coon on land

[trappnman]

A lot of people think that the only successful way to trap coon on land is to use either a conibear or a snare.

Many trappers find way too many problems in trying to hold coon on land. Many trappers would have more pullouts than con, thus the old saying "don't give a coon anything to pull on or he's gone" came about.

And thats true to a degree- a poor trap will allow coon to pullout- but many times its not the trap- its how it was set.

As has been noted elsewhere, coon often root and "dig" at a set. In fact- I'd say that they do it more so than not on land- and that's the main cause of "pullouts". A poor catch leads to pullouts.

The cure-Two things help- 1) using types of modified stepdowns is a big help- but if thats not possible, there's another tip that will help 2) simply spread a thin layer (1/2 inch or so) in a BIG pattern before the set. This allows the coon to satisfy the digging urge before the set-

Another factor many don't consider is simply the size of a coons foot. A fully spread out back foot can simply span the width of a trap. Here a good tip is to place a stick about the size of a pencil outside the trap jaw next ot the dog- have it sticking up 3-4 inches. More won't hurt. This guide directs the foot off off the dog area- and really reduces misses.

And while we are on coon- lure, lure, lure. The concept that coon are always hungrey I think applies to seasonal coon- not mid winter and later fall coon. Those coon can be very finicky- and while the wil smell subtle lures- those lures won't pull them at this time of year. Strong lures and plenty of them.

[RdFx]

The stick trick is a big one with trapping coon and helped me years ago when i started using it in getting good pad catches. I would say my take increased by 25%. The larger dirt patterns are a thing ive used and it helps even on canine sets. Finicky coons are a fact of coon trapping in latter part of season. The loud lures are a definate fact and not only one as coons are like people , differant tastes ect

[trappnman]

continue from Welcome thread....

the theroy was that a coon could not distingish the source of very loud odors, at least at times. To counter this- he suggested visually "loud" sets- that is sets a coon would see for a long ways.

And I agree with the need for visuals- but always attributed it to another reason- the lack of interest that coons had during winter- so you needed a combo of a strong lure AND a visual- pipe, large dirtpattern in leaves, whatever.

So this made me think- I never thought that before. Was he right? Well, I'm not sure. Coon have good noses- very good noses. Are they so good that they are overpowered by odors at times, thus confusing direction? Don't know. I tend to think not- but he could be right. Its something to think about.

I know coon can find sweet corn from miles away on a good night. So definitly a good nose. But not as good as a canines- the shape, height of animal, etc prove that. So a good nose but not an excpetional nose.

I'm still thinkin...

[CoonDuke]

Gappa, without sounding like an azzkisser...

Why the heck don't you write a book or do a video about land coon trapping? Late season coon trapping? Upland coon location choice?

If there are any experts in the field of dryland coon trapping, you have to be near the top.

Now that you have Lori doing all the trapping LOL...you have time to make a video!! ;D

[dj88ryr]

I hear next year, Lori is doing all the skinning too!!

[Steve Gappa]

The trouble- and the good thing- about learning the hard way- is you learn or give up. I didn't give up.

I think the reason I developed whatever system I have on dryland coon is simply because I keep after them.

And I have the time to wait things out- an important part of dryland coon trapping.

Ah CoonDuke- I know a little about a lot- but I wouldn't mind giving a dtyland coon demo with footholds at the convnetion if theri awas any interset. If nothing else- we can make it part of the Canine Day.

Lori skun out about 6 muskrats- just enough, as I told her, so she can do them if she has to. She likes to handle canines and likes mink and rats- plus washes the coon and canines- so I can't complain if she doesn't want to skin.

Oddly enough- I thought she'd love water trapping over land trapping. Not so. What wast he deciding factor- too wet and cold!

She's got that right!

[fish]

ive caught 15 coons this year 3 this mourning at first i had a lot of problems with fliped traps and pullouts so i set my trap about 2 inches below ground level and packed it solid it really helped but i still loose some with toe catches.
fish.

