Using Drags correctly

[Maineman]

I typically don't use drags for my K9 sets because most of my sets are in the open and not close enough to cover to make it worth attempting...I am curious as to how you bed the drag at your set...Specifically a dirt hole but ANY set where you're bedding a trap under ground.

In the past, I've dug deep holes, burried the chain and drag, added dry-dirt, then bedded my trap on top of the drag but this made for a large pattern and seemed tough to bed...(Is this the best method?) I've heard guys tell of simply bedding the trap and letting the chain stick out with the drag thrown behind the set, but this seems like trouble to me...(exposed trap parts)

I use drags for coons often, so this topic is directed at using the 2-prong grapple drag like Clefus (or anyone for that matter makes) and specifically on Fox and Coyote...

Dave Z

[Wackyquacker]

"Specifically at dirt holes"...these are the only type sets I bury the drag under the trap. Reason being is simple I use relatively big hoes with a large dirt pattern to attrack the critters and digging a hole big enough for my drag is not a hugh problem. At flat sets I scratch out a "just big enough" trench for my chain off to the side and away from my backing and bury / blend the drag there. In some rocky areads I lay the chain out and cover / camo with stones. I do not leave the drags an chain lay exposed if for o better reason than theft.

[vttrapper]

Same as wacky

frank

[yota]

just bout the same as wacky

[Rob220swift]

Same here too and sometimes the ground dictates whether you can bury is even a smidgen.

[skidway]

I don't have digging problems so my drag and chain are buried under the trap. First the drag goes in and a good layer of dirt is added and the chain is coiled around on that layer. Another layer of dirt then I bed the trap and blend in for flat sets. Not a problem at dirt holes. The only time my drag and chain are left out of the bed is when there's snow on the ground to cover it. Most of the time we get snow before the ground freezes very far down so it works pretty well for me.

[trappnman]

Does anyone have any "special" techniques regarding placement of drag, trap to make sure it doesn't get bound up or become ineffective at the start?

To get it "started" right? Or doesn't it matter.?
confusing way of putting the question, but you understand...

[Edge]

"Does anyone have any "special" techniques regarding placement of drag, trap to make sure it doesn't get bound up or become ineffective at the start?"

It aint special exactly,but I make sure there is *some*dirt over the grapple,and the chain is coiled,so there is little chance of the grapple getting hung up on the chain,thiat makes for a very LONG drag trail.

If i cat bury the drag,I jsut give it a pitch,same as in snow,I may cover it somewhat,but if covering it makes the location"busy"I leave it.

I dont trap fox much,but I have used the grapple for backing on fox;not the whole drag above ground,but part of it.

Edge

[Wackyquacker]

I dig out the "bed" for the drag, hammer the "down" point into the ground to lower the drag as far as possible in the bed and serpentine the chain along the length of the drag shaft.

Most critters seem jump back when caught. They hit the end of the chain and the war starts. USUALLY you don't have problems from this time on...relative to hooking the chain with a point.

I perfer welded machine chain asoppposed to twin loop ...its "limperer" and has weight to keep the drag down and marking.

[Edge]

It is much limperer,no doubt.i use #3 machine chain,I dont believe trin loop has any wise application in canine trapping.

Edge

[Maineman]

Great replys guys...Thanks...

I'm looking forward to using drags in a couple select locations this year...I'll let ya know hoe it works out...

Dave Z

[Cliffy]

I just toss the drag in the weeds, the chain is buried going passed the dirt hole.

If the k-9 wants to dig to expose the chain it is basicly working the dirt hole and (with proper guiding) should already be stepping on the pan .

I use them where the backing is large and or thick so an approach from the rear is not an option for the k-9.

Small and sparse backing in the open gets a short chained trap double staked or earth anchor.

Don't catch lots of k-9's but I've never had the chain dug or seen a refusal (in the snow) that I felt was due to the exposed drag. Don't really trap enough to say these are facts, just a few rookie thoughts.

I also make sure there is no slack chain on or near the drag itself, but then my drags are almost 20 pounds so it really wouldn't matter LOL.

Cliffy

[woody]

Cliffy could you get a pic posted of one of them drags ;D I think they would qualify as a staking system. How far have you had an Ohio yote pull one do you still use a dozer to get them in place ;D enquiring minds wants to know ;D woody

[vttrapper]

Machine chain all the way.

To get the drag started right,,

When burying he drag the drag gets covered and packed first, then the chain then the trap. Chain is coiled around the outside perimeter so I have soft dit where the trap goes.

When heaving it into the brush, I attempt to make sure the first foot or 2 of drag chain is straight away from the drag and where the drag is placed is thick, as in small saplings, brush, etc.
frank

[trappnman]

Ok- this question needs to be asked- how many have lost coyotes (or any animals) on a drag?

Why?

[Wackyquacker]

For how long?

[Timber]

I lost one on a drag last year and it was probably a fluke. He pulled the drag and chain through about 200 yds of heavy timber and brush and out on to a 900 acre windswept lake. I turned the dog loose on him and followed with the snowmobile for a while before we lost his tracks and scent. I circled the entire lake looking for the place he would have hit the shore line but never found hide nor hair of him or my trap.
On another note one time I found one of my traps hanging from a tree with a coon in it hanging upside down. I don't know if he climbed the tree and then tried to jump and got hung up or if someone killed him and hung him in the tree for me to see. Strange.

I don't run many drags, maybe 10%, but other than the coyote above I can't think of losing any animal that was caught, due to the drag. I have had the drag and chain tangle and had to have the dog follow it and find it but usually they are pretty near to the set.

A dog sure helps, some of the areas I trap are so dense and thick I have walked right by a coyote and not known he was there until the dog started to go nuts.

Tim

[Wackyquacker]

I have lost a bunch of drags ...tempoarily at least. But I have lost only one for ever, almost two. The lost was to a theif and I presume it had a coyote in it which got too close to the road...but I can't say for certian because it snowed, thawed a bit and snowed again. I have been thinking on drags and coyotes and I'm pretty sure I have tracked on to find an empty trap but can't place it.. I have had living h#$% finding some that a deer got into and have found one or so in trees empty...most likely a toe caught cat. These temporary losses and long trains have caused me too my final set up as I mentioned above...longish chains too really long chains and Wimberly plows. Going to this system and applying my hard earned common sense I just don't have issues much at all. If you haven't tried Wimberlys and have the occasional long trail try em you may be very surprised. I run well over 100 drags clsoe to 150 .

[skidway]

None so far but I've had a few go quite a bit farther than I prefer.

[vttrapper]

I have lost no animals when dragging. Never tryed wimberlys but have heard they are very good. I make my own out of rerod or flat stock. There is good draging areas where i trap so the coyotes or whatever don't go to far.

frank