 bucks though so may go to your method Bob
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Post by bobwendt on Oct 13, 2005 19:33:11 GMT -6
17, guessing you are dislocating the neck and spinal separations? what do you see under the skin at skinning, I mean can you tell if the neck is broken? tail spinning suggests spinal separation and then maybe suffocation from no chest movement. what is your choice of a whacker? I know this stuff sounds gruesome to some, but I think we should train ourselves in fast humane killing methods as the chest compression, and neck deals like 17 does, and if we can get a cleaner higher dollar hide too, that respects the animal more also.
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Post by 17HMR on Oct 13, 2005 19:54:16 GMT -6
Bob, Not sure what is going on under the tissue but I will cut in and look this year. I use about a 40 inch maul handle that I grind grooves in the end I grab with a grinder so there is no slipping and I alway hit with the narrow side of the handle. It takes a little pratice but works great when you got it down.
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Post by ColdSteel on Oct 13, 2005 20:07:31 GMT -6
You also can't be heavy handed on the thump method either or you will end up with a crushed skull or a bloody mess.I use to be heavy handed myself.Going to tell a short story here.Pulled up to my set one morning had a pretty grey fox got out grabbed the shovel and thumped him.The fox looked dead so I took him out of the trap and threw him to the side.While remaking my set I looked over at the fox and he was standing there looking at me.I had my pistol on my side so I pulled it out easy about that time the fox broke out in a dead run across the field I emptied the clip on my ruger 22 pistol and you guessed it no fox .He must have been hard headed like some humans I know because he run a couple hundred yards across that field and looked like he had never been hit with a shovel ;D
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Post by dj88ryr on Oct 13, 2005 20:08:06 GMT -6
Try the maul handles that are made of fiberglass, they are heavy, easy to hold on to, as they come with a molded on handle, used one up in NH for years on coyotes, I believe I left it behind the shed door when I moved....
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Post by trappnman on Oct 13, 2005 20:35:40 GMT -6
I've tried all the methods, and for me personally the 1 shot up and between the eyes does the trick. No fuss, no bother, no nothing. Blood- some, but let them drain out while remaking the set. Washing is part of the game anyways.
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Post by JWarren on Oct 13, 2005 22:19:56 GMT -6
I don't wash anything unless I have to. I especially don't want blood on bobcats because the fluff you lose after washing. Even the slightest thing causing a cat to go down a lot or two can cost several hundred $$. I don't want to carry a catch pole all over the hills either.
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Post by Mallard on Oct 14, 2005 5:51:59 GMT -6
I do the same as Steve, with a .22 between the eyes + 1" up, in line with the neck. I remove them from the set area and let them drain out, head down, while I remake. At the end of the line I have a nice little spring creek that I stop at and wash/ brush all the blood off the noggen. No biggie for me, just haven't been trained any other way, so for now it's also my most humane method.
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Post by bobwendt on Oct 14, 2005 6:17:13 GMT -6
jwarren is right, washing coyotes is great , but washing a cat is the worst thing you can do. I used to wash cats till I learned better. You wash the "goodness" right out of them and they get flat and loose their luster.
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Post by td on Oct 14, 2005 6:36:11 GMT -6
I was always kind of under the impression that washing bobcats didn't really help, but it didn't really hurt anything either. Maybe it's easier to see the difference in the high end cats. I only wash the ones that are real dirty or bloody, which is rare on mine, but we buy some that need it. If I wash, it seems like I have to comb them more than normal to make them look decent.
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Post by bobwendt on Oct 14, 2005 7:12:53 GMT -6
cats are an item , if hi enders, that things like a 1/2 hr with a pressure air hose, and little things not worth it on other furs, can really pay off big. you can`t tuern a 100 sow into a 500 dollar tom, but you sure can turn a 350 dollar cat into a 500 dollar cat, or you can wash that 350 dollar cat and turn it into a 200 dollar one. I`d say you`d be better off to dry clean a cat after dried than to ever get soap or water on him.
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