[Steve Gappa]

you got it fish- that 2" was a nice little stepdown. Add the guide stick- like rdfx says- your % go up overnight. I mentally kicked myself because I read about using such a guide many years before I tried it.

Another good set is make your dirthole between two branches of a downed log. Make it tight against the main art of the log- and put the dog out away from the log and add the guidestick- almost ensures a deep pad catch.

In water, a good trick is to add the guide stick- then place a few softball sized rocks along one side of the trap- opposite the guide. Make sure the coon can't tip them on to the trap, but this arrangement again makes the coon step DOWN.

Make sure your dirtholes are deep and fairly horizontal for coon- or they'll work it from the top side more often than not. Putting a set up against a basketball sized rock for exmple, will have the coon climb on the rock more than work the front......trappnman

[surshot]

lol Steve remember to warn the new guys that if they use that favorite log set of yourn that ifin they get a skunk who likes to dig they gonna have BIG problems, been there done that ;D ;D ;D surshot

[Wright Brothers]

Something that helped me with pullouts was to use a drag instead of solid stake. Not the metal ones but a log or large green hard sapling like iron wood, never ever killed a prize hardwood. With a long chain the coon would have give in the anchor and couldn't get a good pull, and he would tangle in saplings and have something to chew. I never had much faith in metal drags but will make some for use in the thicker areas, seems they would be faster to set. Do offset jaws work okay for coon? I like the offset idea but fear the coon would pull out more often. Been tempted to use 160s but don't want trouble with bird and bunny hunters.

[Steve Gappa]

skunks...learned not to bury one where a trapped coyote could get to it...

polecat... congrats....you are the first one to open up a can of worms.

Offset for coon or not? That is indeed the question.
I'll say this- I wil argue until I fall down that IN WATER- forget about it. I trap a lot of coon on slide wires- and 1 or 2 toe catches are the norm. With offsets- all you would be doing is resetting snapped traps.

But on land... I'm still on the fence. I have no doubt that you WILL lose some coon- but with bigger offsets like #2- how many? I did catch a fair amount of coon in my #2 offset laminated Bridgers- the higher catch position was why.

I would say- if coon are your #1 goal- No- definitely not offsets.

But if ON LAND you are primarily after canines but will take any coon- then you might not be handicapping yourself too much.

Don't bet the farm on what I just said- but I'm taking the gamble and adding a few more #2 offset Bridgers to my line. for next year. I really like my 1.75 Dukes- but those darn 4 coiled #2 Bridgers just look like a coyote trap.

[Drifter]

Did the Bridger #2 offsets this season . I did baseplates and 1/8 in laminations in and out to make jaw width about 1/2 in total width also added JC Connor shock springs . I did replace the factory springs with music wire but didn't 4 coil them . Night latched em and set pan tension in and around 2 lbs .

They did hold the larger coon well as well as coyote but did loose a few smaller coon . Just how they worked for me .

Drifter

[Steve Gappa]

Hi Pete- long time no see.

I think you about summed it up- and upland coon are day in and day out the bigger coon anyway.

[coonwhacker]

I used the 1.65 bridger offsets this year. Tried the big dirt patern and the stepdown methods. I did not try the stick method as described instead I used dirt clods, stones or whatever looked natural. I had alot of pullouts. not misfires just pullouts I could tell by the catch circle that it was in the trap for a good 5-10 minutes. is there a better way to use the offsets? should they be modified? or just steer clear of offsets?
mike

[mattduncan]

i've got a?somtimes i get a high catch above the pad on coon can anybody tell me why this happens dont like to see it and it does'nt happen real often but i'd like to know why it does

[coonwhacker]

I would have to say that the coon was really committed to stepping in your trap. I get that sometimes. heck thats the only way I could get the 1.65 offsets to hold.
mike

[Steve Gappa]

I'm thinking the bigger trap is the secret. not offsets set for coon- but a little bigger trap in an offset model set for coyotes. The high grip is what holds them- and the offsets & laminations, according to reports- keep foot/leg damage to a minimum.

[coonwhacker]

maybe steve is right. I caught a coon in a #3 set for beaver this year. no damage whatsoever,
mike